Exhaust Install Question

Has anyone encountered major issues with breaking the bolts loose behind the cats at the flange? I can't get them loose. Impact, breaker bar, PB Blaster...None will break them loose. Kit calls to reuse them so if I cut does anyone know the size for replacements? Thanksin advance for any help.

 

Can't believe an impact can't get that off. Just to be sure, you are trying on the bolt side and not the nut side, right?

 

LOL. Yes sir, Correct. I laugh cause a buddy of mine looked at it and asked the same and I told him, yeah I noticed the weld there. He tried to and no success, he was surprised.

I thought the same when the impact wouldn't even budge. 14mm. All it did was shook rust from the rest of flange away and then started to round the bolt head so I stopped..

 

If you can...How about a little heat and that impact gun...Always had worked in the past for me.

 

We considered that but my exhaust was even hot from driving there so I wondered if

1. Would that help?
2. Would I ruin the bolt head and then not have a replacement?

So I paused on that..

 

Any charges of buying new bolts and “attack” while it’s hot , just a thought
I typically spray WD40 or any rust buster lubricant the night before

 

Yeah I sprayed some PB Blaster this morning and this evening when I took a shot at it. Gonna do some research on finding the correct bolt size in the event that I do damage them and possibly "better quality" ones then that are on there now that the salt won't eat up so much.

Meanwhile, she just sits there...Waiting..

 

Ugh gotta love NY! Damn salt

 

I know right. I love PB Blaster, may have to spray it several times and let is soak in a few days. I had a saying if PB Blaster wont unstick it a Saws All will.

 

LMAO!! Yeah I feel as though I pretty much came here in an attempt to find the bolt size as I'm quite certain that these rusty's will get cut.

 

I’m sure Keith @dirtydeeds would know the size. But where would you cut it? Cut off the welded nut? I’d definitely try soaking a couple more days then heating it if that doesn’t work.

 

Wire wheel the threads and bolt head clean.
Soak it with PB & wait over night.
Heat if you can.
Hammer on the socket to the cleaned bolt head so it won't round off.
Get a buddy on at least a 3 ft breaker bar (more leverage than an impact gun). If your breaker bar is not long enough, use a pipe to extend.
As buddy pulls on the bar hard, use a 5 lb sledgehammer and whack the end of the bolt, then the flange, and repeat.
1 of two things will absolutely come from this... You will get it out, or it will break off somewhere, but at least it will be over.

I got mine off this way. I used a 4ft pipe on a 3/4 HD rachet. I pulled the pipe and hammered the bolt, and it finally let go... but not without a fight. After it broke free, the impact took it right off.
I broke 4 out of 6 bolts at the muffler to tailepipe flanges (dual exhaust). None of those midpipe bolts broke, and they were much more difficult to remove. I'm in CT and my truck is a 17'. I couldn't believe the rust either.

 

Kroil and heat....

 

I had to grind all of my bolts off. And replaced. Sorry I don’t know the size but I was at work and had a big selection of bolts

 

I looked at my exhaust bolts and they look worse than yours. Mine is a 2012 Sequoia. One of the reasons I haven't bought an exhaust yet since I know getting the bolts off would be a pain. Looking at the parts diagram, I was able to order 4 bolts and nuts in case I need to cut them out. Here they are for my Sequoia. I'd double check to make sure they are the same for your Tundra. They are 14mm.

 

I always tighten my bolts first to get them loose when they move then they always come off.

 

Just heat. It will come right off.

Take a torch to the nut until it is cherry red and then (if the bolt isn’t stripped) use a breaker, and if it is stripped use a vice with a cheater bar. It will pop off easily.

Mine was the same way and I could have PBd it til next Tuesday and it wouldn’t have moved. Just need a butane torch.

And again, heat the nut, not the bolt head.

 

Above. Saw this work first hand today with some seriously rusted bolts. Worked well.

 

They are also a weird size bolt. Looked up the size online and bought some at a local car parts store...wrong thread. Ended up picking up a couple at the local yota dealer

 

yes go homedepot buy the plumber torch, yellow one burn hotter.

 

The impact isn’t a high enough torque rating. Use a breaker bar. M10-35x1.25

But any half inch but and bolt works fine too.

 

PB Blaster is actually on the lower end of rust penetrants.
https://oppositelock.kinja.com/make-your-own-kick-ass-penetrating-oil-1739690558

 

By the looks of your new exhaust it doesn’t even look like you need to take off the front flange nuts. It looks like you’re going to cut your pipes and slip over the new exhaust with some clamps and the same thing cut before your rear flange. If you can just get the rear flange off you can probably do everything in place. Mock it up and cut it under the truck.The rear tail pipe might swing just enough out of the way for you to not even have to pull it off the hangers.

 

OK I see you have the tail pipe as well. Even better just cut it off behind the flanges and work your way back. Just make sure you don’t cut off too much unless you have a pipe stretcher LOL

 

I’ve uses Kroil, Liquid Wrench and Wd40 they never worked well for me. PB is what I use. But ATF!! I will give it a try and get back to you.. Thanks,, I hate a stuck nut!!!

 

ATF with Acetone mixed in.

 

What system is that?

 

Is that a CRAVEN muffler?

 

Carven