Dobinsons Suspension Review

Trying to decide between a 6112/5160 combo or IMS. My truck currently has a spacer lift up front and I’m not sure what size shackle in the back. So I was just wanting to do front coilovers and rear shocks. How would you compare the two setups? Truck is our road trip vehicle and when the girls are older we’d do more off-roading.

 

Let me preface this with the Bilstein 6112 set up was solid. I ran it for about 6 years no issues. I used it to take on the beach in NC, and run some off road trails in WV, MD and PA. No rock crawling mind you but a step up from fire roads. Dobinson's IMS is clearly a bump up from the 6112/5160 The around town ride is more firm, not harsh. I've had a chance to take it on some rutted gravel roads, and at speed 50+mph its pretty darn good. Its like the IMS "softens up" and the ride is very comfortable. I can't await to get it to the beach. I've been reading the off road reports for the beaches and it seems there is a higher volume of traffic than normal, a lot newbies not airing down getting stuck making for some seriously deep ruts that would get the 6112' bouncing pretty good and I'd ultimately have to stop completely to settle and start at an even slower speed. I'm hoping the IMS will provide more rebound/dampening control in that situation. Lastly the IMS will cost you more, the kit includes a rear leaf pack, so that part of the increase in price. But the quality is spot on, shock tube are 2.6 inches in diameter for front and rear. nice and beefy. 6 leaves in rear pack and everything looks like it received a quality powder coat, only time and use will reveal if it is.

 

Looking for opinions/ advice from anyone that has done the dobinson kit install themselves -
I’ll be ordering the 778 (strut assembled) with rear leaf pack HD AAL (120 + 121) and doing it myself. I don’t have a lot of mechanical experience; but…I am resourceful and have it set in my head that I can do this. So, just hoping to hear some insight, possible issues and complications, advice, etc - Or even any useful links and threads.
thanks!!!

 

I did the fronts and rears on mine and it was a first for me. The biggest issue where I live was rust. I soaked everything in PN blaster for a week leading to the install. Also make sure you have breaker bars plus cheater bars. This video really helped me.

https://youtu.be/KyloaYxFgU8

 

Great - thanks for the advice. I have a penetrating oil but didnt think to apply it that well in advance, good call - i purchased a hi-torque impact wrench, but also have breaker bars - its a 2016, and pretty corroded looking in some areas; hoping to avoid pulling out the reciprocating saw...
Is it doable by one person? Maybe not lifting the leaf springs, they look heavy

 

Crikky - am I going to need to upgrade my UCA with the 778 struts? supposed to be 2.5 - but reading it may be closer to 3?

 

It will almost certainly net 3" of total lift. And a shim is required on the driver side to make up for the "Tundra lean".

I'm sure you'll be okay doing the install. I did mine in a shop with a help of my brother and a friend, and I had access to a lift which is always nice, but isn't necessary. No crazy tools are needed, just some bigger sockets for some of the bolts. And yes if you do get new UCAs, which I would recommend, they are a little tricky, but really not too bad. You'll likely just need to double up wrenches to break the bolt loose since you can't easily fit a socket in there. Really just having a second set of hands to do the job makes a big difference. Honestly you'll need a second set of hands to install the leaf springs!

 

That’s actually very helpful and reassuring - ideally I’d put it on a lift - that’s probably 80% of my worry, just jacking it up properly to be safe and of course to allow for proper alignment of parts. Any suggestions re: the order of install:
Rear verses front first ?
If I order the struts assembled, there’s nothing else I’d require to install them on the first perch ?
I’ll be getting greasable pins and bushings - diff drop kit; shackles (doesn’t have to be dobinson, right? - I’m trying to minimize weight of shipping to Canada and purchase locally; but convinced that I want the dobinson susp leafs and ims system

Any other parts of the truck that could be upgraded/ tackled at the same time?

Roughly - how long in total…assuming I take my time…

 

You can start at either end, doesn't really matter. And yes if you're ordering them assembled already that is a big help; I didn't do that and had a few issues but got it all worked out. I didn't do the IMS, just the regular twin tubes though. I suppose they can assemble them in such a way that you won't need a shim which is nice.

