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DIY front differential and transfer case fluid change.

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by kenomouth64, Feb 17, 2017.

  1. Feb 17, 2017 at 9:47 PM
    #1
    kenomouth64

    kenomouth64 [OP] New Member

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    Hold the Line! If you are not holding the line, abandon your ship. Destruction is inevitable without more to hold the line!
    DIY for Front differential and Transfer case Fluid Change.

    This should work on any 4x4 Toyota Tundra between years 2007 to 2013(May work on 2014+ as well, not sure)

    You will need:
    Your favorite 75w-90 Gear oil(4 QTS, I used Mobile1 LS Synthetic 75w-90 from Autozone).
    New Washers; Link for them on Amazon is here:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017V4BAXI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    12mm socket(To remove the transfer case skid plate)
    24mm socket(To remove the Transfer case bolts)
    10mm Hex bit(To remove front differential bolts)
    Torque wrench
    Drain Pan
    Plenty of Shop towels/Rags(This is a messy job due to poor access)
    Some sort of pump device with a short hose(small hand pump, turkey baster, etc)
    I recommend the following because the turkey baster methods takes way too long:
    http://www.harborfreight.com/fluid-siphon-pump-93290.html

    The exact fluid capacities for the Differential and Transfer case are listed below:
    Front Differential: 2.3 QT
    Transfer Case: 1.2 QT

    The exact Torque for the Differential and Transfer case bolts are listed below:
    Front differential: 29 ft/lb
    Transfer Case: 27 ft/lb

    Front Differential Instructions:

    Step 1: Take the truck on a short drive in 4x4 to warm the fluid (2-3 Miles)
    Step 2: Locate the front differential bolts
    A:They are on the driver side of the front differential
    Step 3: Using the 10mm Hex bit remove the Filler plug(top plug first)
    Step 4: Station the drain pan under the drain plug and remove the drain plug using the 10mm Hex bit
    Step 5: Let the fluid drain for 10+ minutes(one may want to prop up the passenger side of truck to assist in draining)
    Step 6: Clean off any metal fragments from the magnet on the drain plug
    Step 7 Re-insert the drain plug at a torque of 29 ft/lbs(with new washer, and ensure the bolts threads are lubricated)
    Step 8: Pump 2.3 Qts in to the filler hole(using your preferred method)(or Until you cannot pump any more fluid without it seeping from the hole)
    Step 9: Torque filler plug to 29 ft/lb(with new washer, ensure the bolt threads are lubricated)
    Step 10: Drive truck around in 4x4 for a few miles(to get fluid moved around in the differential)
    Step 11: Remove the the filler plug again and see if you can add any more fluid, if you can add it until it is seeping out.
    Step 12: Re-insert the filler plug at a torque of 29 ft/lb
    Step 13: You are now done with the front differential

    Transfer Case Instructions:

    Step 1: Take the truck on a short drive in 4x4 to warm the fluid (2-3 Miles)
    Step 2: Locate the transfer case
    A:Should be the unit connected to the side of the transmission with the front driveshaft coming out of it
    Step 3: Using the 12mm socket remove the 4 skid plate bolts, thus removing the bottom skid plate.
    A. One might also consider removing the top passenger skid plate(using 12mm socket) on the transfer case for easier access to the filler plug
    Step 4: Remove the filler plug (first) using the 24 mm socket
    A: Remove the Drain plug using the 24 mm socket(have the Drain pan stationed under the drain plug)
    Step 5: Let the fluid drain for 10+ minutes
    Step 6 Re-insert the drain plug at a torque of 27 ft/lbs(with new washer, and ensure the bolts threads are lubricated)
    Step 7: Pour or pump 1.2 Qts into the filler hole(using your preferred method)(or until you cannot pump any more fluid without it seeping from the filler hole)
    Step 8: Torque filler plug to 27 ft/lb(with new washer, ensure the bolt threads are lubricated)
    Step 9: Drive truck around in 4x4 for a few miles(to get fluid moved around in the transfer case)
    Step 10: Remove the the filler plug again and see if you can add any more fluid, if you can add fluid until it is seeping from the filler hole.
    Step 11: Torque the filler plug to 27 ft/lb
    Step 12: You are now done with the transfer case
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2017
    rothmigo, 602runner, Pudge and 10 others like this.
  2. Feb 17, 2017 at 11:33 PM
    #2
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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    Some Mods :) See build thread for details
    Good work. Yea pictures or video are always helpful
     
