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Engine swap.

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by Vtgrizz, Aug 3, 2016.

  1. Aug 3, 2016 at 6:31 PM
    #1
    Vtgrizz

    Vtgrizz [OP] New Member

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    Hi guys, I have a couple questions for the group..

    last year I bought a 2008 tundra with the 5.7 off a customer of mine..she had overheated it and ruined the engine..it sat outside my shop till I bought a replacement engine from lkq last week for $4000. ( not too pleased with the damage on the motor) . This is the most labor intense engine swap I think Ive ever done.lol.

    my question is, where on earth are the lifting points on this 5.7 and more importantly, the engine measures too long to pull out,do i have to remove the crosspiece over the radiator with th hoodlatch on it?? Thanks so much.Todd.
     
  2. Aug 4, 2016 at 7:51 AM
    #2
    Wynnded

    Wynnded What MPG...

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    My suggestion would be to DM ViktorG over at TundraTalk.net. I know that I'm sending you to another forum, but he's a Lexus tech and has had his engine out twice in as many months. He's probably a touch busy, but he'll have the process down. My Haynes manual says that there are two brackets that bolt to the top of the engine for lift points (part#s 12281-31060 and 12282-31040). I see no mention of removing the crosspiece over the radiator, but it does talk of removing a lot of item attached to the block, including the starter, which seems odd, but....
     
  3. Aug 4, 2016 at 10:59 AM
    #3
    LOTSOFTOYS

    LOTSOFTOYS Toyota Whisperer

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    There are special hooks that bolt into the cylinder header heads from toyota for lifting. Toyota designed it to barely fit coming out the top with the torque converter still bolted on. I had a locked up one and it cleared the rad support by a c*nt hair and the tc barely the windsheild
     
    equin and TundrA145 like this.
  4. Aug 4, 2016 at 6:24 PM
    #4
    Vtgrizz

    Vtgrizz [OP] New Member

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    Thanks guys..Ive spent days after work unhooking stuff, removing an exhaust manifold to get the starter out is crazy! I wsa afraid I would have to purchase some special lifting hook, im thinkin of making a couple plates and bolting them to the intake mount..My plan is to unbolt the torque converter thru the starter hole, and leave the torque converter in place..did u remove yours because it was locked up?? When I measure the engine from front to back,it measures approx 27 inches or so,and the gap is like 24-25. If i rember rite.(im inside for the nite). I sure hope u are rite and it fits,but i dont see how at all..
     
  5. Aug 5, 2016 at 6:06 AM
    #5
    Nor7

    Nor7 Chilton Manual Guy

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    Sorry, just saw this. See attached.
     

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  6. Aug 5, 2016 at 6:08 AM
    #6
    Nor7

    Nor7 Chilton Manual Guy

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    Some of the sections (bold) have their own sections so let me know if you'd like those.
     
  7. Aug 5, 2016 at 1:10 PM
    #7
    Vtgrizz

    Vtgrizz [OP] New Member

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    Wow,thats a lot of info.thanks so much, i couldnt see where it says to remove the upper radiator support,so thats good, but ive got everything disconnected and ready to pull it, and now see on ur info it says to pull the trans first? Im gonna try and leave the trans in place, i cannot see from here y i would need to go that route? Any ideas? All i have left is to unbolt the flex plate, the bellhousing bolts and the two motor mounts..i think i will tackle that in the am when i can get a few extra hands. Im a bit concerned that my old hoist will handle this behemouth.lol. i used my two post lift to get the new one out of my truck, but i put my engine crane on it to move it in my shop,it worked ok,but i didnt lift it as high as its gonna have to go to get this out. This forum is a big help, o, and i saw the two lift hooks in ur manual as well, i found the two 14 mm holes they bolt to,so im gonna use two grade 8 bolts and bolt down my own lift chains.shood be a snap.
     
  8. Aug 20, 2016 at 8:41 PM
    #8
    Vtgrizz

    Vtgrizz [OP] New Member

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    Nor7, do you have the camshaft tightening sequence and torque specs for this 5.7?
     
