1. Welcome to Tundras.com!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tundra discussion topics
    • Transfer over your build thread from a different forum to this one
    • Communicate privately with other Tundra owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Engine whine (especially when revving up) & low voltage meter

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by Spvrtan, Jan 18, 2017.

  1. Jan 18, 2017 at 12:39 AM
    #1
    Spvrtan

    Spvrtan [OP] Amateur fabricator

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2015
    Member:
    #1140
    Messages:
    1,643
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Kris
    San Diego, CA
    Vehicle:
    Black '14 CM SR5 w/ SC; 40s on 17s; 5.29s
    Edit: Investigation updates..

    https://www.tundras.com/threads/engine-whine-especially-when-revving-up.9960/#post-170503
    https://www.tundras.com/threads/engine-whine-especially-when-revving-up.9960/#post-170172

    Hopefully this thread becomes useful to someone in the future, should they encounter the same or similar issues.
    __________

    So I just noticed earlier today that my engine is whining. I've had a supercharger for almost 2 years now and the whine is noticeably different/louder. Initially my guess was that it was my alternator but now I'm thinking it's one of the idler pulleys (#1, tensioner, or SC idler).

    Backstory..

    Went offroading in Anza-Borrego this Sunday. We were on our way out but ran into a decently deep yet very watery mud bog around 7p (pitch black) that stretched for almost a quarter-mile. I made it through with the help of my supercharger, 37s, and lift clearance (other guys had to be pulled off trail up onto higher ground). The mud was very soupy and on average almost halfway up my rear axle (I have the diff breather relocated to behind my taillight).

    [​IMG]

    The drive home and all day Monday I didn't hear any whining. However, on Monday I cleaned the engine bay with a degreaser (Simple Green) and water; I let the engine cool for about 15 minutes, sprayed degreaser on to rest for about 5 minutes, rinsed the whole bay, repeated steps one more time. Today (Tuesday) is when I started hearing the whine.

    Could the degreaser have gotten between the pulleys (IIRC, they have grease around them) and caused the whine? Or would that sound more like a squeak?

    The reason why I'm doubting it being the alternator is because I've been in water deeper than that several times and never had issues..

    [​IMG]

    Or maybe my drive belt is bad now (I have a new one coming in Monday so I can swap it out then for good measure)?
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2017
  2. Jan 18, 2017 at 6:16 AM
    #2
    T-Rex266

    T-Rex266 Independentoffroad who? That's cute. Staff Member

    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2014
    Member:
    #6
    Messages:
    55,116
    Gender:
    Male
    I think the degreaser got onto the tensioner or belt. Have you checked those?
    You mentioned it didn't happen until after the degreaser was applied.
     
  3. Jan 18, 2017 at 6:29 AM
    #3
    sc134

    sc134 O.P.S.

    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2017
    Member:
    #5874
    Messages:
    108
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2017 Tundra PreRunner
    Front 2.5 Fox Factory Extended Length Coilovers, Total Chaos Upper Control Arms, Swapped projector Headlights, Tint, Dual Carven Exhaust
    Supercharger just making its noise.
     
    Midnighttaco08 likes this.
  4. Jan 18, 2017 at 7:02 AM
    #4
    GTABurnout

    GTABurnout New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2015
    Member:
    #1712
    Messages:
    142
    My supercharged Tundra makes a similar noise. I thought I might be losing a pulley. I can't remember it being as loud as it is now before. Truck only has 35K on it. I have a spare belt just in case. Also its a lot colder then it was so it might be that.
     
  5. Jan 18, 2017 at 7:40 AM
    #5
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2014
    Member:
    #38
    Messages:
    17,136
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Brian
    Broomfield, CO
    Vehicle:
    2019 TRD Sport CM 5.7L 4X4
    Some Mods :) See build thread for details
    Id go for bearing going out.
     
  6. Jan 18, 2017 at 8:20 AM
    #6
    landphil

    landphil I can’t be serious.

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2016
    Member:
    #4814
    Messages:
    3,315
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Phil
    BC, Canada
    Vehicle:
    ‘08 TRD doublecab
    When you have the belt off, check the idlers pulley, tensioner pulley, and all belt driven accessories for roughness and play in the bearings. Should be easy to locate.
     
