1. Welcome to Tundras.com!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tundra discussion topics
    • Transfer over your build thread from a different forum to this one
    • Communicate privately with other Tundra owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Extractor pump for transmission fluid "flush"?

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by TundraTinker, Mar 5, 2020.

  1. Mar 5, 2020 at 10:02 PM
    #1
    TundraTinker

    TundraTinker [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2020
    Member:
    #42273
    Messages:
    26
    Vehicle:
    2011 Tundra Crew Max (Canadian edition)
    Fender Flares, Dasaita HU, and your mom
    I'm on a quest to give my Canadian 2011 Tundra some love since it's from Canada and does not have any service records (I live in WA). So far I've changed the eng oil, front/rear diff oil (obviously never changed), transfer case oil (obviously never changed), lubed up my shaft :bananadance:, and now that I hate myself I'm going to do the transmission fluid.

    I have pretty much everything to do it, I've done a lot of research and this video seems like it's all easy enough to do:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLVZSoKbyZ0&feature=emb_logo

    However, I'm a little confused about whether I need to leave the fill tube in when I refill after draining from the pan and start the vehicle and drain from the oil cooler outlet at the radiator?

    I also purchased one of these because I need to feel manly:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CYL8P4B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    I'm wondering...could I just hook this up to the oil cooler outlet instead of hooking up a drain hose? I figure I could just pump out ALL of the fluid without even needing to start the vehicle, and keep filling new transmission fluid as I pump out the old crap? Hopefully that makes sense...

    Thanks for any assistance.
     
  2. Mar 5, 2020 at 11:08 PM
    #2
    773_eddie

    773_eddie Trd Pro

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2019
    Member:
    #26204
    Messages:
    659
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Eddie
    Chicago
    Vehicle:
    Tundra Trd Pro
    12volt remote start, weathertec accessories, Trd Pro decals, Toyota console safe,VLEDS Puddle Lights,Frac Harness,TRD PRO front and Rear Sway Bar,NSV Hood Light Bar,ESP long box,AJT accessories,Thinkware U1000 dashcam, coachbuilder 1/3 Lift, HR LED’s,Pro comp Traction bars, JL complete System wit 2 10” subs, Kenwood DDX9907XR HU
    You cannot pump out all the fluid without having the vehicle on because the Torque Converter is a sealed unit and the transmission pump pumps fluid into the torque converter. That’s why in the video he disconnects the trans cooler line and he over fills the trans so wen the line is disconnected he can pump the fluid out and still be safe from fluid starvation. So you don’t need that tool you truck will flush itself just put the hose in a bucket with the truck at idle it will drain but you need to keep adding new fluid at the same time and that will flush out the torque converter but it will not flush out all the fluid because you have drums in your transmission filled with clutches and those drums only come on wen your transmission goes into certain gears wen driving so they will be saturated with old fluid but the more you drain and fill it the cleaner the fluid will get. Once you finish everything the top Allen head bolt on your pan is the oil level so with the trans at normal operating temp you can drain the the un needed trans fluid it’s not hard to do this just a bit of time consuming and waste of trans fluid I would probably have like 3 gallons handy for this flushing job

    if you want you can call me and I can explain better sometimes what I write is hard to understand I been a transmision tech for 25 years
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2020
  3. Mar 6, 2020 at 5:21 PM
    #3
    TundraTinker

    TundraTinker [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2020
    Member:
    #42273
    Messages:
    26
    Vehicle:
    2011 Tundra Crew Max (Canadian edition)
    Fender Flares, Dasaita HU, and your mom
    Thank you for the in-depth reply! I was hoping to mitigate any risks by not flushing and filling at the same time, with the potential of the new fluid not filling as quickly as the system is draining. It'd be great to just drain the pan, replace fluid, start vehicle shift through the gears a bit, drain with the extractor pump with vehicle off, replace fluids, start vehicle again with cycling through gears, do another drain with the extractor pump and fill system back up.

    I'll just stick to the identified, established method. I do have 12 qt's of good old overpriced Toyota WS, hopefully that's enough...if not, I'll make it enough ;)

    Thanks again!
     
