Electrical issue

I have a 2011 tundra and when I bought it there was a added push button start , well I had to get the transmission replaced and when I got my truck back the shop had disconnected the button and put back the regular ignition. Every thing was ok then the other day my sub ground wire touched the remote wire and the truck stopped working I had it towed to the toyota dealership and they said it was just the starter relay and that was it I got my truck back and it died on me again when I hit a bump it wont turn over no clicking. The clock, windsheild wiper,headlights and cig plug work but nothing else. I think it might have something to do with the anti-theft system but not sure at all can someone please tell me what you think it is.

 

Check your tail lights. You may have blown the fuse to them and the truck is in one of its safety modes.

If the tail lights are not working the truck won't start. Its a possibility.

Another thing you can try is if you can locate the starter relay (the one that the shop was talking about) see if you can swap it with another one that is the same type.

 

The tail lights are on and the relay was fine its confusing.

 

Electrical isn't my strong suit so other than relays, positive and especially negative battery connections my next step would be to try and diagnos the starter.

Possible bad connection between battery and starter.

Possible blown inline fuse between battery and starter.

Possible bad starter.

 

Here's a decent write up of a no crank diagnosis. Its not tundra specific but covers a lot of the common issues

https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/280416/truck+not+starting,has+power+but+not+turnover+sound

Number 3 below fits your symptoms but I'd go through the post in full though.

1. Bad battery or low charge, or bad connections at the battery terminals. If the terminals are full of white snowy looking stuff disconnect them and clean them up. If a terminal is loose (you can turn it with your hand) tighten it. Check the battery voltage. A fully charged car battery would read about 12.6 VDC. 12.3V is 50% charged. Less than that and you will quite often have a starting problem. Even if the battery voltage seems OK you should try jumping the truck to see if it'll start - a failing battery may have a reasonable voltage readout but very little capacity available, making it unable to start the vehicle.

2. No power to the starter motor or a defective starter motor. What's called the "starter" has 2 power connections - a large wire that provides power to the starter motor, and a smaller wire that powers the starter solenoid. When the key is turned to start the solenoid will engage the gear on the starter with the ring gear on the flywheel as well as trigger the starter motor to begin turning. If there's no power to the starter motor but power everywhere else you'd hear a "click!" noise when you turned to start but nothing else - ie. no whirring or cranking noises. If you don't hear that click (you might need someone to stand outside with the hood up to hear it) go to #2. The cause of this problem is usually one of 3 things - a failed starter motor, a bad connection between the battery and starter motor, or a blown fuse (if present) in line between the starter and the battery. A test for DC voltage between a ground point (eg. battery negative terminal or the engine block) and the large wire on the starter can diagnose a blown fuse (it will read 0V) but it can't be used to indicate if the connection or starter are ok. The simplest way to diagnose that problem is to clean the battery terminals and the large starter terminal (MAKE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY + TERMINAL BEFORE DISCONNECTING THE STARTER CABLE OR YOU COULD GET A SEVERE BURN). If it still isn't starting take the starter off and have it tested (you can test it yourself if you can mount the starter somehow so it won't jump, connect jumper cables to the battery with the - cable going to the metal body/frame of the starter and the + connected to the big starter terminal AND the small solenoid terminal at the same time - but be forewarned that if the starter isn't firmly mounted it'll jump like crazy and can hurt you!).

3. If the starter isn't clicking you have a problem in the starting circuit that drives the solenoid. Start by disconnecting the solenoid wire (the small one) from the starter. Use a voltmeter to test for DC voltage between that wire and a ground connection (battery - terminal or the engine block) when the ignition is turned to Start. Make sure you're getting good, solid connections to ground and the wire or you'll get a false result. If you don't get around +12V there's a problem earlier in the circuit. Go to step #3. If you do get +12V clean the terminal on the starter and the cable and reconnect them and try again. If it still doesn't start you've got a bad starter solenoid.

4. Unfortunately this step requires a wiring diagram. In it's most basic form the way the starting circuit works is this:

Battery==>Ignition Switch START switch==>Starter Solenoid

However, all vehicles add other things in the circuit, with modern vehicles sometimes being very complicated. A (simplified) example would be:

Battery==>Anti-Theft==>Autostart==>Ignition Switch==> Engine Control Unit ==> Starter Solenoid

With fuses and other items in there as well, and with a number of parallel connections being made (eg. the ECU would also trigger the fuel pump, fuel shut off, etc. before triggering the starter).

The way it would be diagnosed is to follow the wiring diagram from the battery up through the ignition switch and out to the starter solenoid. There should be 12V at each point along the way (after the ignition switch the 12V would be present when the switch was turned to START). When you find the first point with no voltage the previous component is the problem area. However, if the problem is at the ECU or the Anti-Theft or Autostart the actual problem may be in a completely different circuit altogether - eg. it's not uncommon for some aftermarket autostart system to prevent a car from starting if the hood switch is damaged or not working correctly.


Hopefully you can find something helpful in the above.

 

I'd look under the steering column shroud and make sure that none of the wires there are partially disconnected or touching one another. That is where the wiring for the push button start lives and if the wires aren't connected correctly, you will not be able to start the truck. Hope you figure it out!

 

It sounds to me that there's a loose wire somewhere. It shorted something and a fuse opened. Maybe start by going through ALL the fuses under the hood and under the dash just above the parking brake.

 

I have checked all areas that have been mentioned and I found that a mouse had got into the fuse box and ate the coating . Hopefully this is the issue. Does anyone have a picture or know which wires go where on the fusable link. Completely spaced out marking them.

 

Oh, that's harsh. There are far too many posts about mice noshing on Toyota wiring harnesses.

 

Post a pic of the area you are talking about so we will know which area it is.