  7. Jan 18, 2017 at 9:05 AM
    #7
    TheBeast

    TheBeast The Beach

    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2016
    Member:
    #3246
    Messages:
    11,982
    Gender:
    Male
    SoCal
    Vehicle:
    2012
    tag for outcome
     
  8. Jan 18, 2017 at 9:22 AM
    #8
    ColoradoTJ

    ColoradoTJ So there I was.... Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2016
    Member:
    #2766
    Messages:
    23,616
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Chris
    Colorado
    Hope it is an easy find and fix. Sounds like a pulley bearing going south to me as well.

    Sub'd
     
  9. Jan 18, 2017 at 1:09 PM
    #9
    Spvrtan

    Spvrtan [OP] Amateur fabricator

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2015
    Member:
    #1140
    Messages:
    1,643
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Kris
    San Diego, CA
    Vehicle:
    Black '14 CM SR5 w/ SC; 40s on 17s; 5.29s
    I have a replacement belt coming in this weekend just in case and I haven't had time yet to do more thorough investigation but here's what I've gathered so far after popping the hood real quick and listening by ear (I'll try to pinpoint it further later with the hose to ear trick)..

    1) It's definitely coming from near the belt/pulley areas.
    a) That means it could be one of those parts or the alternator nearby.
    b) Replacing the belt is cheap and easy to do so hopefully this is it.

    2) Don't the pulleys use grease? Are the pulleys just as easy to replace as the belt? Can I regrease them, if so?
    a) Never replaced a pulley before; might be costly or hard?

    3) My voltage meter on my dash is reading ZERO but the truck starts and runs fine (even with all electrical accessories on).
    a) I'll check my wiring connections again around the battery terminals (because I was messing around with them last week when wiring up my winch) but I doubt that's the cause since it's reading zero instead of fluctuating to anything at all.
    b) Never replaced an alternator either but from reading about some other people's experiences on here and the other Tundra forums it doesn't sound like it's that hard to do.

    4) Maybe it's just a bad voltage sensor?
    a) I don't know where this part is located so it could be a possibility if it is lower in the engine bay and exposed to the natural elements.

    If it ends up being the alternator, I wonder if it's worth it to upgrade to something a little bigger (or better yet.. anything that can withstand the elements better -- suggestions?), such as this (from @sdhq_offroad):
    http://store.sdhqoffroad.com/270ampxphighoutputalternatorfortoyotatundra200957lv8.aspx

    ..more options here:
    https://www.dcpowerinc.com/high-output-alternators.html?q=/high-output-alternators.html&make=Toyota&model=Tundra&year=2012&engine=5.7L+V8+3UR-FE

    Edit: I'll try and record a video later, too, of the sound from the engine bay.
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2017
  10. Jan 18, 2017 at 1:20 PM
    #10
    Spvrtan

    Spvrtan [OP] Amateur fabricator

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2015
    Member:
    #1140
    Messages:
    1,643
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Kris
    San Diego, CA
    Vehicle:
    Black '14 CM SR5 w/ SC; 40s on 17s; 5.29s
    Also, my "check engine" light isn't on but I'll have to plug in my OBDII code reader later to see if there are any premature warnings.
     
  11. Jan 18, 2017 at 1:47 PM
    #11
    sdhq_offroad

    sdhq_offroad New Member Vendor

    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2016
    Member:
    #3253
    Messages:
    1,162
    GILBERT, AZ
    Just one thing to keep in mind. Higher performance alternators = less life span as the factory OEM one. But generally speaking, your OEM alternator shouldn't have a problem with the power that you are pulling with the stuff on your truck.
     
  12. Jan 18, 2017 at 4:52 PM
    #12
    Lowcountrytj

    Lowcountrytj Buford T. Justice

    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2016
    Member:
    #4911
    Messages:
    321
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Phillip
    SE GA
    Vehicle:
    2008 Tundra DC, SC
    Did you run the engine after you cleaned it up with degreaser and water?
    The bearings are normally non serviceable and packed with grease... Sealed bearings.
    It's possible that you got some moisture in one and now it's trying to go south.
     
  13. Jan 18, 2017 at 4:59 PM
    #13
    Lowcountrytj

    Lowcountrytj Buford T. Justice

    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2016
    Member:
    #4911
    Messages:
    321
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Phillip
    SE GA
    Vehicle:
    2008 Tundra DC, SC
    Our trucks with SC have a lot less room to work, but I would try opening tensioner, sliding belt off and checking the tensioner bearing for play or being noisy/rough while trying to spin it.
     