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  3. Feb 18, 2017 at 1:09 PM
    #3
    Patriot

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    Nice instructions! What does a dealer usually charge for this service?
     
  4. Feb 20, 2017 at 9:30 PM
    #4
    kenomouth64

    kenomouth64 [OP] New Member

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    Hold the Line! If you are not holding the line, abandon your ship. Destruction is inevitable without more to hold the line!
    I am in Oklahoma City and the local Dealerships referred to doing this as a "4x4 Service". They were charging around $550 for the service.
    To be fair the service included:
    Front Driveshaft Lubrication and tightening(greasing up the grease zerk)
    Rear Driveshaft Lubrication and tightening(greasing up the grease zerks)
    Front Differential Fluid change
    Rear Differential fluid change
    Transfer case fluid change
    4x4 systems functionality inspection

    Still seemed to be too high of a cost. Being as a I could buy the differential fluid and crush washers for $100, the "stealership" did not seem to be the most cost-effective option.
     
    GNTundra likes this.
  5. Mar 6, 2017 at 12:47 PM
    #5
    Tony31

    Tony31 New Member

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    I just paid $232 for front/rear diff and trans case fluid changes. That's all I asked for so I assume that's all they did.
    I do have a question that I've been unable to find in other threads. I want to grease the propeller/drive shaft but I'm not sure what grease to use. Does anyone know? I suppose I could just call the dealer but I like the tips/tricks that you all provide for questions such as this. Thanks for your help
     
  6. Mar 6, 2017 at 9:37 PM
    #6
    kenomouth64

    kenomouth64 [OP] New Member

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    Hold the Line! If you are not holding the line, abandon your ship. Destruction is inevitable without more to hold the line!
    From the manual it says:

    CHASSIS LUBRICATION

    Front drive shaft thrust bushings: Synthetic oil and lithium soap base chassis grease, NLGI No.1

    Propeller shafts: Spiders Lithium base chassis grease, NLGI No.2

    Slide yokes: Lithium base chassis grease, NLGI No.2 or Molybdenum−disulfide lithium
    ================================================

    I used Valvoline NLGI 2 High Temp Lithium Synthetic grease on all of the grease zerks. I know many guys are really happy with various marine-grade greases. Really you cannot go wrong with grease as long as it is NLGI 2 rated and Synthetic.
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2017
    15whtrd, GNTundra and Tony31 like this.
  7. Mar 16, 2017 at 3:32 PM
    #7
    TundraJunkie

    TundraJunkie New Member

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    I was just quoted right at $400 from the dealership
     
  8. Mar 22, 2017 at 8:32 PM
    #8
    duece292

    duece292 Appalachian American

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    Excellent write up OP. I have a question for you...I'm getting ready to do this myself and used your Amazon link to order the washers. Do they fit both diffs and the transfer case?
     
  9. Mar 22, 2017 at 9:08 PM
    #9
    kenomouth64

    kenomouth64 [OP] New Member

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    Hold the Line! If you are not holding the line, abandon your ship. Destruction is inevitable without more to hold the line!
    The set comes with all 3. I believe that it includes 5-6 different washers.
    When you are done let me know how accurate my directions were and how they could be improved!
     
  10. Mar 31, 2017 at 6:22 PM
    #10
    ibupnorth

    ibupnorth New Member

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  11. Mar 31, 2017 at 7:32 PM
    #11
    Spolar

    Spolar Going broke

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    I know it's listed in the paperwork somewhere or I could call the dealer... but is this covered under warranty?
     
