Do you think Toyota will take responsibility for the 2nd gen bed rust?

I think top and bottom is the way to go.

I would be cautious with the POR 15 though. I have seen some guys be careful about the prep and application and still have it fail and pull off in sheets.
It’s very popular for use on old VW restorations because it CAN be bulletproof, and it nearly matches the corrosion resistant black finish that was on floor pans and chassis parts right out of the factory.

If you have spare time and want to kill a few longnecks, here is an interesting read:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=131753

 

The sad fact is that if you buy used then you best do a carfax to see where the truck spent it's life. Thinking that "I live in Georgia or California so rust isn't an issue" is a mistake if the truck came from any of the rust belt states. I can remember a coworker being p^ssed because Toyota was replacing the frame on my 2000 Tundra while his 99 GMC just failed inspection because of frame rot. GM did nothing for him. I can't tell you how many trucks I found down south that came from up here when I was looking for a used Tundra. The same was true of every brand and all of them were rusted like crazy. If I had to guess the big 3 trucks seam to last a few years longer because the steel is thicker but they have so many other problems that I would never own one with 200k miles.

The only way to properly fix that bed is to cut off all of those cross supports and replace them. There's rust between those rails and the bed that'll just continue to rust away. Once removed just grinding isn't enough. Sand blast the steel to remove any black spots (black rust). Since you've invested this much time do it right or you are not going to be happy in a couple years.

 

All vehicles will have rust issues if exposed to the correct environment and not cleaned or treated. I started fluid filming my vehicles after I lost a Chevy Avalanche to the rust, I was keeping it alive mechanically but didn't think about rust proofing until it was too late. The Tundras will last a long time mechanically and obviously a hard to clean spot and/or area that holds salt moisture is present at these bed rail locations. I fluid filmed a buddies truck because he was having issues in these locations with no bed liner in in his Tundra. In high wash areas you will lose some fluid film but in areas tucked up under the bed like that it will stay and creep. There are better products if you are doing a frame off and have time and room to prep and apply but for hitting problem areas the FF is hard to beat.

 

The other day I drilled a drain hole up by the cab in the corner where the rain will fill up to 6" deep, so I figured better with small hole now then huge rust spot later.

 

I went to the shop this morning, the owner does not want to cut off the cross frames. He is going to weld plates over the cross frames. We are going to paint everything with POR-15. then we are going to paint both sides of bed and cross frames with Rhino Shield. He feels that will be good for many years. The two middle cross members do not have much rust at all. Just the two larger ones that the bolts go through. I will post more pictures to show the repairs.

 

Previous two owners were local (Portland, OR area). Who knows maybe the 1st owner spent a lot of time at the coast or drove to a rust belt area during the winter but that would reflect in the mileage. PO had it for over 5 years and definitely didn't spend time at the coast.
My 94 F150 has 220K miles and still runs and drives good. If it was a Supercab I would not have looked for a Tundra yet.

 

More progress photos from body shop.

 

More patches welded and seam sealed on bed.

 

Here is the quality of the Toyota frame rust through recall. Frame was not preforated so they sent the truck to a different local body shop (not my shop doing all these rust repairs) for a half ass undercoating. I am DA'ing the entire frame and cross members so I can paint everything with the POR-15.

 

I am removing all the loose surface rust and scuffing up the black undercounting to give the POR-15 a good surface to bond to. The key is to leave the hard rust on the metal since POR-15 reacts to the hard rust and forms the new surface.

 

Day 4 of fixing the rot and sanding the frame of the truck

 

Here is some progress pics. Underside of bed was painted with POR-15. Then the underside was sprayed with Raptor Liner. The entire truck frame was painted with 2 coats of POR-15 and then covered with Raptor Liner. Bed put back on truck and sprayed with Raptor. Spare tire steel wheel descaled and painted with POR-15.

 

Looks about like my new to me 2010. So frustrating. Wish I would have pulled the bedlinner off at the dealership.

