Do I REALLY want 37's?

I hear +25 is the sweet spot for tire offset. Also Wilco has the hitchgate switch high clearance swingout that will work with 37s on our tundras

 

+25 is a good starting point, but other variables like tire width and the aforementioned static and dynamic alignment specs can quickly erode any gains...this is an exercise of "Tolerance stacking"

 

Agreed, I have my spare mounted in the bed (35" at the moment) and chopped the rear off for high clearance as well as a "prerunner" type front bumper. If I had the stock front and rear bumpers I may have ended up having my air bags deploy. Was out driving for hours and came to a wash that was very short across but very deep on both sides. Made it but squeaked by. If I had my spare under the truck like I used to carry it I would have been dragging the spare if not ripping it off. Not a fan of it hanging off the back either...

 

The was one for sale on Exped Portal in SoCal yesterday for cheap. Sold in an hour lol.

if you’re looking for one I’ll keep an eye out as I’m always looking for stuff

 

I have a first gen and have never put more than 33's on anything so feel free to ignore all of this

With as tight as the trails are in CO I wonder if the Tundra is the right platform to begin with. Do you have the option of putting the money you'd spend on upgrading the Tundra and putting it into an older 4runner or Jeep?

Or buy one of these

 

Don't do it! Mine is only on 34" and if I see you rolling around with 37" here locally (80021) then I won't enjoy mine as much.

Joking aside, good luck with your decision, thank you for your service, and post pics when done!

 

A valid question. While the Tundra isnt THE most ideal trail truck, it's MY ideal trail truck. I like to have the ability to hit trails in a capable truck as well as use it for my daily. I don't have room or budget for multiple vehicles, plus I tow a travel trailer and have 4 kids (5th on the way!) so I need that room in the cab. I've never been thwarted by a trail in CO (or anywhere) due to the size of the truck. If it gets that tight or technical, I'm in the wrong place with my daily driver. It's got it's share of pin stripes, too

 

Ha! Peer pressure is a hell of a drug.... I'll keep an eye out for you! I live in 80020 but my office is up by the airport in 80021. There's also a really nice white 2.5 gen DC that's usually up here by the airport. He's got Deaver/Elka suspension, C4 armor, bunch of other goodie's Im sure, AND he's running 37's. I should put a note on his windshield and see if he'd chat with me but I feel like that would be kind of creepy for him..

 

I answered this in the 37s post here, but looks like they're covered now.

 

haha! Stupid question, I know.

 

These are good questions.

I live in Broomfield so I hit the trails around the front range when I can (Switzerland trail, Kingston peak, Nederland and Rollinsville area, etc..). I also hit just about any trail or forest road system I can when camping. Buena Vista/Salida area in four mile rec area, Eagle/Vail area, Silverton and Telluride, passes all over the place...I'm not trying to be a rock crawler.

I'm not really trying to gain access to trails I don't already have. I want 37's so I can have a more comfortable experience on the type of terrain I already run. My thought is bigger tires and more sidewall is going to make for smoother/easier rolling, especially on the little choppy stuff.

 

I was on 37’s for many years then I bought the Tundra. Time is getting closer to making it happen

 

I don't recall anyone running 37s and later saying "that sucked, I'm going back to smaller tires."

 

Lol truth

 

I don’t really have anything constructive to add that hasn’t already been covered, other than to say I’m stoked to see so many people wanting actual full articulation performance from their 37s. I think I’ve wheeled with almost everyone in this thread who has offered real world advice, except for @reywcms and he’s on my short list to go for a run with.

Do it.

 

37s are really nice, want 39s now lol. Lots of time spent on it, but I run 37s without touching the pinch weld, did do a bmc, clears full range of travel. Ran 35s MT without the bmc, no rubbing. It’s all in wheel choice, and alignment. Position of the tire/wheel in the wheel well is more important than maxing out caster, but would be difficult to get an alignment while cycling for clearance same time.

 

Oh shit you just reminded me…

@Marvthehamster i don’t think your MCM uppers are adjustable are they? You’ll need to stay in the +25 offset range (plus or minus a little), which I think you said you already plan to do.

When we converted to beadlocks we ended up with an effective -5 offset and had to go adjustable uppers and glass fenders.

 

You can also spacer the bump stops accordingly

 

The MCM UCA’s are not adjustable. I’m looking at 17” wheels in either +25 or +35 offset, haven’t made a purchase yet.

 

Yeah you’ll be good with that offset.

 

17 x 8.5 +25 is the sweet spot. Old video, but it shows the clearance with that size wheel.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fK2y9NcqpYg&t=21s

 

Good input. @Vizsla says +25 offset is the sweet spot

@KevinK says +25 or +35 will work.

Do I smell a death match of opinion?

Seriously though, my thought was +35 offset would create less of an arc through metal and plastic in terms of steering radius. This just generally seems to be more true with more positive offset. Does a 35mm offset create other issues in terms of clearance once we start moving that wheel up and down and putting it in full lock positions at either full stuff or full droop? I know either will probably work, but is there a slight advantage to the 35mm offset or am I thinking of this incorrectly?

I also like the fact that 35mm offset keeps tires tucked a little farther into the fender wells and doesn't sling as much mud and rock onto my cherry paint job

 

Vizsla, you are running LT correct? Does that have a lot of bearing in this equation or are the hurdles the same for MT and LT when it comes to clearing 37's?

You said you are able to clear 37's with a BMC, no pinch weld mod but "lots of time spent on it" Could you expand on that a bit more? Are you running fiberglass fenders?

Also, are you saying that with 37's it's more of a binary option when it comes to alignment and clearance?

Like pick one:
A) good alignment or
B) good clearance

Thanks for your input!

 

Kevin, thank you for your input.

Could you refresh me quickly on the mods you performed to get your clearance? I'm pretty sure you did an aggressive BMC, a pinch weld mod (smash..), and are now running fiberglass fenders.

I'd really like to avoid the fiberglass if I could...

 

I want to pull the trigger on 37's pretty bad, I just don't want to get in over my head with modifications to make them function properly. I have the capability to do all the stuff you guys have been mentioning, I'm just not sure I have the time. Doing a BMC and trimming out the back of the front bumper is fine with me. I just don't really want to go further.

My fallback option here is another set of 35's.

Either way, I'm probably going to a 17 wheel with a 25 or 35 offset.

Ugh, should I just do it and worry about potential consequences later? It's one of these things that you just don't know everything about until you do it. Like somebody said above though, not many people regretting the choice to go 37's once they do it.

 

Let’s not forget pinch weld modification

Gears and lockers (add air supply if air lockers)…cause if you’re in there, just get it done…tune etc = gets spendy

37s are not without their drawbacks.

 

I keep forgetting to include my plans for a re gear in my posts. I do plan to re gear, even if I stay with 35's.

Tune is another one that I have forgotten about....