DIY: Radium Oil Catch Cans

Are you adding a picture to show us?

 

Ok. Now we need a month long test. See how much is in there after a month of driving.

 

I'll be checking monthly anyway.

 

Yeah, a few drops I saw were black like that. It looked disgusting. I was making a video to show everyone and then I found out I was talking to myself the whole time. The freakin camera said SD Card error and I didnt notice it until I was done. Too late for take 2 because I've already clean the freakin can. Disappointing.

 

It definitely works and sexy as hell. Lol

 

Very nice! But I'm drooling over the SC.

 

Here is the result after 300 miles. I think this is the last update, dont want to
https://youtu.be/p3wCBPAWOpc

 

Thanks for the update. I'd be curious to see after a full oil change cycle (around 5K - 7K).

On another note, are those the DEI wraps on your tubes?bhow you like them?!

 

I can do another update at 5K.

Yes, those are DEI fire sleeves. They are well made but I don't like the way they look. I bought a 5/8" for the smaller 1/2" hose but I couldn't put it on, too tight. The one you see here are 1" on the 5/8" hoses. Maybe they are too big but I think a 3/4" would probably be too small. I think the sleeves should be a bit stretchable for ease of installation. If you know of any good technique let me know. I made a video on that but as I was editing it I felt bored so I gave up on it. LOL

 

I'm not sure on all the sizes they make. I've used them in the past for the spark plug wires, which were smaller. I also know them for thei header wrap. I'm sure they make basic sizes to fit multiple hose types.
Did you check their website?

 

No experience with those sleeves but you need to measure the outside diameter (OD)
of your hoses before buying the wrap/sleeves.
Most likely for the half-inch you need 3/4 and for the 5/8 you needed 7/8-1”.

 

Yes I did check their website. I measured the outside diameter of the hoses and they are slightly bigger than 3/4" so I went with 1". I will look for different type. Perhaps the one with velcro would work better, just wrap them.

 

@LEKS, did you any issues with getting the PCV hose onto the intake manifold barb on your supercharger? I noticed during my install that the hose ID is slightly larger than the barb OD resulting in the hose sliding on/off the barb without friction. For now, I have 3 zip ties holding the hose onto the barb (ie. the stock hose clamp doesn't fit over the new hose). I may try and put a worm-drive hose clamp on instead of the zip ties but I still feel like having a smaller ID hose is the right solution. Below are photos of my install..

 

No issues with mine. It was just as snug as the factory hose.

 

Damn, they must've changed something for the '14 kit then.

 

Bumping this to see if the dual set up is necessary. I want to order a can this week for my sc truck. I think either moroso or radium!

 

@nk1794 Do you have any updates on your catch can? Is it worth installing?

 

It's been about 3400 miles since the last time I checked. I'll check again and let you know in a couple of days. I think it's worth the install.

 

Sorry for the delay. At around 3600 miles. It collected about 70ml from the PCV can. The crankcase can was empty.

 

Thanks for the update and advising that the crankcase can didn’t catch anything.

 

Just bought one...PCV only tho...

 

In my experience Climate/seasons plays a huge factor in volume collected by catch can.
Summer time, i noticed the collected fluid was black oil colored and uniform, no separation. ( dry season)
Winter season doubled the volume, latte colored heavy stratification of fluid significant amount of water. (wet season)
As a cold engine warms up with the Air injection system, the heat builds up from cylinder walls and spreads outward. The catch can is at ambient meaning it is colder than the air inside the block.
Condensation occurs in the catch can and collects before being dumped back into the engine.

 

I had the Radiums on a turbocharged car, and would recommend them for a forced injection car. The biggest reason for these is primarily to limit fouling of the back of the intake valves on gasoline direct injection engines, although with the add-on effect of improving emissions and a minuscule amount of power due to better combustion within the cylinder. As the stock Tundra is naturally aspirated and port injected, this isn't really an issue. Those cans are great but expensive, I wouldn't do this myself.

 

Did you end up replacing the hose or just stick with the zip ties or clamp? My Magnuson is going on this month and I have the radium dual catch can kit going on at the same time. Just wondering if I will run into this also.

 

What’s the difference with two vs one catch can. I’m thinking about buying one of these. Your input would help me. Thanks

 

One can is for the PCV the other can is for the crankcase. They are closed loop systems meaning they don’t vent. It will throw a CEL if vented. systems are separated so they don’t interfere with each other. IMO the PCV is really the main line to catch. The supercharged guys seem to indicate the crankcase vent can doesn’t collect much. I have actually been considering a vibrant catch can since it is large volume and priced fairly.

 

Thank you. I’ll probably just get the PCV can. Save some money.

 

That's correct from what I've seen so far. I installed both pvc and crankcase at the same time as the supercharger. I've only put on about 3k miles since then so not much time to accumulate anything. I checked the cans a couple times just to see what's in there and the crankcase side doesn't appear to get much of anything.

 

From what I read. The 5.7 liter engine is a direct injection engine. Others say their not. If it is direct inject. We would definitely need this catch can, but if it’s not catch can isn’t necessary.