  4. Mar 6, 2020 at 5:25 PM
    #4
    773_eddie

    773_eddie Trd Pro

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2019
    Member:
    #26204
    Messages:
    659
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Eddie
    Chicago
    Vehicle:
    Tundra Trd Pro
    12volt remote start, weathertec accessories, Trd Pro decals, Toyota console safe,VLEDS Puddle Lights,Frac Harness,TRD PRO front and Rear Sway Bar,NSV Hood Light Bar,ESP long box,AJT accessories,Thinkware U1000 dashcam, coachbuilder 1/3 Lift, HR LED’s,Pro comp Traction bars, JL complete System wit 2 10” subs, Kenwood DDX9907XR HU
    You need a helper so you won’t drain faster than you can fill you can be outside watching the trans fluid draining and wen it matches color of what your putting in your helper can turn the truck off. Then you connect the cooler hose back and start the vehicle and drain the access fluid from that pan bolt in the middle not the drain plug

    We do that with all of our heavy equipment we have to maintain every day
     
  5. Mar 6, 2020 at 5:49 PM
    #5
    TundraTinker

    TundraTinker [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2020
    Member:
    #42273
    Messages:
    26
    Vehicle:
    2011 Tundra Crew Max (Canadian edition)
    Fender Flares, Dasaita HU, and your mom
    Thanks again for the help! Your method sounds reliable, and is what I'm going to stick with.
     
  6. Mar 8, 2020 at 1:17 PM
    #6
    TundraTinker

    TundraTinker [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2020
    Member:
    #42273
    Messages:
    26
    Vehicle:
    2011 Tundra Crew Max (Canadian edition)
    Fender Flares, Dasaita HU, and your mom
    Getting ready to rock and roll...im assuming I hook up to the top line to drain? Thanks!

    20200308_131359_HDR.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Mar 8, 2020
  7. Mar 8, 2020 at 7:15 PM
    #7
    TundraTinker

    TundraTinker [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2020
    Member:
    #42273
    Messages:
    26
    Vehicle:
    2011 Tundra Crew Max (Canadian edition)
    Fender Flares, Dasaita HU, and your mom
    Oooookkkaaayyy, well, as usual that took forever. The video in my first post is a great place to start, however, I had to do a couple of things just a little different:

    1. Screw that stupid 5/8" fill line, just use 1/2" line for both draining and filling...I could not for the life of me get the stupid effing 5/8" line to fit into the fill hole on the transmission, 1/2" went in perfect. 12' total of 1/2" ID tubing would be plenty for this job.

    2. It took a little for me to figure out where to hook my drain tube on the front of the truck since I have to tow package. See picture below with arrow, maybe this will help someone in the future. This is the very front of the radiator super easy to get to.

    3. I followed the directions on the final drain/fill from the video on my first post, before you do the quantity level check using the stupid paperclip, and after filling until fluid comes out of quantity level check bolt it wasn't for whatever reason nearly enough when it came to stupid paperclip time. I had to add another 1.5 qts (I ended up throwing some liquimoly in there too, hopefully my transmission likes it...my wallet doesn't).

    4. As with above, 12 qts isn't enough, you definitely want to have 13-14 qts (I ended up using 13--thankfully ACE near me had AMSOIL transmission fluid, hopefully it plays nice with the liquimoly and the other overpriced Toyota WS fluid).

    5. For whatever reason, my back hurts.
    20200308_182349.jpg 20200308_182001.jpg 20200308_182029.jpg 20200308_182036.jpg
     
    focal, 773_eddie and Luckydog like this.
  8. Mar 8, 2020 at 8:09 PM
    #8
    midMITundra

    midMITundra New Member

    Joined:
    May 11, 2018
    Member:
    #15246
    Messages:
    5
    Just curious on why you used this type of Liqui Moly in your trans? Didn't think it was good for wet clutches...
     
  9. Mar 8, 2020 at 8:16 PM
    #9
    TundraTinker

    TundraTinker [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2020
    Member:
    #42273
    Messages:
    26
    Vehicle:
    2011 Tundra Crew Max (Canadian edition)
    Fender Flares, Dasaita HU, and your mom
    Well, not gonna lie...i was kinda freaking out that I didn't have enough fluid, and was feeling lazy at this point, and did not want to run to the store. So, I mixed that Liqui Moly in with the last .5 qt of toyota WS and hoped it'd be enough to at least get some fluid to come out at temperature check...it wasn't, had to use wife's car and get more fluid.

