Door Speakers

You may have missed this part....

 

Assuming you were quoting me, get new speaker wire connect it to the back of the stereo, run it under the dash and then through the door to the speaker.

I'd recommend on getting on youtube and watching videos on speaker wiring. Also look for your truck specifically, that's what I did when I replaced mine.

 

Yep, was typing when he posted it.

@BubbaW you always seem to have all the wiring diagrams and I have a hell of a time with factory wiring diagrams. I worked in the audio industry for quiet a few years, so I can try to decipher what happened if I understand the factory wiring in DC (I have an AC)

Do you have anything that tells us whether DC trucks w/JBL sound system have the front door tweeter and mid wired in series or parallel?

@Dlormand if you took it to a place and they worked on it, then this is how things were after, it's not your fault. And this is what I'm asking BubbaW about. There's two ways your front door speakers could be wired. It's in-parallel or in-series. These pictures will help.

Depending on where the front speaker wires got cut, you can break the circuit to the other speaker. Study the diagram for a second and it might make sense why that is, if not, I can draw some extra lines and explain it.

 

And really, I think this may be the winner. Just go to Best Buy or something and get a roll of wire, then wire your speakers directly.

But the hassle of pulling interior panels and fishing wires through the rubber channels in the door is not fun for most people.

@Dlormand do you have a receipt of everything you got from Rickyworld or whatever, so we can see if they used an amp bypass kit?

And can you remind us again, in case I missed it - are you saying the front midranges didn't work before, and still don't work after you had the new stuff installed?

 

You may have missed the pic I posted earlier if that will help !

 

My 06 Tundra DC Limited JBL factory system had 8 speakers and a 6 channel amp located behind the back seat on the drivers side. Check to see if you have or had one.

 

I did catch that one. I'll be honest, my eyes suck and I can't read the tiny print. When I zoom in, the part that's stumping me is why this loopback exists between the high and mids (boxed in orange).

The woofer is being fed with its own positive and negative source, as is the tweeter; why are they then bridging between the two speakers (unless the speakers are DVC, but I highly doubt it)? Or am I reading this wrong? I swear my fronts were in parallel, and the split was a few inches above the woofer opening:

 

I was wondering the same.

 

C'mon man, I thought you were the aspiring EE here?

If it's not DVC, and they're actually wiring it that way, they're looping FL+ back wo WFL-, likewise looping FL- back to WFL+. I'm wondering if this is just the way they had to draw it in order to make sense on paper, and maybe that "junction connector" sitting between the amp and driver isn't actually a "Y" split where they're forking off to run the drivers in parallel.

If that's the case and OP cut the wrong side of the split, that's where all the fuckaroo is happening at.

I also agree with @weadjust though, and @Dlormand should check to see if his factory amp is still back there in the rear of the truck, and the harness is plugged in. It would help remove one more piece of the puzzle.

 

The way it's shown, there should be 4 connections on the woofer and tweeter. And I'm almost 100% positive they're not dvc. If they do a Y on wire diagrams it'll usually be a T and go to each speaker. That diagram is very strange...

 

I mean, they call it a "junction connector" though. What else could it be splitting/joining? I don't recall there being a crossover on mine. That diagram is what left me scratching my head, like, maybe the double cab trucks are wired different than the access and regular cabs.

I've still got my OEM cabling, I'm gonna go dig it out of the bin. I didn't have JBL and haven't seen the OEM JBL driver but now I'm curious.

 

Here you go. This is just how my front-left and front-right door was setup - using a "Y". Basically, two wires fed into the door on each side, and terminated at a plastic connector attached to the door shell. From there, these Y adapters were installed. The smaller male connector went to the woofer, the larger female connector went to the tweeter.

But again, I have the amplified 6spk system but not the JBL edition, and these wires only match one side of the diagram @BubbaW posted.

 

And my concern is this: If @Dlormand 's truck is the same setup with a "Y" split like mine, a blown channel on the amp would take out BOTH front speakers. It wouldn't make sense the tweeter is working but the woofer isn't if his uses the same wiring.

Because the wiring is the same color before AND after the "Y", someone inexperienced with these trucks could easily cut the wires on the right-hand side of the connector, before the "Y" and .... guess what? Only one speaker is gonna work.

But then again, we still haven't gotten @Dlormand to answer whether the woofer was not putting out sound before and after the installation.

I actually upgraded to my JBL components because my front driver tweeter wasn't working. I got into the door only to find out someone else in there before me just forgot to plug the connector back in.

 

shifty , Yep that's exactly what I had in my AC, I recognize the factory PN# tag. I threw all that crap away, tested the feed line back to the output of the little amp, verified the lines were good, love a good Ohmmeter, and all worked out out sweet!

 

Update on my truck, we got the speakers working, me and my teacher. We spliced the wires into the bottom tweeter wires. Also found that I was getting no power to my stock woofers. Also they were blown and dry rotted. Another thing. My stock amp isn't connected at all. Ricky smiths actually disconnected it and left a whole bunch of wires hanging so I cleaned that up with my teacher and my system sounds great now! Thanks for the help everyone

 

It sounds like Ricky Smith's really screwed you over, @Dlormand and they're pretty hackish about stuff - I'd be pissed about that if I were you. Wouldn't doubt if they cut factory stuff to save on parts, and that's bullshit.

Chances are they didn't read the pinout correctly, and the symptom you describe is exactly what I've read from others who tried to re-pin the amp without using an amp bypass cable: You lose some channels AND you lose ability to fade front/rear and balance left/right, sometimes end up with no stereo sound separation.

If I were you, just to get this done the right way, I'd got on the horn w/Crutchfield.com to get the proper amp bypass cable and install it. I think this is it for the 2005 Tundra double cab w/JBL, but you should confirm with their free technical support team: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120708117/Metra-70-8117-Amp-Bypass-Harness.html?tp=3486

And tip from someone who used to work in the industry: Use Crutchfield.com on your future upgrades. All you do is give them your vehicle info. They have a huge, free database of what fits and doesn't fit in each variation of vehicle, what harnesses, adapters and cables you need, what bluetooth and satellite add-ons are plug-and-play with factory ... you don't even NEED to buy from them, you can look all the info up for free at their website, plan your system, then go somewhere else to buy it! But they also sell such a high volume of stuff, you often can't beat their pricing, *AND* they give you free technical support on the install by web chat, phone etc. in case you need it.

Sure - you could cut cables and crimp on new connectors ... but why bother, when Crutchfield will give you adapters that allow you to plug into the factory cable end, then into the speaker with no cutting? They spend all the money on research & development so you can take advantage of that, at no extra cost, and often at a significant savings (of time, money, tools, and frustration!)