Droop/Down travel question

Hi everyone, long time lurker, first time poster here.
I recently installed Solo's stock length LCA with the octagon alignment bolts on my 06 doublecab and ran into something interesting. It seems the stock LCA allows for about 1.75in more droop than the Solo arms therefore limiting my suspension travel. I know not many are running these LCAs yet but has anyone experienced this problem too? For setup I'm running 6112s with 700lb springs on the highest circlip setting for the doublecab and no front swaybar.
I went with the Solo's because they move the lower ball joint forward an inch giving me the ability to run ~35in tires without having to cut and tub the firewall. I went with 700lb springs because I'll have a Brute Force bumper coming soon and a winch to go with it along with more armor down the road.

 

I still have the same travel, if not more. @alb1k same travel for you?

Good luck getting 35's to "fit"!

 

I have a DC with the Solo LCAs. I certainly didn't see a droop limit decrease, my kings determine my limit though. No way you get 35's under there and don't hit under compression and or turns.

 

How is your alignment?

 

Yup.

 

Yeah the 285s clear at full stuff with plenty of space left over so I'm hoping with once I do the pinch weld mod it'll be enough to clear either 35x10.5s or 315/70R17s with the right offset and backspacing.

 

Alignment is good to go, 6° of caster and about 0.12° of toe. I know the toe is supposed to be ~0.24° but it tracks and steers great as is.

 

Here’s 6* caster, solo lca’s, and 2.5” lift:


Save yourself the time and money and go with 285/75’s, trust me.

 

At full stuff my 285s will rub my tub. They burnt holes in my liners and I trimmed my fenders because I bashed one of those. I'm running toyos

 

How are you determining full stuff?

 

There goes my hope of not having to do fiberglass fenders. I have 285/75s on already, Nokian Outpost ATs. I want the 35s for a tiny bit more ground clearance, improvement of approach, breakover, and departure angles, and improved floatation when aired down.
The droop issue is still bugging me, after work I'll try removing the shock and cycling the suspension to see if it's binding anywhere or if my droop changes without the shocks in place.

 

And, did you install the coilovers when you did the LCAs? Or did you have those on there before at that setting?

 

Ran it up a ramp at a car dealer. And I had the coilovers on with the same settings for about 3 months before adding the LCAs.

 

Great call. Also, remember the bump stops will compress more under a dynamic load, so expect some more compression than static cycling will show.

 

Like an articulation test? Expect more compression when you drop into a big dip or land hard on them.

 

Yeah like an articulation test, I haven't had time to get it out on the trails yet this year to see how it'll perform in the real world post mods.

 

That's pretty much what I do - get it where I think it's going to be, then run it, make adjustments. But the coilovers out will tell you a lot.

 

35s are great. No need for fiberglass fenders if you don't want, just need to remove the coilover, cycle suspension and steering, and trim or hammer everything in the way of the tire.

 

Apparently both of us didn’t trim or hammer enough

 

I guess, lol. Here’s my static stuff no coil over on 285s. This is before I did the same to my fender as you, on a turn I think?


This is probably 1”+ shy of full compression and I’m not turning the wheel out much. This wasn’t enough to blow the fender, that was a later trip.

 

I have one like that. I think I pushed it in a touch before taking the picture.


here are my fenders now

 

I wish that was my reason. I used to be a little more stupid. Haha.

And no, this was not wheel spacer fault. All of the threads were good thought the studs were bent from riding along the inside of the wheel. I didn't properly torque the wheel lugs.

 

Am I not seeing what I think I see? Back tire is stuffed into the rear wheel well. Acts like a surface brake against all the portion of the tire that touches. Absolutely will limit tire movement. If it's "incidental" contact at speed, may be no big problem and noticeable only by sound, or signs of wear on tire or inside wheel well. But trying to do a technical trail, I can say from experience, that significant hang up will stop the truck if that's the tire with traction you need to clear an obstacle.

Edit: maybe you don't have the same uptravel as me, so your wheels to reach the inside of the well-? Looks probably they do though.

 

100% this. Happened to me during an articulation section.

 

Ouch!

 

I've been contemplating a small 1in body lift to give more clearance on up travel.
Does anyone know what the droop measurement is from hub center to fender both stock and with aftermrket UCAs?

 

https://youtube.com/@TinkerersAdventure


you guys will want to watch a few of these videos. Shows some great info on control arms ext shocks etc for our the Toyota ifs. You’re seeing minimal gains maybe .50-1” of travel maybe 1.5” and that’s being generous

 

That's freaking crazy. Glad you're alright, looks like it happened in a good spot

 

Definitely a great channel, I've enjoyed his content allot.

 

I do not recall hearing any rubbing sounds; but this was before I upgraded rear bumpstops to Durobumps and swapped out rear shock for Bilstein B110 which has limited my uptravel and doesn't rub when static testing. Here's what it looks with Durobumps and B110





I am in the process of installing the rear fiberglass and don't recall seeing any rub marks on the fenders or bolts even. I have had rubbing issues on previous vehicles so I definitely understand the hang ups or worse; slicing tires from the sheet metal fenders.

This actually happened to my wife; thank you though! She handled it like a champ, just rode the truck maybe 200-300ft until she could turn into this street. We were super fortunate no one was driving in the oncoming lane as the tire bounced across all 4 lanes.