    As to your point, I have no idea. I saw on the packaging it said I could use it in transmission fluid. Maybe I didn't look hard enough...maybe I won't give a shit until my transmission goes out...hopefully it doesn't.
     
    YardBird likes this.
  10. Mar 8, 2020 at 8:24 PM
    #10
    midMITundra

    midMITundra New Member

    Joined:
    May 11, 2018
    Member:
    #15246
    Messages:
    5
    Check out their website...or give them a call. It's a friction modifier that you really don't want in there...I'd be doing another flush.
     
    TundraTinker [OP] likes this.
  11. Mar 8, 2020 at 9:19 PM
    #11
    TundraTinker

    TundraTinker [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2020
    Member:
    #42273
    Messages:
    26
    Vehicle:
    2011 Tundra Crew Max (Canadian edition)
    Fender Flares, Dasaita HU, and your mom
    Well of course I'd do something stupid. Guess I'll have to do some research.

    --Update--
    Well after lots of research, looks like I wasted $105 of the Toyota WS transmission fluid by being very stupid and adding the Liqui Moly Cera Tec to the transmission like a moron. From reading, the Cera Tec actually does the opposite of what I'd want for the transmission on this vehicle. Wrong application for a highly rated product.

    I'm just hoping 300mL isn't much to have caused any real damage in the 5 min that I drove the truck, and will waste around another $105 on AMSOIL OE transmission fluid that's readily available to me tomorrow for an attempt to flush this shiz out.

    What a dumb mistake.

    Huge thanks to @midMITundra for your assistance...I see you joined May 2018, with only 3 posts, and you've helped me from potentially ruining my "new" truck. Maybe you knew that I was born and raised in MI too? Haha...seriously, if you have ever been to Sawyer MI that's where I grew up!
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2020
    focal likes this.
  12. Mar 9, 2020 at 11:22 AM
    #12
    TundraTinker

    TundraTinker [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2020
    Member:
    #42273
    Messages:
    26
    Vehicle:
    2011 Tundra Crew Max (Canadian edition)
    Fender Flares, Dasaita HU, and your mom
    Well...i just did another flush, used valvoline maxlife. Supposedly it's compatible with Toyota WS. Hopefully my transmission is ok.
     
    1rooster and YardBird like this.
  13. Mar 10, 2020 at 7:43 AM
    #13
    TundraTinker

    TundraTinker [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2020
    Member:
    #42273
    Messages:
    26
    Vehicle:
    2011 Tundra Crew Max (Canadian edition)
    Fender Flares, Dasaita HU, and your mom
    Well Sir, you are a gentleman, scholar, and obviously better at this then me. Both flushes I had to use 13 quarts.

    Another weird thing, each initial drain from the pan yielded almost 5 quarts...each time the truck sat overnight, fluid nice and cold, truck is level.
     
  14. Mar 10, 2020 at 10:03 AM
    #14
    773_eddie

    773_eddie Trd Pro

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2019
    Member:
    #26204
    Messages:
    659
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Eddie
    Chicago
    Vehicle:
    Tundra Trd Pro
    12volt remote start, weathertec accessories, Trd Pro decals, Toyota console safe,VLEDS Puddle Lights,Frac Harness,TRD PRO front and Rear Sway Bar,NSV Hood Light Bar,ESP long box,AJT accessories,Thinkware U1000 dashcam, coachbuilder 1/3 Lift, HR LED’s,Pro comp Traction bars, JL complete System wit 2 10” subs, Kenwood DDX9907XR HU
    5 quarts sounds about right for a pan drain then the torque converter holds another 4-5 quarts and then you got fluid all thru the trans in the drums and valve body on average that trans will take about 12-14 quarts on a rebuilt completely empty so your in the right place on 13 quarts for a flush wen flushing you waste some oil to get it nice and red again you doing great
     
    TundraTinker [OP] likes this.
  15. Mar 11, 2020 at 6:45 AM
    #15
    1rooster

    1rooster New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2020
    Member:
    #41529
    Messages:
    170
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tony
    Vehicle:
    2007 crewmax
    So how is your shifts? Still going strong ?
     
  16. Mar 11, 2020 at 9:58 AM
    #16
    TundraTinker

    TundraTinker [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2020
    Member:
    #42273
    Messages:
    26
    Vehicle:
    2011 Tundra Crew Max (Canadian edition)
    Fender Flares, Dasaita HU, and your mom
    I've only put about 70 miles since the change, but everything seems great so far!
     