  14. Jan 18, 2017 at 6:53 PM
    #14
    TTund16

    TTund16 New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2017
    Member:
    #5798
    Messages:
    839
    Gender:
    Male
    in one of my old cars the ac compressor was making a whining noise when revving up ... other than that, the a/c was working fine. I bypassed it since didn't need the ac on that car and the noise went away. didn't want to risk a blow up.
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2017
  15. Jan 18, 2017 at 8:48 PM
    #15
    Wynnded

    Wynnded What MPG...

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2014
    Member:
    #379
    Messages:
    3,744
    Gender:
    Male
    Rockies
    Vehicle:
    2011 RCSB S/C'd 5.7L AWD Tundra
    OEM Upgrades: TRD PRO BBS Wheels TRD S/C, OVTune and +2 psi pulley TRD Rear Sway Bar Fox TRD Pro Shocks Limited mirrors (auto darkening/backup camera/power fold/puddle lights) Limited Grill Mod Automatic Climate Controls Mod Automatic Headlamp Mod Sequoia Front Sway Bar Mod Sequoia Transfer Case Mod Sequoia Leather Steering Wheel Mod Sequoia Limited Gage Cluster Mod Sequoia LED Headlamp Upgrade Window Tint Fake Manual Transmission Mod 10" BAMufflers Stainless Catback Engine Block Heater Illuminated Ignition Key Ring Mod Deck Rail System w/cleats
    The OBD reader should be able to tell you what voltage your alternator is putting out too, I think. Mine does. I'd have to go with a pulley bearing that got wet wheeling or washing. You may have even hosed your alternator bearings....
     
  16. Jan 19, 2017 at 1:42 AM
    #16
    Spvrtan

    Spvrtan [OP] Amateur fabricator

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2015
    Member:
    #1140
    Messages:
    1,643
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Kris
    San Diego, CA
    Vehicle:
    Black '14 CM SR5 w/ SC; 40s on 17s; 5.29s
    So it looks like with the whine and voltage reader on the dash panel reading below 9v (around 6 or 7, if not meaning 0), that it's the alternator causing both -- maybe some degreaser got into there as I rinsed the degreaser off down the engine bay with water..

    Yup, that's what I'm thinking. I can't actually work on the truck until Friday afternoon or all day Saturday. I can probably easily take the belt off and check the pulleys in under a hour but which bearings are you talking about? The one(s) in the alternator? I guess some of the degreaser could've gotten into the alternator as I sprayed or rinsed it off and dripped down the engine block into the alternator.

    Random ridiculous thought.. could it be possible to spray Fluid Film in the alternator to give it a kick? Haha.

    It sure does look like a tight fit between the belt and radiator fan.

    Is the AC compressor located near the belt? Because that's where I'm hearing the sound.

    I have an UltraGauge, which wasn't throwing any engine codes, but didn't know it shows the voltage. I'll check that tomorrow.
     
  17. Jan 19, 2017 at 3:31 AM
    #17
    Spvrtan

    Spvrtan [OP] Amateur fabricator

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2015
    Member:
    #1140
    Messages:
    1,643
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Kris
    San Diego, CA
    Vehicle:
    Black '14 CM SR5 w/ SC; 40s on 17s; 5.29s
    Here's a video of the whining sound..
     
  18. Jan 19, 2017 at 6:05 AM
    #18
    ColoradoTJ

    ColoradoTJ So there I was.... Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2016
    Member:
    #2766
    Messages:
    23,616
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Chris
    Colorado
    You may have a two fold problem.

    Check the stator wire connection on the back of the alternator. It could have a bad connection. The voltmeter on the dash is an indicator. It might be a little difficult to get a reach at. One of the most jackass things I have seen Toyota do, just short of the starter location on the 4.7L motor. This is how alternators should be mounted, and there is two of them in this pic:

    IMG_0639.jpg


    When you go through water and mud at any kind of speed, that is a lot of force that can be placed on electrical components.

    I would suggest pulling the alternator and load testing it, but that is no easy task. Your call on that one.

    The idler pulleys are pretty easy to change out as is the tensioner pulley. With the tensioner pulley, see if they can sell you just the pulley, and not the complete assembly. Way cheaper that way.
     