  9. Aug 20, 2016 at 8:59 PM
    #9
    Nor7

    Nor7 Chilton Manual Guy

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    Hang tight, I'll check.
     
  10. Aug 20, 2016 at 9:21 PM
    #10
    Nor7

    Nor7 Chilton Manual Guy

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    Let me know what you need from here. Responded to your PM as well.
     

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  11. Aug 21, 2016 at 7:06 AM
    #11
    Nor7

    Nor7 Chilton Manual Guy

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    See attached?

    Torque


    for inside position
    ft. lbs

    45


    for outside position
    ft. lbs

    20


    If any of the main bearing cap bolts do not meet the specified torque, replace it.
     

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  12. Aug 21, 2016 at 7:15 AM
    #12
    Nor7

    Nor7 Chilton Manual Guy

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    I FOUND IT!!

    Starts at item 21 on the attached.
     

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  13. Nov 30, 2018 at 7:32 AM
    #13
    Vmo

    Vmo New Member

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    Did you leave tranny in..doing the same thing on 08 tundra with 4.7..
     
  14. Nov 30, 2018 at 8:39 AM
    #14
    Opus5150

    Opus5150 Terminal Lance

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    Watch the exhaust studs when shoehorning the motor back in. We ruined an expensive windshield when the engine and hoist got away from us for a second.
     
  15. Nov 30, 2018 at 9:12 AM
    #15
    Vmo

    Vmo New Member

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    Thanks
     
  16. Feb 4, 2019 at 1:20 PM
    #16
    Blown TRD

    Blown TRD New Member

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    Getting ready to tackle the same project, were you able to leave the Trans in?
     
  17. Feb 4, 2019 at 2:51 PM
    #17
    Vmo

    Vmo New Member

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    Yes..no problem..take out cowl and wiper assembly and you hAve plenty of room..just be careful with windshield...
     
    Blown TRD likes this.
  18. Jan 1, 2020 at 1:56 PM
    #18
    Cody010393

    Cody010393 New Member

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    New motor 105k
    Has anyone ever have an issue when they replaced old motor with a new to where they had to have the ecm reflashed?? Im having an issues with the new motor itll idle and run bit very gutless and deff has a rough idle and acceleration is not there deff a miss as if its not running off all 8 cylinders if i put ot to the floor it lags as in if maybe a fuel issue possibly injector . But motor was garrenteed to run fine when I purchased the motor im waiting to run a test on it tomorrow. Any input on these motor replacements would be appreciated thanks. I was told it might not be registering to the new motor
     
  19. Jan 1, 2020 at 7:18 PM
    #19
    Wynnded

    Wynnded What MPG...

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    I think that the engine, ECU and ignition key all have to match or it won't pass the built in security check and then it won't even turn over. If you have it started and running there's something else wrong and you should see a Check Engine Light and you'll need to pull the codes.
     
  20. Jan 1, 2020 at 8:14 PM
    #20
    huntertn

    huntertn New Member

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    Did put in a complete engine or did you swap over your fuel system and such? Is the replacement engine the same type ( ie flexfuel vs nonflexfuel)?

    Is it throwing any codes?
     
  21. Jan 23, 2020 at 3:56 PM
    #21
    hotrod5670

    hotrod5670 New Member

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    Hey, do you have step 35 "remove automatic transmission assembly"?
    Appreciate the help and information. Just started an engine replacement on a 2007 TRD supercharged 5.7. It's looking like it will be a real project....
     
  22. Jan 24, 2020 at 7:39 PM
    #22
    still in school

    still in school New Member

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    dang, i came in hoping for pictures or a DIY
     
  23. Jun 19, 2020 at 9:00 AM
    #23
    SlowTundra

    SlowTundra New Member

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    Hi guys, Does anyone know if you can swap a 5th digit W engine in a 5th digit V truck?
     

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