  17. Mar 11, 2020 at 3:16 PM
    #17
    Failure2comply

    Failure2comply Master HVAC Tech

    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2019
    Member:
    #35986
    Messages:
    94
    Gender:
    Male
    VA
    Vehicle:
    2008 Tundra Crewmax Limited w/factory 20" wheels
    Trailer brake. Limousine tint in rear windows. Ultra Gauge "Blue". Toyota bed mat and bug deflector.
    Be sure to read this Toyota paper before performing a drain/flush and fill. If you have the tow package on your truck you "MUST" follow the steps to open the Cooler Thermostat to get an accurate level when you reach check able temperatures.
     

    Attached Files:

    JLS in WA likes this.
  18. Mar 11, 2020 at 3:56 PM
    #18
    TundraTinker

    TundraTinker [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2020
    Member:
    #42273
    Messages:
    26
    Vehicle:
    2011 Tundra Crew Max (Canadian edition)
    Fender Flares, Dasaita HU, and your mom
    Well, I certainly pulled the paperclip too early on that. Guess I'll have to do another check in the next few days. I was hoping to not smell transmission fluid for a while.

    I wonder since I checked with the cooler thermostat NOT open, if I'm over or under serviced? Thanks for the heads up! I'm certainly living up to the tinker definition!!
     
  19. Mar 11, 2020 at 4:48 PM
    #19
    Failure2comply

    Failure2comply Master HVAC Tech

    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2019
    Member:
    #35986
    Messages:
    94
    Gender:
    Male
    VA
    Vehicle:
    2008 Tundra Crewmax Limited w/factory 20" wheels
    Trailer brake. Limousine tint in rear windows. Ultra Gauge "Blue". Toyota bed mat and bug deflector.
    Don't feel bad, I checked mine twice before finding the article, I was looking to verify the temperature check range. So I will be under the truck again this weekend doing the third check. LOL
     
    TundraTinker [OP] likes this.
  20. Mar 11, 2020 at 6:26 PM
    #20
    1rooster

    1rooster New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2020
    Member:
    #41529
    Messages:
    170
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tony
    Vehicle:
    2007 crewmax
    That 115-133 was not accurate for my 2007. I jumped the obd port and got it into temp check mode per instructions. Once the “D” illuminated I pulled the paper clip and plugged in my ultra gauge. It read 100.1 pan temp. So I’m assuming it came on at 99 degree and it took me another 30 seconds to get it plugged in and turned on which gave it time to get to the 100.1 mark.
     
  21. Mar 11, 2020 at 6:28 PM
    #21
    1rooster

    1rooster New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2020
    Member:
    #41529
    Messages:
    170
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tony
    Vehicle:
    2007 crewmax
    The process was not new to me. I have done it at least 7 times to my Tacoma. I done the same to it and it illuminated at 115.
     
  22. Mar 11, 2020 at 8:51 PM
    #22
    TundraTinker

    TundraTinker [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2020
    Member:
    #42273
    Messages:
    26
    Vehicle:
    2011 Tundra Crew Max (Canadian edition)
    Fender Flares, Dasaita HU, and your mom
    Yeah, I was just going to use my BT scanner with the torque app on my HU but wasn't 100% sure what temp to use...so I just did the good old paperclip jumper and shifted through all the gears to get the D light special.
     
  23. Mar 12, 2020 at 11:01 AM
    #23
    TundraTinker

    TundraTinker [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2020
    Member:
    #42273
    Messages:
    26
    Vehicle:
    2011 Tundra Crew Max (Canadian edition)
    Fender Flares, Dasaita HU, and your mom
    I checked with the cooler thermostat open this time, only had to add 1/2 quart. Hopefully it's all good now!
     
    1rooster likes this.
  24. Mar 12, 2020 at 12:13 PM
    #24
    1rooster

    1rooster New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2020
    Member:
    #41529
    Messages:
    170
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tony
    Vehicle:
    2007 crewmax
    Glad to hear! You should be set for quite some time.
     
    TundraTinker [OP] likes this.
  25. Mar 12, 2020 at 8:10 PM
    #25
    1rooster

    1rooster New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2020
    Member:
    #41529
    Messages:
    170
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tony
    Vehicle:
    2007 crewmax
    Did you drop the pan and clean the magnets before your flush?
     