  12. Apr 19, 2017 at 6:41 PM
    #12
    duece292

    duece292 Appalachian American

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    Finally had time to get my diffs and transfer case done. OP, your directions were spot on! Doing one at a time, both diffs and Trans case took about an hour and a half letting each drain for 15+ minutes. The only thing I found to be different was the washer part number. The number I ordered was 90430-1001X3. I used Valvoline Synpower 75w-90. I also found that the front diff took about 2.6 quarts before it started to weep out of the fill hole. Thanks again for the excellent write up!
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 28, 2018
    kenomouth64 [OP] likes this.
  13. May 17, 2017 at 3:50 PM
    #13
    14burrito

    14burrito IG @14burrito

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    @ADSracingshocks - F 3 point ohh / R 2.5 - w/clickers @camburgracing - uniball UCA @rigidindustries - 40" amber/white split, Dually XL, D2 @coopertires - 35/12.5/17 STT MAXX @bayareametalfab - low pro bed rack @toyotausa - 17" rock warrior @sdhqoffroad - rock sliders, a-pillar @hondogarage / @apple / @gaiagps / @dualgps- navigation @wheelersoffroadinc - superbumps
    Just some info for those 2014+ 4x4 people looking for a fluid for their Transfer Case... Toyota PN 08885-81080

    You will soon find the T-case gear oil is NOT cheap and probably why the service for all 3 runs over $250 from the sounds of it.
     
  14. May 17, 2017 at 7:29 PM
    #14
    Les7311

    Les7311 Look up, what do you see

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    On my DIY list.

    What's the change intervals?
     
  15. May 17, 2017 at 8:47 PM
    #15
    n2deep

    n2deep Pavement Princess

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    $550 is worth it if your front diff is torqued well over 200ftlbs With the limited space I can not get my front diff drain bolt off - thanks Toyota.
     
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  16. May 17, 2017 at 9:04 PM
    #16
    Spolar

    Spolar Going broke

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    Why would your front diff be torqued over 200ftlbs?
     
  17. May 17, 2017 at 9:29 PM
    #17
    14burrito

    14burrito IG @14burrito

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    30k

    FWIW, called my usual guy at the dealership. Got quoted 200 front, rear and tcase
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2017
    Les7311 and kenomouth64 [OP] like this.
  18. May 17, 2017 at 10:12 PM
    #18
    n2deep

    n2deep Pavement Princess

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    Not sure what it really is torqued to - but it is so tight I can't get it to budge.
     
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  19. May 17, 2017 at 10:19 PM
    #19
    Spolar

    Spolar Going broke

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    Gotcha... didn't sense the sarcasm but prolly should have with that number
     
  20. May 17, 2017 at 10:38 PM
    #20
    Joeshaker

    Joeshaker New Member

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    If it's the same as the 1st gen, the fluid should be about 1/4 inch below the weep hole. Overfilling can cause the seals to fail. Make a little hook dipstick out of clothes hanger or something like that to know when it's full enough. I've been meaning to ask its the same on 2nd and 3rd gens to. Mine will be due soon, I don't want to make that mistake again.
     
  21. May 18, 2017 at 7:25 AM
    #21
    kenomouth64

    kenomouth64 [OP] New Member

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    Hold the Line! If you are not holding the line, abandon your ship. Destruction is inevitable without more to hold the line!
    The manual says every 30K miles.

    That is not a bad price! I did is myself for like $90, so just $110 extra to skip out on the hassle is not bad. However my dealer wanted an outrageous price...

    I am pretty sure that the procedure for the 2nd and 3rd generation Tundras is to fill to the top of the hole and let it weep. I can confirm, I just need to look for the TSB.
     
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  22. May 18, 2017 at 7:39 AM
    #22
    14burrito

    14burrito IG @14burrito

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    Especially since the 2014+ require Toyotas special 75w gear oil in the T-case...which runs $56/litre lol - that's $112 in T-case fluid alone...while you will have left over for the next service - still a pretty penny up front.

