Engine swap

Long story short, engine was started with no oil then something seized and engine died. Next day with oil engine started but after a few hours developed a severe knock that sounds like an upper knock, maybe a rod in the right head.
Question: First shop said needs an $12k motor swap.
I've swapped motors on smaller engines and done upper end rebuilds but haven't worked on this truck much.
I've read that this isn't a super easy vehicle to do a motor change in so I'm thinking about starting by pulling heads to see if I can get lucky and find the problem there, but still won't know if there's been other lower end damage....
Just looking for advice on what direction y'all would go.
(and the initial oil issue was caused by a son thinking he was helping by doing an oil change but was waiting on me to put in new oil in the morning but didn't let me know before I hopped in and drove off‍♂️)

 

Can’t help much but I wanted to say sorry that happened and good luck.

 

Good used engines can be bought for $3k-$5k depending on mileage. Labor to install is another story.

Maybe see what a shop would charge if you provide an engine.

 

Buy a used complete engine. Install yourself. By the time you disassemble yours, take risk of reassembly and replacing damaged parts you will well exceed cost of used engine. You can probably swap engine out in weekend. Rebuild I could see taking weeks, what a headache...

 

Buy used or spend $6500 and build it up and never sell it...and then boost it...

 

do you have any suggestions on where to buy from?

 

Go to www.car-part.com it’s a database of inventory in a lot of salvage yards.

You can put in year make model and search by zip for complete engines ect. Some will show a number in the milage column some won’t. If you find one call the yard and ask about it.

I personally would try to find one within a few hours from you and go look at it/pickup in person before paying.

Ask for a VIN for the truck the engine came from spend $30 bucks on a Carfax to see some history of its life.

A lot of (not all) salvage yards are sketchy but be smart, cash talks with these kind of guys

 

You can also call a local to you salvage yard and ask if they have one. They might not but a lot of these guys buy from each other and have access to each other’s inventory. They might say I can get one from xyz down the road. They would buy it’s for $3k and charge you $4k. This is probably how your shop was going to get one.

If you can cut out all the middlemen and go straight to the guy who has one you can save a lot of money.

 

If you find one you might call your local Toyota dealer and ask what their labor rate is. A tech told me about a year ago the book calls for about 14 hrs of labor to remove and replace an engine.

If you supply the engine, Toyota might be a fair option to replace it for you. Assuming they don’t try to upcharge the crap out of you. Most shops will mark up the engine cost pretty high. You only want to pay for labor and supplies for the swap, source your own engine.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/304684919492

https://www.ebay.com/itm/304683543785?epid=7015891709

https://www.ebay.com/itm/154904166467

 

Another option is coparts.com...I've purchased several cars, drove them home, and pull the engine amd harnesses...

 

I have been into almost every Copart in Texas for work. So many cool things hidden in there.

Did you have to use a broker or have a license to buy from them? I was always under the impression the general public can’t just walk up and buy an entire car.

IAA the same, very similar to Copart just a different brand name.

 

I set up an account but it took longer then I expected and the cars I was after were closing fast...had a shop in town buy it for me thru his account and I gave him an extra $100 cash and it worked well...

I'm a big fan of coparts for sure...

 

The dream is to be wealthy with a large shop and just be scoring wrecked cars out of Copart. Want to swap a 60 model C10 pickup, buy a wrecked corvette from Copart and have at it.

The amounts of things a man could build are endless. I always see cool stuff every-time I’m in the yard.


Someone got a hell of a deal on a Raptor in Houston a month or so ago. It was being the sold the day after I was there.

 

co-worker did a full salvage swap for 8k.

still runs good.

he had 260k on the orig engine...his dad drove it like a meth'd up bank robber...then, the son drove it like a meth'd up bank robber.
then, one day, just after starting it cold...it threw a piece thru the side of the block idling - no oil mess. dude had a dry sump - didn't add oil.

 

The rules for who is allowed to buy what vary by state.

