Finally got the ok for a Supercharger

That's all you got ...Nothing about the new Supercharger....NOTHING...your killing me and glad you made it home safe

 

1000% worth it! I'll type up my final cost and everything about it tomorrow - got hit with a few little things. National Speed was great, absolutely no complaints aside from wish it only took 2 days instead of 2.5 lol. Couldn't have asked for a better experience to be honest. Still letting it all sink in that it's supercharged lol. I did get almost 17 mpg on the way home which was nice.

Drive home was boring as it was just cruising at 75 mph for 250 miles lol. All highway.

 

Figs engineering has the new maggy instock apparently

 

Great news everything worked out can't wait for your write up, heading up there Friday to iron out some things and get a final price..see if they can discount it better than the original 500 off price. I'm about 190 miles from them

 

Who was your contact at National Speed and your installer if you don't mind.

 

First Contact - Jordan in NC (only talked to Jordan to put down the initial deposit - after that it was all Tim)
2nd Contact - Tim in VA
Installer - Jerzy

 

Thanks I appreciate it

 

So here's everything - figured I'd just lay it all out incase anyone else searches for info on national speed or the process - again it went very smooth and would do it all over again.

National Speed

I got stage 1 package listed on their website - Magnuson TVS 1900 with Radium Catch Can and Tuning (catch can is not included on this package)

Total Cost — $11,202.78 vs first estimate sent to me on 7/10 $10,731.63


6/29 - sent email via websites contact us section

6/30 - Jordan from NC office reached out to set up phone call

7/3 - have phone call with Jordan - told me total price and went over what to expect, etc. Said he’d give me a few days to decide since it’s a lot of money - estimated install time is 2 days

7/10 - texted Jordan to say I’m in - paid deposit (basically $7,xxx for supercharger) - this is when I asked and added the catch can to my install.

7/17 - Jordan texted me saying Magnuson raised supercharger price $500 and they would eat some of it — added $276.49 on my end

7/20 - Tim from VA office texts me

7/21 - Phone call with Tim confirming Date of 8/14 - and new estimated install time is 2.5 days - booked hotel (Residence Inn - no complaints - 1 mile from the shop, very good Mexican place across the street and a crunch fitness that had a free 3 day trail so I could still workout)

8/7 - I texted Tim to confirm we’re good for next week - we are

8/8 - I texted Tim asking if I can get the new Maggie TVS 2650 — was told no

8/13 - Drove from South Jersey to Richmond VA - took 4 hr and 45 minutes — traffic was bad (should be 4 hours straight)

8/14 - Dropped truck off at 8:15 - Tim took my keys and walked over the process. They give you a shared google drive folder with pictures/videos of drop off, install, and dyno (as of this moment no pictures of install)

8/16 - Showed up at noon (check out was 11 am at hotel), they were on lunch until 1:15, sat inside. Got my dyno print out then. Tim said all that was left was final walk through, refuel, test drive, and I’d be on my way by 2/230. I left about 2:45. I did keep all my old parts. Drive home was eh, first 2.5 hours DC and Baltimore traffic was bad. After that it was smooth, zero traffic, cruising at 70-75. I did notice my scanguage 3 coolant temp, and trans temps were all a littler higher. I think coolant was 196-203 (I usually am always dead set between 196-198 before) and trans did get up higher to 230 before dropping back to 210ish. MPG was 17 which is higher. I’m usually 15/16 when crushing on flat land like that.

Overall Experience - Fantastic. National Speed was great to deal with, communication was phenomenal. Jordan and Tim would answer every time I texted or emailed. Truck was given back just as, if not, cleaner than when I dropped it off. I would not hesitate to go with them again. The 4 hour drive is the only bummer. They did give me an RTD device so if I happen to get a check engine light I can send them the info. They can adjust the tune and then send it to me to upload myself to clear the light. Tim said he’d call and walk me through the whole thing. 10/10

****dyno video too large to upload

Yes I have some of that foam ripping from when I had squirrels chew through my wire harnesses - and I keep my license plate in the windshield because I don't have drilled holes on the bumper - NJ requires it on the front but 3 years no issues knock on wood.

****** UPDATE 8/21 -- I received all my install pictures on the google drive there are 28 pictures attached to the folder *********

 

Great write up and transparency.

That is cool that they shared an RTD with you. When I got my Stage 1 Harrop they forgot to attach one of the lines and I kept getting a CE while cruising. I wouldn't have known what the issue was without my Scan Gauge. Their QC has improved significantly since then. I've had zero issues with them since then.

I like that they share build progress pictures and videos with you during the process. Especially if they hold your truck for longer periods.

As to overrunning on budget that is one thing I would say for others to plan for incase shit pops up. My first two work ups were below budget my last one I had my transmission jizz all over their dyno (popped a fitting from the transmission thermostat). Unexpected shit happens but they communicate before hand if issues need to be rectified.

 

Thanks for posting that! I have a few local people interested in buying my s/c, and having me help them install it. Good to know what the charges look like!

 

$700 is also right around what OTT charged me for a custom tune

 

ppfft....I dropped large coin on HPT for my recent 2nd tune. $700 is a steal

it had the trans tune in it as well....still...HPT credits, dyno & shit...$2k.


and my fvckin' boost guage is whacked. I have to push the molex in the back to get it to work.


