Door lock actuators

That's funny right there

 

I've replaced 3 motors. The 4th is having intermittent problems now. I don't know why the labor is so high, I could replace an actuator in less than 30 minutes. Replacing the motor is tedious and adds another 30 minutes. Since I used the opportunity to add soundening, it's about a 4 hour effort for me.
I guess I'll have all four doors dampened soon as the heat index is only double digits.

 

toyota certainly putted out some bad door lock motors in 2012 and earlier years. I replaced all 4 door lock latches in my 2012 Camry. At that time I did not know the motors are replaceable. Lucky for me they were only $45 each from ebay.

 

My front passenger door has already been replaced. My front drivers side door is out now, and the rear drivers side door is going out. Fortunately mine are still covered under warranty. Hopefully the last door goes before the warranty is up. lol
They start off intermittently not working. When you arm the alarm and it doesn't beep, then you know one of the doors isn't locking.

 

That is how I knew it was going out. It would not beep to arm the car because one of the door will not lock. At first I thought it was the alarm brain, but then saw one of the door was not locking.

 

This was on my 2012 camry. All 4 door locks went out about the same time. I would say within 2 week period (very weird).

 

Bought Tundra new Nov. 2019 and when got home from dealership daughter noticed back passenger door not working. Failed actuator that should have been picked up on ANY DEALERSHIPS new car inspection. Literally the alarm wouldn't work because of it. But in a dozen Toyota's and well over a two million miles in 35 years its my first one to fail. Bought wife a new Chevy Volt in 2015 cause she wanted to save the planet. In 4 years and 78,500 miles had to replace drivers side door lock actuator once and window regulator three times. Passenger door lock and window regulator twice. Passenger rear window was failing when traded in(would go down but had to lift it to go up). First time in my life I ever bought an extended warranty and thank you Chevy for pushing that. In hindsight it was the best purchase I ever made cause I realize we all look at some other brand and see something we like and wonder how bad can it be. Again, thank you Chevy for fixing me like a three-nut dog and that mistake will NEVER happen again.

 

After replacing the motor in my actuator and tearing the other one down, the commutator doesn't spin enough to sling the carbon build up from the brushes, I have a thread on it somewhere on the forum, has pictures of the carbon build up, once I cleaned it, it worked again. I think I have a solution that may work for this, but wont give it a try until another actuator fails.

 

I had to replace all four in my 2014 4runner within a three week period. They ALL went out. This is a known issue with the Toyota actuators. You can try to replace the motors but for the time, effort and cost I went with the off brand actuators from Amazon. I could literally do a replacement in ten minutes by the time I replaced the 3rd and 4th ones.

 

Ok, so I have a new lock issue. I have a 2010 Tundra. I've replaced all of the actuator motors once and some, twice. It's a pain when they go out. Now I have a new issue. All went out except the driver's door. I just replaced the rear driver's side, so it's odd that it's not working. Is the driver's side a master for the other 3? Is there something other than actuator motors that could be causing this? It makes a funny sound like it's trying and the alarm makes a few beeps, but nothing unlocks except the driver's door. I welcome any suggestions.

 

The door lock actuator is a bad problem that I paid for the first time it happened around 30-50K on my 2015. After a lot of research and the second time them went out on my front doors at 130K I fixed them for $50. It is very easy to do. Ordered both acuators on Amazon for a total of $50 plus a trim pull kit from O reileys for $10. Just make sure and look at you tube videos closely on how to do it. There is one step that if you skip you cannot open your door from inside and outside and it looks like some people on the site have messed that step up. I could now pull the trim on the door, switch out the acuator and replace the trim in 20 mins.

 

My daughters went out on her 4Runner. I bought the motors and she’s supposed to bring it over tomorrow to see if we can get it going again.

 

Just replaced my motor on my drivers side 2014 and it now works, small catch is that now the door handle to the outside wont work. Did I hookup the wrong cables or something didnt get lined up inside the actuator?? The key also doesnt do anything.

 

Yep sure did. Probably need to swap em.

 

Probably this rod.

 

my neighbor just gave me 2 extra motors he had. The problem is, he says they each rotate a different way. I'm going to have to figure out a way to see which way the factory rotates and use the correct one.

 

Definitely this, made the same mistake when I installed passenger side front door lock actuator. Easy fix, just frustrating when you find it after you've put everything back together.

 

I see, well before I saw your response I switched the actuator cables and now neither of the door handles operate and the door is stuck shut..... any suggestions

 

If it won't open with either handle, a locksmith is probably your best bet.

 

If the door trim is still on the door you'll probably need to remove the seat to get the panel off so you can access the the cables and manually open the door. Its been a few years since I've had to replace both of the actuators that failed on my 14 so I'm a little rusty on specific details.

 

Update, I finagled through the lock and unhinged the cable and got the door open, switched the cables back correctly and everything’s good but the key doesn’t do anything. What do I have not lined up?

 

Unfortunately I haven't run into this problem yet. Maybe check out YouTube. Sorry to not be of any help on this one. I'd say inspect carefully though. The answer is likely there just not easily spotted.

 

You have to unbolt the lock cylinder through the round plastic plug and then pull out the lock and reinsert with the rod in the cross