    Wynnded likes this.
  19. Jan 19, 2017 at 6:12 AM
    #19
    Wynnded

    Wynnded What MPG...

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2014
    Member:
    #379
    Messages:
    3,744
    Gender:
    Male
    Rockies
    Vehicle:
    2011 RCSB S/C'd 5.7L AWD Tundra
    OEM Upgrades: TRD PRO BBS Wheels TRD S/C, OVTune and +2 psi pulley TRD Rear Sway Bar Fox TRD Pro Shocks Limited mirrors (auto darkening/backup camera/power fold/puddle lights) Limited Grill Mod Automatic Climate Controls Mod Automatic Headlamp Mod Sequoia Front Sway Bar Mod Sequoia Transfer Case Mod Sequoia Leather Steering Wheel Mod Sequoia Limited Gage Cluster Mod Sequoia LED Headlamp Upgrade Window Tint Fake Manual Transmission Mod 10" BAMufflers Stainless Catback Engine Block Heater Illuminated Ignition Key Ring Mod Deck Rail System w/cleats
    Sounds like it ate a vacuum cleaner. I think looking for a bearing is still the right path. FWIW, my mobile OBD reader is an OBDLink MX Bluetooth Scan Tool, that way I can use my phone and always have it with my in my man-purse.
     
    Lowcountrytj likes this.
  20. Jan 19, 2017 at 6:43 AM
    #20
    Black Wolf

    Black Wolf Addicted to petrified wood apparently

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2014
    Member:
    #378
    Messages:
    34,606
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Matt
    Aurora CO
    Vehicle:
    2014 Blaaaaack, 5.7L DC Limited TRD 4X4
    Zone UCA's, Fat Bob's Vated, Pro Form Fab shackles, Patagonia M/T's, Ranch Hand Grill Guard, RC steps, SDHQ AIP relocation kit, RetraxONE MX, Jomax ABS armor
    You are not having his problem are you? [​IMG]
     
    TruckyTruck and joonbug like this.
  21. Jan 20, 2017 at 6:34 AM
    #21
    Lowcountrytj

    Lowcountrytj Buford T. Justice

    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2016
    Member:
    #4911
    Messages:
    321
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Phillip
    SE GA
    Vehicle:
    2008 Tundra DC, SC
    Wow...Yeah that baby sounds like a circular saw. Any luck yet?
     
  22. Jan 20, 2017 at 12:14 PM
    #22
    joonbug

    joonbug bacon

    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2015
    Member:
    #1948
    Messages:
    16,006
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Joon
    NorCal - Dublin
    Vehicle:
    2020 Limited DoubleCab
    ohhhh... engine wine... got it. :D
     
  23. Jan 28, 2017 at 9:35 PM
    #23
    Spvrtan

    Spvrtan [OP] Amateur fabricator

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2015
    Member:
    #1140
    Messages:
    1,643
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Kris
    San Diego, CA
    Vehicle:
    Black '14 CM SR5 w/ SC; 40s on 17s; 5.29s
    Finally got a few hours of daylight and time to do more investigation, while waiting for potential replacement parts to come in, and here's an update..

    More importantly, it does seem like I have two separate problems since washing the engine bay with degreaser and water: whining sound and battery voltage.

    The alternator doesn't even have any signs of mud on it nor did it get any of the degreaser/water dripping down it..

    inv_alternator.jpg

    I cleaned the battery terminals and body ground with an acid neutralizer and wire brush; then put some protective battery grease on them..

    inv_terminals.jpg

    I've used a stethoscope and tube method to pinpoint the sound toward these two pulleys (the supercharger idler and #1 idler)..

    inv_pulleys.jpg

    ..is the supercharger idler the same as the tensioner idler? I couldn't find information on that online or on the forums. Here are the replacement parts that came in that I may or may not need to use..

    inv_replacements.jpg

    ..and lastly here are the results of testing the battery with a voltage meter (I need to get around to testing the voltage directly from the alternator as I think that should tell me if the alternator is good if it reads ~13v)..

    inv_battery.jpg

    ..anyone have any other thoughts after the new information?
     
  24. Jan 28, 2017 at 9:49 PM
    #24
    ColoradoTJ

    ColoradoTJ So there I was.... Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2016
    Member:
    #2766
    Messages:
    23,616
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Chris
    Colorado
    Your alternator should be putting out 13.8-14.5V....FYI. At 13V...you are at rock bottom and system cannot keep up.