I did a WOT today coming back from the body shop (estimate)....man, the Tundra can make some sexy noises.

 

@WinterWarlock21 and @19PlatinumCrew something to keep in mind is your displayed MPG may not be correct if they rescaled your injectors and if you have different than stock tires.

Best way to determine your actual MPG is to hand calculate or using something like a Scan Gauge after you've calibrated it via their Fill up procedure. Mashing the skinny pedal will generally throw the automated calculations off in some cases but Scan Gauge has been accurate to within 100th of actual MPG so far.

I'm been getting ~14 City even on short trips. Hwy MPGs varies for me since I'm usually flying over the optimal 55 to 65 MPH speed range. I've gotten 17+ before just not regularly.

 

Also @nobodyintexas is the king of posted MPGs. He is always posting impressive real world numbers showing that the bypass valve on these blowers work extremely well.

 

<hat tip>

I run 17 avg....all day. (dash says 27mpg!)

I'll get 20mpg on my cruise from Houston to Conroe (~90 miles) 62mph. stock wheels/tires.


observation...if my boost gauge says -10 inches of mercury.....I'm getting ~20mpg. when the damn gauge works!


and @Saltyhero13 is right....any molesting of the skinny pedal & things go south.


SG3 is damn accurate on mpg....its only off ~a tenth of a gallon at fill-up. it will learn the delta after you first true fillup.


Ideal MPG temp for my truck is 70 degrees ambient. which RARELY happens in Houston.

 

Warlock21,glad to see everything was working correctly give it a couple days to make sure nothing pops up. I will be up there to get a final rundown of what to expect and put the order in,hopefully I will have the same experience as you did thanks for the write up

 

You’re welcome buddy. Good luck!

 

I was working my way to that bill! lol. I did have to buy all my credits, and have my own HPtuner, so that's like another $600+. I think Dyno time was gonna be like $120 an hr or something like that

 

Well guys it's official, just got back from Nathan Speed and put down the deposit. Shop was nice,huge dyno room...I'll keep you all posted.

 

Best part is if you catch them before they open. They empty the bays of all the cars they store overnight. It is like a fast and furious car meet in the parking lot.

 

Beat you to it was there at 8 this morning, had a cool camaro said to put out over 1000hp...LOUD

 

Yeah they feature some of the cars on their YT page too. They also do upgrade comparisons which were Holdener-esque. I haven't tracked their new posts. If they are still doing weekly rounds ups WW21's truck may be featured.

 

And Congrats, excited for you!

 

Salty, Stillen would need several extra hours to modify, I took the less glamorous way out and ordered the Maggie sc box from SCOL...I know you guys will come back with a solution just think that is the best for my application right now...we will see

 

I tried and failed to modify the stillen to the Maggy. Tbh it's wasted effort unless you just do the frankenstillen. I'd just wait for the AFE Tundra S/C intake they're supposed to be developing. The Maggy is the best intake until then. And I'd be surprised if the AFE intake isn't at least $150+ less than the overpriced ProSpeed box

 

Yea..National Speed tried to sell me the prospered box but 700 is way too much and I can't afford the gold wrap that Rey wrapped his in

 

National Speed's website pricing btw.

https://nationalspeedinc.com/packages/toyota/toyota-truck/2007-2021-tundra/tundra-xk50-platform/

 

Thanks

 

I figure they wouldn't want to jack with it. The Maggie box is good for your desired power levels without any f*ckery. Probably cheaper this way too factoring their labor rates.

I also think you'll have a hard time finding the parts without some trial and error even with some of the great resource like @reywcms shared: https://www.intakehoses.com/ really depends on the intake ID you would need for Stage 2. Generally if the reduction is more than 1/2" or less than 1/4" you'll need a custom reducer.

I gave it some thought regarding adapting the Maggie box for a Stillen snorkel and may have a solution for you. Only problem is it probably requires modding the lid. Edit*** sorry not the lid the base. I just looked at Warlock's pics.

Since the dirty side/pre filtered air is on the left you might be able to do a cobrahead elbow to a 90* coupler to the Stillen intake. I don't know what the actual physical envelop available looks like on that box so this is just a guess.

• 3" Air duct mounting plate. Cut a hole in your box and mount this over it: https://a.co/d/5J3uvIb
• 3" Cobra head. Mounts to the plate above: https://www.intakehoses.com/cobra-head-elbow-3-id.html
• 3" 90* Elbow mounts to a coupler pipe segment between the cobra head and the 90 elbow: https://www.intakehoses.com/rubber-elbow-3-id-x-90-degree-short-radius.html
  
• 3" ID silicone coupler (Stillen kit had a spare in my kit). There are also offset couplers and hump couplers that give you some relief if it isn't a straight shot to the deflector opening
• Stillen "snorkel"
• 3" OD connector pipes of unknown length X2. One gets you around the washer fluid or whatever sits next to the air box. The second one gets you from the 90 to the coupler connecting the Stillen piece.

Hopefully that makes sense.

So instead of coming off straight like a stock stillen or rey's box you do two bends around the reservoir since you have to come off the left (passenger) side.

 

I figured they would. I should have warned you but glad you didn't buy it. Intake tube is well made though. Clearly Rey made it work well for him.