Excited then Unexcited .....

Would you guys know if I would need shims for the front before adding the 6112's. I hear a lot about shims do I need them for the 2017, I hear them add them for drivers lean or to add to the hieght! Do the 2017's compared to the older models have the driver lean

Will I be ok with just adding the 6112's without any shims, then if lean would it be easy to add a shim without taking the whole assembly out again!

Thanks

 

I don't have any shims on mine and have not noticed any lean after 3500 miles. I can measure both sides when I get home for you if you want. It'll be a couple hours.

 

Just measure your fronts from center of wheel to the fender. If one side is higher by 1/2" or more you might want to add one shim while doing the install.

 

that would be great thanks!

 

I'll do that, I would have to be on a level ground correct!

 

yes... very very very important

 

Just measured and drivers side is 3/16" lower. How about that. Can't tell by looking at it. It does have a full tank though if that makes a difference

 

Yeah I found a half decent level lot at auto zone I am from center rim to fender 20" now pretty even on both sides, post 6112 install"

But for the life of me when driving it always looks like pax side is lower, maybe just me

Auto zone said the rent out the ballbearing press was $100 but after returning it the give the $100 back!

I assume this will be useful for removing bushings on old shackles prior to the CB #2 shackle install

 

Just saw this post Geno. I would think twice before you install a longer bump. If you look at the Tundra bump stop it is very short because the location in relation to the A-arm is minimal travel. Bilstein designed those washer to be used only on the top two notches of the 6112 or 5100. If you add a longer bump, you are limiting your up travel by the A-arm contacting that bump sooner. Now depending on the material durometer, you may be ok if it is soft enough for the added length. Just my crazy brain spinning again......

 

Full tank? And yes you'll need for shackles.

 

Half tank!

 

Thanks Bro

So just use the washers that came with the 6112's since I'm at top setting and I'll disregard adding bigger bumps

Thanks and my head hurts from all this thinking [/QUOTE]

 

man

Thanks again everyone for the help and putting up with all my questions.

 

[/QUOTE]
Not saying the other bumps wont work, but I think might as well save a few bucks and spend it on a steak dinner........

 

I personally try to help when I can, and think that is one of the many things that makes this such a great Forum. ( lots of ideas and opinions ).......

 

Amen to that brother

 

Yep, those are for the bump stops. Keeps the shocks from bottoming out. $300 for the whole front install is a good deal. @LOTSOFTOYS said the ucas take about three hours and that yes they are a pain. I'll probably just do that myself, when I can afford to get them. But that's how I am, sense of accomplishment and saving money! Plus I've been working on cars since I was 14and already have the tools.

 

Dirtydeeds has a video on the assembly of the 6112's, he tossed them to. I'm thinking that if you add a cb shim on the top of the coilover. You should drop the bump stops down a little more. The shocks can only compress so far before they get jacked up. Oh yeah, Lotsoftoys doesn't recommend adding more than one shim per side or even just one to correct the lean. You'll have more preload on the drivers side, which could affect the way the suspension works. It's like having a stiffer spring on one. Just live with the stupid lean, that's how our trucks were built. He's an actual Toyota tech, so I trust his opinion over what Coachbuilder says. I've got three shims just sitting here. I might put one on each side when I get ucas.

 

So without the shims, my front should sit at 2.5" lift at the highest setting on the 6112's would that equal to a 3" lift when done or would I have to ad a shim on each to get to a 3" from that 2.5" 6112 top setting!

 

I got exactly 2.5 on the top setting. Coachbuilder says each 1/4" shim adds 1/2". Lotsoftoys doesn't think you'll get that much, but he also doesn't recommend adding more than one. None is better. I had 34x11.50 on stock wheels with 2.5 without any real clearance issues and the truck looked great. Remember that even with the 1" diff drop, your cv angles are still more severe than stock and the higher you go the more that angle increases.

 

I will stay with the top setting 2.5 and stay away from adding shims, but the differential drop kit is a good idea, correct?

 

yes

 

Get this shit done. I wanna see it.

 

I didn't ask Lotsoftoys about the diff drop. It does change the pinion angle. @ColoradoTJ was talking about that. I forget what thread that was. I have one on my truck and haven't noticed anything wrong with it. I'm contemplating dropping the front down to the second from the top instead of doing the ucas. In which case I'll be pulling the diff drop out.

 

At 2.5 my trucks camber is maxed out and still not quite in spec. This could be the reason the trac is acting up.

 

Roger that!

 

Get er done yet geno? You're going to love the way your truck rides! Take it over some R.R. tracks or a nice washboard dirt road. That's the kind of stuff where those pretty silver bad boys really shine. Night and day difference over the stickers. Mine was a TRD, now it's a semi-pro. Except for the trac, I hope the 6112's don't have to do with that.

 

OK my brothers,

I will attempt the install of my 6112's this weekend, yes ME!

I will ask a few questions and I have read threads and youtube's.


1. Is there a part that I bungie cord to keep out of the way and so I dont mess the brake or other wires in the area to make room while fitting in the new 6112 coilover!

2. Once I have the new 6112 in and all bolts back on, do I tighten all the bolts prior to letting the jack lowered and sitting on tires off jack and stands? Or are there some only that must be tightened after truck is lowered!

Thats one question, please be prepared for a few more if you dont mind me asking and when I finish I will play it forward for those in need, Thanks All!

 

I used a tie down strap to keep the knuckle/brake assembly from swinging out to far. Its not just the brake line, you also need to make sure that the cv axle doesn't pull out. Mark the concentrics on the lower control arms before loosening them, so you can put them back in the same In the same position. That way your alignment won't be so out of whack that you can't safely drive it to the alignment shop. Remove the two bolts that attach the lower ball joint to the knuckle. Not the upper ball joint. Those get torqued to like 220 lb ft. Be careful not to pull the truck off the Jack stands. I use two jacks, one under the front crossmember so the Jack stands aren't the only thing holding up the truck. The other to lift the control arms. If you want you can get everything somewhat tight and do the final torquimg after its on the ground for safety. But the wheels may be in the way. I haven't done the ucas, the procedure may be a little different if you are doing them at the same time. Good luck geno.