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DIY changing the oil and now i have a massive leak....???

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by oldschoolhdmike, Jun 4, 2016.

  1. Nov 7, 2019 at 12:18 PM
    #61
    Black4X2

    Black4X2 New Member

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    When I screw my cap on I do it very slowly to possibly keep the O ring from messing up some way or other. I always oil the O ring before I put it on too.
     
    deptrai likes this.
  2. Nov 14, 2019 at 8:27 PM
    #62
    tundraforme

    tundraforme New Member

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    I just put my valve in today - can't wait for the next oil change
     
  3. Nov 14, 2019 at 8:32 PM
    #63
    trinituner

    trinituner New Member

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    Glad you figured out what it was
     
  4. Sep 4, 2020 at 8:41 AM
    #64
    calisparky

    calisparky New Member

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    The best post about the exact same situation I have with my 2011 right now. The pouring of oil from the side of the housing, like you mentioned. "What in the hell did I do?" was my cursing moments and wrench throwing moments. The worst frustration I've experienced in quite some time.
    I certainly own a wrench or two. I even have them in both of my rolling tool boxes that take up the space on the wall as long as my crew cab truck. (Just saying I do know that "lefty is loosy and righty really is tighty" unless it's not.)
    The wife person here really loves her toy while I'm driving my Cummins around town and having her truck down for the past few days is creating an angry woman in this house and, for those of you with one of these things (Married) know that having one of these "unhappy" is not a pleasant day in paradise.
    Living around 45ish miles out of any nearby town with any auto parts a small town might actually have in stock is also a frustration with the whole "TRIAL AND ERROR" kind of situation with such a simple repair that you have informed me about the housing itself. I do believe Toyota could have probably come up with a smarter engineering idea than this piece of plastic that breaks when some kid does an oil change at one of those "quicky lube" places as mine was oh, a 'LITTLE' tighter than the 18 pds required by the manufacturer.
    Thanks again for the great info and the aluminum is going to be the replacement.
     
  5. Sep 4, 2020 at 10:43 AM
    #65
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    If you didn't read the entire thread, I'll say it again: "Don't forget to swap in the longer perforated tube from the plastic filter cap for the short tube in the aluminum filter cap." The aluminum filter cap is for another vehicle with a short filter, and the center perforated tube that comes in the aluminum filter cap is too short for the Tundra filter.
     
  6. Sep 5, 2020 at 12:15 PM
    #66
    TechWrench

    TechWrench New Member

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    Toyota Bedliner, Under Cover Bed cover, Oem back-up camera system.
    I used to own a BMW X5 with the in-line 6 engine. It has the oil filter on the side of the engine, and it is serviced from under the hood. It has a canister type filter, similar to the Toyota one. And the canister and cap are both made of a high density plastic, similar to what Toyota uses. The issue I think most 'new' mechanics are having is not understanding the difference between a 'normal' spin-on filter and the canister type used in this situation. The spin-on filter uses a oil seal that is compressed against the filter housing as the filter is tightened. The more torque applied, the more the oil seal/ring is compressed. With the canister type, an 'o' ring is used to provide a seal between the side of the filter cap and the filter housing. Once the 'o' ring has been compressed between the sides of the cap and housing, no amount of additional torque applied to the cap threads will increase the compression of the 'o' ring. One could thread the oil filter cap on hand tight, and as long as the 'o' ring is seated in the groove properly, it will not leak. The only reason for any torque value is to keep the oil filter cap from backing out of the base. All that happens when one applies too much torque when tightening the cap is damage to the cap. If one over tightens the cap and breaks it, the only fix is to replace the cap.
     
  7. Nov 21, 2020 at 11:16 PM
    #67
    Greg569

    Greg569 New Member

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    Dealership ripped me off so bad. Called dept consumer affairs.
    No one cares!
    Only one dealership ever touched my truck. After Warrantee I went to change oil. Skid plate held on by 3 hand tight bolts. Should be 7.
    dust cover ripped of of drivers side and I’m sure I wasn’t getting 0-20.
    Breaker bar to remove plastic cap.
    When with Mobile high miles improve gas 75k. Figured it was a sales gimmick but went from 12 to 18 mpg!
    Oil all over the place but can’t trust dealership.
    My 2
    cents
     
    Blasterrr and Krewcial like this.
  8. Nov 22, 2020 at 3:16 AM
    #68
    Krewcial

    Krewcial So good with my rod, I make fish come!

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    First free oil change (2 years free from Toyota) on the wife’s 2018 Rav4 adventure. I checked the dipstick after they supposedly changed it. The oil was just as dark as when I pulled into the stealership. They basically ran the car through the car wash and said they were done. Ended up not bothering to take it back to complain and just did it myself. SMH this is why I do my own maintenance.
     
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2020
  9. Nov 22, 2020 at 7:35 AM
    #69
    Greg569

    Greg569 New Member

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    No other option. Do it yourself. Biggest dealer in San Diego........ Almost destroyed my truck!
     
  10. Nov 28, 2020 at 7:04 PM
    #70
    Dalandshark

    Dalandshark Infected with 5G

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    Eibach Level LIft
    Hmm. Looks like I’ll be on this track.
     

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