 

Maybe you can go back to the dealer and get them to take responsibility if it wasn't too long ago?

 

I spoke to the Service Manager at the Toyota dealer where I bought the truck used. He said that there was a Service Bulletin released about this problem but my truck being a 2008 was out of any factory warranty. He said there was nothing Toyota would do

Buyer beware!!

 

This just reminds of a slogan Toyota once used, "Oh what a feeling!"
Yeah, pull down your pants and get some Vaseline!

 

If rust holes in the bed on a 10+ year old used truck is all you have to complain about I'd say you are doing pretty good.

At least the fenders dont rot out in 5 years and look like ass.

 

There's no excuse for a Toyota to rust like it does especialy here in the PNW. I keep hearing Toyota quality this and Toyota quality this. I hold Toyota to higher standard because of this and so called better resale quality.
Toyota quality is way overrated.

 

Sell it and buy a new GM then. The high resale value should help you.

You bought it used, you have no idea where that truck has been in it's previous ownership or what it was used for. It doesn't take that much exposure to road salt to get rust like that.

Bed rust is not a safety issue, so every manufacturer is going to tell you to pound sand.

 

Wow has that truck been flooded in salt water?? I have never seen a Toyota truck with that much rust on it.

 

Seriously???? No sympathy here. I hold self responsibility at a high standard. I lived in Orygun, (not Argon or Ora-gone, although I do like Ore-Ida spuds) for 13 years. Unless something has drastically changed that's still the PNW. I lived about 50 miles east of Reedsport. I spent a lot of time all over the coast in Winchester Bay and north and south too up the WA coast and down all the way down the CA coast on the 101 to San Diego. I saw salt rust bucket trucks all over. Sea spray salt works slower than road salt but with same results. My previous 12 year old Tundra at the time of trade in 07 Tundra spent the whole 12 years in Colorado. 7 of those years with a plastic factory drop in liner. NO RUST! Ziltch. My now 6 year old 14 spent the previous 5 years prior to me owning it in North Dakota. NO RUST just an annoying thin film of red dirt road silt which has been a pain in the ass actually. Thin Filmed the whole undercarriage. Twice. Bubbled up most of that red silt away. Buyer beware when buying a used Tundra or any truck. For crying out loud look it over damn good. Check it's history. If you live in the rust belt or near any ocean and have a new Tunny>>>>prep it to prevent rust issues. My 3 cents...I like beer, hate whine....
GO DUCKS!!!
U of W Huskies suck...heh....heh

 

^^^^this^^^^

 

The 1st two owners were from the Portland area. True, who knows where the 1st owner spent most of his time with the truck. I checked everything I knew I could about this truck. I wasn't aware of the bed rust. It was an expensive lesson. Yes I'd like to get rid of it but who would want it with the rust it has?
I already have another truck, an '02 Excursion I inherited last year. I was going to sell it to offset the cost of the Tundra. I'm going to keep it instead.

 

i like the fiberglass idea, how is it holding up?
Any details on how you did this? Did you cut out the rot area first?
Thanks for any info.

 

It's the ChrisFix method of fixing rust. He has a video up on it. Definitely clean up as much as you can top side and bottom side. Cut and wire wheel. Go ham with rust converter everywhere you can't cut. It's holding up ok. A few spots are still bubbling up even thru the herculiner. I would advise taking the bed off completely if you want the best working conditions and best results. You can only do so much with the bed still attached.

 

While I agree with self-responsibility, Toyota has admitted that the reason these beds are rusting near the frame mounts is due to a defect in manufacturing. No matter where you live, if it rains and you drive in it your likely to get moisture in these areas and thus rust has a chance to form. Many other members have had LineX since day one, myself included, and the bed has rusted. I have no rust anywhere else on my truck. As a responsible owner how do I prevent rust from forming where I didn't even know there was an issue until it was too late? Even when looking over these trucks before buying them, unless you knew where to look, you probably would never see the issue from underneath.