In AZ a regular person can buy a car at a copart auction. I've got a parts car for the wifes junker in front of the house i grabbed for 350, left front end damaged, ran was 90k miles. 06 hyundai. not worth fixing. Now i have a bucket of parts!

 

Do not buy anything rebuilt from anyone, unless it's Toyota and they will cover all costs associated in the case of buying a bad rebuild (including installation labor).

I have never purchased a good rebuilt engine or transmission, ever.

 

I'm going through the same thing right now. Expect to pay at least $6,700 for a decent low-ish mileage 5.7. This engine is crazy expensive and there aren't many low-mileage ones out there. Add another $300-$500 to that for the other parts you need to do the swap the right way. (Water pump, thermostat, exhaust manifold gaskets, spark plugs, oil, filter, coolant, etc.)

Shop labor rates everywhere have gone up significantly over the past few years so $10-12k isn't too surprising.

 

Well I sourced a motor and am about ready to finally get to work on her... does anyone have any recommendations on guides/videos or prefer a certain manual?

 

Take pictures as you pull things apart then look at the pictures in reverse order as you put things back together. Engine swaps are usually pretty straight forward, you've got this!

 

Great idea, thanks, I'll definitely do that! I'm not too worried, just open to hearing any tips or issues others have dealt with on this job... I know it's going to be tight coming out the top, too bad the front radiator bracket is spot welded on, I'd pull the whole front end if it wasn't.

 

This may help on a 2013..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H28e4rtmDUk&ab_channel=BertsFordFactory

 

Get plenty of zip loc bags, post it notes, sharpie, different colors and sizes or zip ties and tapes and cardboard. Zip loc bags for small parts and post it notes to go inside, different zip ties and tapes for any wire connections or hoses taken apart, i.e., green to green, red goes to red etc. It's fine to use the same color for two obviously different types of connections since a hose isn't going to connect to a wire harness. Take the cardboard and draw shapes like exhaust manifolds and poke holes to hold bolts once removed. Take 10x the pictures you think you may ever need from multiple angles. Sometimes it hard to determine the exact placement of wires etc. Viewing these pictures will help. Remove the keys and tag NO OIL.

 

OP - where are you located? Another member may be nearby.

 

Thanks all, that's pretty much exactly what I've been doing so far... I feel like she's actually coming along pretty well! It looks like there is just enough room to slide her forward about 2" to detach from the transmission and up and out now that the radiator is removed. It's going to be tight with the oil pan against the differential though.
I've read that it is possible to remove the engine only by lowering and supporting the transmission in place with a jack. But the Haynes manual says to "remove transmission" in 4WD models. Does anyone know if this is possible? I'll take any advice at all concerning the disconnect from tranny and/or what other engine parts (ac compressor, per steering, etc) that I should remove before trying to hoist out. I have an overhead chain hoist so I'm assuming that will be a little easier than a standard engine jack/hoist...

 

I just replaced my 5.7 w/ 4wd last month. Leave the transmission in place. Remove the cowl and radiator. If you still need more room to clear the radiator support take the front wheels off and rest the front cross member on low jackstands.

 

I had the remove the front driveshaft to get access to all of the bell housing bolts and wiring harness plugs. Totally disconnect the wiring harness from the transmission and pull it all past the firewall to the top of the engine before lifting it out.

 

Awesome, thank you!! I was definitely planning on trying my hardest to leave the x-mission supported in place.
I've got everything disconnected/removed, just finishing the dang wire harness.... is there anything else you recommend removing like the AC compressor or power steering pump? Ive got the right exhaust and starter out. Can I leave the left exhaust manifold?

 

Also, what parts do you recommend replacing while the engine is out? Obviously things like water pump, tensioners, exhaust and transmission seals... just anything else to think about to get on order before I drop in the new motor in the next week or two?

 

Make sure your alternator is in good working order, they are a beast to replace with the motor in. Or so I’ve heard….