I used the new bushings supplied from Dobinsons, but added new lift shackles from Boss-offroad that added another 1" lift. If you don't want any additional lift, but want a better shackle and greaseable pins, this may work for you https://ironman4x4america.com/toyota-tundra-2007-rear-greasable-shackle/ It is very inexpensive, and should work for you. I would certainly test fit some things before the day you actually install just to make sure it all works together. I did have to slightly grind down two Dobinsons bushing pins to fit in the new shackle. It was very minor, but worth noting. When you get parts from different manufacturers they don't always play well together.

I would also recommend Lucas Red N Tacky grease for install. It is high quality stuff and don't be afraid to be generous with it. I did not do greaseable pins but have had absolutely no issues.

I did do a diff drop kit as well. This wasn't too bad, but some extra hands helped, and the lift was probably most helpful for this since I was able to completely stand under the truck and do twist my hands into the tight spaces to get it all lined up.

I did SPC adjustable control arms (well, the cheaper RockAuto ones that don't seem to be available now), but I would recommend something if you have the budget for it. They aren't too bad to do, and it's kind of one of those....well I'm already in here, so might as well just whole ass this thing!

Look up the Ironman 4x4 Tundra install video on Youtube, it is actually very, very helpful in regards to tips on parts install, especially the strut install. I used their ratchet strap method and it worked perfectly for me.

I think it took us about 6-7 hours total, with lunch and a dinner break, and a beer or two. There were plenty of times, that even though there were 3 of us, it just was a one person job at times, so the other guys were just standing around like a turnpike road crew and watching lol. Just make sure everything is torqued down well, and triple check everything before you mount the wheels back up. It's pretty easy, especially if you have a multiple people helping, to easily overlook fully tightening down something.

And the biggest tip of all, do the final torquing for any bolt that touches a bushing once the truck is back on the ground. So all the leaf spring and shackle bolts, lower strut bolt, the UCA bolt, and also the U-bolts as well. Side note, the plate the the U-bolts go though and and hold them to the axle are angled, so when you remove them mark their orientation and don't mix them up.

Sorry this was a lot, but I hope it helps!

 

If you’re doing the ims and not the twin tube I’d put the springs on the lowest perch setting. The second one is a half inch of extra lift.

 

Or if you don't want to deal with adding a shim on the drivers side then set the drivers side on the 2nd clip and passenger on the 1st. I did this and it leveled out nicely. Yes you will also get about 3" of lift unless you have a heavy aftermarket bumper and winch up front.

 

This is a great install video and I feel the easiest way to install the front shocks unless you are doing UCAs at the same time.

 

Very useful info! Much appreciated!!
Forgot to mention I’ll be putting in Firestone airbags and daystar cradles as well as i tow a rather large TT (6-7k lbs) so looking to enhance towing capacity as well- I am assuming that these will fit with the new leafs and AAL with necessary clearance …??
Good point to change control arms while I’m in there….so, if im also replacing the ubolts and plates, aim to place them in exact location of older ones?
Thanks again - I’m pretty stoked!

 

You reuse the plates, so just makes sure they are aligned correctly as they help enter the axle. But yes you'll have new u-bolts which will be a bit longer to accommodate the new leaf pack.

Are you getting the new pack, and an additional AAL? I would think the regular load leaf pack would suffice. It handles a lot more weight than the stock pack, and provides around 2" of lift.

I do not have much familiarity with airbags, but you may need a spacer of some sort since I think Firestone airbags have a bracket that pushes down on the top of the axle tube. With the thicker leaf pack that might not work as intended. You may need to do some more homework on that. You could look into Sumo springs or Timbrens. I have the Timbrens but still need to add a spacer or two since my lift. They obviously don't have the adjustability of airbags, but I chose them because they are maintenance free so I never have to worry about a failure while I'm towing or have a load. I live in Pennsylvania, so we get plenty of crappy salt on the roads here. Airbags and a compressor where just one more thing to fail that I didn't want.

 

Not sure if there's a reason or not, but your RSB is installed incorrectly.

Bushings should be under the axle not aft of the axle.

 

I'm well aware of that, it was done on purpose when I did the lift. It moves the sway bar up and brings the end links closer to the desired 90° angle so it maintains as close to the same effectiveness as intended.

The attachment to the axle doesn't make a difference really, and it works just the same. It's a economy way of doing it instead of getting longer end links lol

 

If you haven't bought the cradles you can have an unused pair for shipping if you want. I got them & never used them, just sitting around.