    When loaded readings, were you at 2000 rpm to get the voltage regulator working? Did the voltage fluctuate if you rev'd the motor higher (makes the volatage regulator work more) and get reading above 13V or did it stay the same or drop?
     
  25. Jan 28, 2017 at 10:01 PM
    #25
    Vizsla

    Vizsla New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 14, 2016
    Member:
    #3867
    Messages:
    2,124
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Dave
    Arizona
    Vehicle:
    2018 Cement Crewmax
    Operating range is 13.3-13.8v ish, you will see 14v+ on cold starts. Your operating range is 12-13v, no good, probably alternator. Battery seems ok, but I would get it tested as well. Alternator will kill the battery fast.
     
  26. Jan 28, 2017 at 11:29 PM
    #26
    Spvrtan

    Spvrtan [OP] Amateur fabricator

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2015
    Member:
    #1140
    Messages:
    1,643
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Kris
    San Diego, CA
    Vehicle:
    Black '14 CM SR5 w/ SC; 40s on 17s; 5.29s
    The loaded readings were just with the engine running and no pedal. I've been driving the truck around for a week since it started happening and the dash meter never drops below here it is in the picture (the blue line is where it is when the engine is off) nor goes up. I have an alternator that came in yesterday I can swap in; it's the highest one (150a) and came off a junked '15 Tundra (crash) that only had 19k miles on it. Should I go get that tested before swapping it in, too (and what shops could do that)?

    inv_meter.jpg
     
  27. Jan 29, 2017 at 3:36 AM
    #27
    Vizsla

    Vizsla New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 14, 2016
    Member:
    #3867
    Messages:
    2,124
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Dave
    Arizona
    Vehicle:
    2018 Cement Crewmax
    Loaded the way you tested is fine, you still should see 13.3v+. The electronics in your truck will be wacky without enough voltage, and you will probably see some wierd stuff like the wacked out dash reading. Advance, Autozone, Napa, etc. can test alternators and batteries, it helps if they run the tests 3 times.
     
  28. Jan 29, 2017 at 4:27 AM
    #28
    650h1

    650h1 New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2014
    Member:
    #51
    Messages:
    560
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2013 Rock Warrior C/M
    Replace your PCV valve. Mine was whistling, it was the old PCV valve that I'm assuming had never been changed. It's inexpensive and takes less than 10 mins.
     
  29. Jan 29, 2017 at 4:56 AM
    #29
    ColoradoTJ

    ColoradoTJ So there I was.... Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2016
    Member:
    #2766
    Messages:
    23,616
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Chris
    Colorado
    I gave you my advice. Ronnie Mac out....braaaaappppp.
     
    Spvrtan [OP] and T-Rex266 like this.
  30. Jan 29, 2017 at 1:05 PM
    #30
    Spvrtan

    Spvrtan [OP] Amateur fabricator

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2015
    Member:
    #1140
    Messages:
    1,643
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Kris
    San Diego, CA
    Vehicle:
    Black '14 CM SR5 w/ SC; 40s on 17s; 5.29s
    I got a video of voltage testing while revving the engine, it looks like the alternator is charging fine..

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8VVtjksjB4

    ..the dash panel voltage meter still reads bad (see picture I posted previously) at idle and all RPM ranges. Is that the voltage regulator? I don't think it's a alternator fuse because the volt meter wouldn't read "charging." I thought about trying the jumper cable from alternator positive to battery positive test but that only tests a bad alternator fuse, which is good now since I'm getting a 14.5v reading above 2,000rpm.

    Went to my local AutoZone and and they said their system can only test the 100a Tundra alternator as they don't have the 130 and 150 in the database or something. Knowing that the alternator is indeed charging, where should I move to next? The voltage regulator (isn't that also inside the alternator)? A bad ground (I cleaned both battery terminals and one body ground next to the battery)? Where are the other grounds in the engine bay (engine block, other body grounds)?

    I heard it's a bitch to replace with the Tundras though because it's under the intake manifold. Now that I'm almost 100% sure that I have two separate issues (whining and voltage) I believe the whining is one of the idler pulleys being dry from the degreaser/water getting around the bearing. I'll get around to swapping that out soon as it isn't as important as the voltage issue.
     

Products Discussed in

To Top