  26. Mar 12, 2020 at 8:16 PM
    #26
    1rooster

    1rooster New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2020
    Member:
    #41529
    Messages:
    170
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tony
    Vehicle:
    2007 crewmax
    Here is some good info posted by @gearcruncher over on Tacoma world. That may be why I developed a hard shift after my fluid exchange.


    The reason we remove the pan is to determine a contamination level before we flush .
    Why do we do a contamination inspection before we flush ?
    On the A750E series transmission , the transmission pan is not made of glass and we cant see whats laying in the bottom of the pan , whats accumulated on the magnets or what hasaccumulated in the transmission filter .
    If you enjoy taking chances ....manyshops do . Go ahead and skip the transmission pan drop and filter cleaning .
    What risk are they taking by skipping the pan drop and going directly to a flush ?
    The original transmission fluid has worked hard all its life keeping your transmission clean by depositing sediments , steel , brass , plastic , aluminum etc etc into the bottom of your pan . Some of the particles are collected on the magnets . Some are collected in the pan and some are collected inside the filter .
    If you are considering a transmission service , chances are the useful life of your transmission fluid has depleted . The re-agents in the transmission fluid are old , depleted and no longer working as they should .
    When you introduce new transmission fluid with a very very high detergent rating , the new transmission fluid can wash or lift the old deposits off the pan , magnets and transmission filter and allow the deposits to travel into the valve body .
    When this happens , you get stuck valves and no shifting or slipping .

    High mileage transmissions ? flush them every day . Pan comes off first to determine a contamination level .
    If the contamination level on a high mileage transmission is low , Go ahead and flush .
    The owner of the vehicle obviously kept up with transmission services

    If the contamination level is very high and the transmission has never been serviced , it may just be a drain and fill of the pan for that high mileage transmission because deposits will accumulate in other areas of the transmission due to lack of transmission fluid changes .

    Aisn Seiki transmissions work best when the fluid is super clean . Because the valve body is a solid block of aluminum , the valve bodies are extremely susceptible to wear .
    When the valve body begins wearing out , the computer compensates for the wear and the driver doesnt think there are issues because the truck continues to shift fine .

    Keep your fluid clean
     
  27. Mar 12, 2020 at 8:49 PM
    #27
    TundraTinker

    TundraTinker [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2020
    Member:
    #42273
    Messages:
    26
    Vehicle:
    2011 Tundra Crew Max (Canadian edition)
    Fender Flares, Dasaita HU, and your mom
    That's quite the knowledge bomb!! I didn't drop the pan, as I've read that the bolts like to break when taking them off.

    I'll do another flush in 30K, because I hate myself. I plan on hitting the bolts with some PB Blaster a week before, then attempting to get the pan bolts off. I may even order new bolts beforehand just in case I get to drill bolts out.
     
  28. Mar 13, 2020 at 6:05 PM
    #28
    huntertn

    huntertn New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2019
    Member:
    #32273
    Messages:
    159
    First Name:
    Steve
    Tennessee
    Vehicle:
    2008 White CrewMax Limited 4x4
    It was making sense to me up to the part about lifting old deposits off the magnets :confused:
     
  29. Mar 13, 2020 at 7:34 PM
    #29
    1rooster

    1rooster New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2020
    Member:
    #41529
    Messages:
    170
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tony
    Vehicle:
    2007 crewmax
    my interpretation of that was that the high detergents kinda dissolve the gunk and sediments and distributed back into the suspension mixture.
     
  30. Mar 14, 2020 at 6:58 AM
    #30
    Failure2comply

    Failure2comply Master HVAC Tech

    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2019
    Member:
    #35986
    Messages:
    94
    Gender:
    Male
    VA
    Vehicle:
    2008 Tundra Crewmax Limited w/factory 20" wheels
    Trailer brake. Limousine tint in rear windows. Ultra Gauge "Blue". Toyota bed mat and bug deflector.
    My take on his statement is that a "Flush" might wash the collected metals off of the magnets and allow them to get to the internals. I would never do a "Flush" without dropping the pan, cleaning the magnets, changing the strainer, o-ring, and pan gasket. Along with the two crush washers and possibly the fill plug o-ring.
     

Products Discussed in

To Top