 

Ive had the return stickers sitting on the cradles all week- cutting it close to having to put them in the mail for Amazon to refund me- I’m not convinced that they are a priority for my set up - I just ordered from dobinson direct yesterday -they say approx 3 weeks til they can get my kit to Canada; however, for some reason, I changed my mind about the extra HD add a leaf last minute and didn’t order it…now I’m regretting it and maybe I’d rather the AAL then the cradles - I have no clue if everything will fit, especially if I change up the shackles too; I just need to start taking pieces apart so I can get a better idea of how things are going to align…anyways, haha, I’m going to send them back and start poking around under the truck this weekend, so if you still got them when I make my mind up - perfect! Thanks man!

 

I think you might be just fine with the regular load springs and your trailer. So long as you use a good weight distribution hitch it should do very well. Tons of guys tow what you do, or more, with the crappy OEM springs. The regular load springs are firmer, but don't sag like my stock springs did with a few hundred pounds. It won't be hard to add bags, or Timbrens/Sumo springs down the line if you feel like you need them.

 

I did mine by myself. Plan on all day.

 

OP here checking in for the first time since my original post (obviously I'm not an active forum member, and wow did this thread grow!). My Land Cruiser owner friend was the one who originally told me to check out Dobinsons as there were many fans on the LC forums. At the time there was nothing on this forum about them. Glad to see that is no longer the case.

Happy to report that I am still pleased with my setup 50k miles later (250k total on the rig).

 

what kit did you go with? what is the lift hieght? I like the overall height of your truck

 

Has anyone with the leaf springs had any issues with squeaking?? Mine were silent at first but now after some dusty roads and mud have developed quite the squeak. My only other slight complaint with 778 front springs is that they don’t offer a ton of down travel and have gotten a few good top outs when a wheel drops into a big hole at speed. Wondering if a UCA could help this problem, but from what I understand the struts are stock length and wouldn’t gain much from this.

 

Dobinsons struts are longer than stock. They're as long as they can go before the CVs will bind. UCA's would help with articulation and ride quality.

Might just have junk built up in the springs, or a rock or small rocks. They aren't known to squeak. I'd hang the tires in the air and clean then out really well.

 

Does this apply to the twin tubes and the mono tubes?

 

Yes, both

 

@crikeymike or anyone that can answer any of my questions-
In short, I am installing myself (zero experience, other than getting airbags in and spending endless hours on this site researching...) - looking for any info before I start -

For the IMS kit, I ordered and received:

front springs C59-778 (2.5") - ordered teal, but arrived in black - no biggie, anyone know if I can I paint them without cracking when compressed; powder coat, I'd assume??

120R rear leafs (4+2) = 2" rear lift

59-60710 & 59-60711 front and rear shocks

Also got the dobinson U-bolts, bushings and pins, and strut top plate - 59-006 plate label says for land cruiser?, hope those fit as they didn't arrive assembled, as requested) - also didn't receive any instructions. IS it recommended to get them compressed at local shop over buying tool?
What perch is best, given the following, and incorporating large towing capacity:

FYI: I will be removing flattened stock leafs and bilstein 5100 shocks (current set at mid perch for front) -

Hand on hand:
firestone air bags (2445) and daystar cradles (they will fit?)

Just ordered today from Coachbuilder: (everything from US to Canada):
CB +2 shackles (1.25" lift) with bushings
CB 0.5" strut/ coilover shim x1 for driver side
CB front diff drop kit (as dobinson was sold out at the time of ordering the kit - no idea if compatible)

I havent ordered UCAs - pretty much broke AF at this point, hence doing the labor myself - but considering JBA over SPC, but also dont mind changing out ball joint if indecisive re: adjustable vs. uniball - opinions?

I am considering 35x12.5x20 Coopers as they are 25% off right now - anyone used the CB front bumper skim kits?

Overall - I am wondering this these parts are compatible - and what the end lift might be? And, how to get best clearance for wheels without CMC -

Thanks - I know its a ton of questions, so really, just anything could help, lol
Cheers

 

Damn, who’d you order from? Sounds like they royally fucked up the order.

 

I have gotten a few really, really mild squeaks from the leaf springs, but only when I had a big load of stuff in the bed. I was generous with the Lucan Red N' Tacky on all bushings when I did the install, so I may just go around with some spray grease and hit any contact spots.

 

Have you tried greasing them?