    Luckily in 07-13 you can use 75w-90 in all 3 components.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 28, 2018
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  23. May 24, 2017 at 1:21 PM
    #23
    badams1897

    badams1897 New Member

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    Someone should sticky this or add it to a DIY sticky post! Good stuff as I am at 50k miles and probably need to do it.
     
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  24. Jun 6, 2017 at 5:45 PM
    #24
    dano4003

    dano4003 New Member

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    nice write up... print this off and you shouldn't need anything else... very easy to follow
     
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  25. Jul 23, 2017 at 8:36 AM
    #25
    nuclearlemon

    nuclearlemon New Member

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    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 28, 2018
  26. Jul 23, 2017 at 5:13 PM
    #26
    duece292

    duece292 Appalachian American

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    If you're just doing the t-case the 90430-18008 will work, it's t-case only. If youre doing the diffs too then youll need the diff/t-case service kit. I don't recall the part number but it's in my last post above, otherwise if you put 90430-18008 into the Amazon search bar the service kit comes up first. 2 aluminum washers for t-case drain and fill, 1 copper washer for front diff drain and 3 zinc crush washers, 1 for front diff fill and 2 for rear diff drain and fill.
     
  27. Jul 23, 2017 at 5:21 PM
    #27
    nuclearlemon

    nuclearlemon New Member

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    ok so you are ordering the kit and the two tcase gaskets.

    i just ordered all the individual gaskets from mr t.
    these are the part numbers for my 2012 w/ 5.7

    90430-18008 t case drain/fill gaskets
    12157-10010 rear diff drain/fill gaskets
    90430-24003 front diff drain gasket
    12157-10010 front diff fill plug gasket
    90430-12031 engine oil pan drain gasket
    35178-30010 transmission drain plug gasket
     
  28. Aug 18, 2017 at 1:13 PM
    #28
    Les7311

    Les7311 Look up, what do you see

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    on my TTD list for this weekend......
     
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  29. Aug 18, 2017 at 5:42 PM
    #29
    Les7311

    Les7311 Look up, what do you see

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    What is oil capacity of the rear dif?
     
  30. Aug 18, 2017 at 5:56 PM
    #30
    kenomouth64

    kenomouth64 [OP] New Member

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    Hold the Line! If you are not holding the line, abandon your ship. Destruction is inevitable without more to hold the line!
    Here is the info from the manual. I used around 3.7 qts on my 4x4 Crewmax.

    TRANSFER CASE:
    Oil capacity, L (qt., Imp. qt.):
    1.12 (1.2, 1.0)
    Oil type:
    Gear Oil API GL−4 or GL−5
    Recommended oil viscosity:
    SAE 75W−90

    DIFFERENTIALS:
    Oil capacity, L (qt., Imp. qt.):

    Front differential
    (four−wheel drive models)
    2.10 (2.2, 1.8)

    Rear differential
    4.0 L V6 (1GR−FE) and 4.7 L V8
    (2UZ−FE) engine
    Regular cab models
    Standard bed 4.05 (4.3, 3.6)
    Long bed 4.60 (4.9, 4.0)
    Double cab and Crew Max models
    4.60 (4.9, 4.0)
    5.7 L V8 (3UR−FE) engine
    Regular cab models
    Standard bed 3.45 (3.6, 3.0)
    Long bed 3.60 (3.8, 3.2)
    Double cab models
    Standard bed 3.60 (3.8, 3.2)
    Long bed 3.75 (4.0, 3.3)
    Crew Max models
    Two−wheel drive model
    3.75 (4.0, 3.3)
    Four−wheel drive model
    3.60 (3.8, 3.2)
    Oil type and viscosity:
    Toyota Genuine Differential Gear Oil LT
    75W−85 GL−5 or equivalent
    “Genuine Differential Gear Oil” is
     
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