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Door check mounting

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by nivfreak, Jun 13, 2019.

  1. Jun 13, 2019 at 4:03 PM
    #1
    nivfreak

    nivfreak [OP] New Member

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    I guess the previous owner lost their 10mm socket, so the decided to just cram a 16mm bolt into the void left behind.... nasty.

    The backing nut is missing from the door sil. I'm struggling to find the bolt/nut on the parts list. Does anyone know if you can get at the other side from the wheel well?

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_12b8b.jpg
     
  2. Jun 13, 2019 at 4:22 PM
    #2
    TheBeast

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  3. Jun 13, 2019 at 4:25 PM
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    handyman

    handyman New Member

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    Whoa, that is nasty. Did he tear the door off in an accident or something? Anyway, I suspect the nut was welded on at the factory (to facilitate easy removal/install of the door), so probably isn't going to show up on any parts list. You'll likely have to fabricate a solution yourself, and I don't how much you'd have to remove to get to it. Someone else will likely pipe up with more specifics.
     
    nivfreak[OP] likes this.
  4. Jun 13, 2019 at 6:25 PM
    #4
    sf319

    sf319 New Member

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    You could probably get the correct bolt from @Roman but I doubt that bolt kept the original threads intact. Might have to drill it out and put a new sheet metal fastener, I know there are some out there that you can press into a hole and it will cinch up against the sheet metal when you tighten down the bolt. I don't know how well they hold though. I was looking at some for an old creeper I have.
     
    Roman likes this.
  5. Jun 13, 2019 at 7:41 PM
    #5
    Tundra234

    Tundra234 New Member

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    Alot of them
    I would have a reputable body shop take a look at it.
     
    NewImprovedRon and nivfreak[OP] like this.
  6. Jun 13, 2019 at 8:55 PM
    #6
    SNO BUS

    SNO BUS Professional Moneywaster

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    Toyota uses lots of weldnuts. I've broken or striped a few on my 91 Land Cruiser, and I've just cut them off and put a nut and bolt in its place or widen the hole and put a nut and log bolt in its place. I don't think you can get inside the doorsill though, so this would be quite a project

    Also welcome to the forums from a fellow Washingtonian.
     
    nivfreak[OP] likes this.
  7. Jun 13, 2019 at 9:01 PM
    #7
    nivfreak

    nivfreak [OP] New Member

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    Yea, I think you're right, it's all sealed up. I probed around with some filler rod, and it's metal everywhere I can poke. I could cut it and tig weld, but I might melt the wiring in there...

    Maybe a T-bolt or nutsert would hold, it just seems ghetto...
     
  8. Jun 13, 2019 at 9:02 PM
    #8
    nivfreak

    nivfreak [OP] New Member

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    I suspect they smashed the door open enough times to break the welded nut loose, people are mean to their doors.
     
  9. Jun 14, 2019 at 4:42 AM
    #9
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Not sure on your 2010, but one can remove the lower side footwell kick panel and reach their arm around to access that spot on the 2002. Its simple to remove that panel on my year.

    You may be able to get a washer and a nut over the existing bolt from the backside and call it a day. Not much else to fix the nastiness going on there.
     
    Inquiringone likes this.
  10. Jun 14, 2019 at 8:37 AM
    #10
    nivfreak

    nivfreak [OP] New Member

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    I pulled it part way off and didn't see any access, but I'll pull it all of the way off and double check. Thanks!
     
  11. Jun 14, 2019 at 9:55 AM
    #11
    Inquiringone

    Inquiringone -Blue N Blac- an a little chrome

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    U can take the guy out of the garage, But U can’t take the garage out of the guy
    Not many yet, mostly stock.
    That area is known as the inner “A” pillar to cowling area. It’s structural for this area. The “door check” that holds the door open is located inside the door and bolts to the lower A pillar area. To replace the door check, door panel will have to come off to access it.
    The end of the door check bolt needs to screw “in” to the A pillar. The nut is captured on the inside of the A pillar on the back side of it “captured nut”
    You might be able to access it from the lower foot kick panel.
    By your picture that area looks curved outward and should be flat as the rubber door seal is next to this area.
    To fix it ,I’d do this. (Front door)
    Remove lower kick panel next to E brake, removed e brake mount, remove door check bolt. Depending on this point, if try to carefully flatten the outer A pillar mount sheet metal with a small plastic dead blow hammer or use a 2X2 X 12 piece of wood that you have duck taped a rubber cushion at the end to, as the impact point, do not concave this area.
    As far as the bolt you need to see if you can access the kick panel area, look for a rubber plug to remove and fishwire a new nut up to that area. If not you kinda stuck with the larger bolt. Do not have a bolt stick out from the A pillar as it will interfere with door closing.
    Go slow and think about your intentions before you make it worse. Reinstalled all parts taken off
    Really sorry to see this sort of hack job.
    But it might have happened on the trail :notsure: good luck sir.
    Worst case take it to a body shop and get an estimate.
     
  12. Jun 15, 2019 at 2:12 PM
    #12
    Dr_Al

    Dr_Al New Member

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    The only thing that comes to mind is "Hold my beer, I got this!" and after three cut fingers and lots of curse words it was "fixed".
     
  13. Jun 24, 2019 at 11:42 PM
    #13
    nivfreak

    nivfreak [OP] New Member

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    I ended up sinking an M8 rivet nut into the A-pillar after cleaning the hole up with an 11mm drill bit. The 13mm head of the M8 bolt I found, has just enough clearance to get a socket on. Not perfect, but much better. Thanks for all the input!
     
    SNO BUS likes this.

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