DIRTY SEVEN CLUB

+25mm icon rebound wheels on 37s km3. Stock control arms, no bmc. Not touching the body Mount.

 

Something tells me if those were new KM3's you would definitely be rubbing that body mount!

 

You are probably right. But since u have a bmc so it may be a good offset. Maybe +35mm would be even further away.

 

Ya thats what Im guessing, I may go with the +35.

 

I have a +25 and I rub my icon upper arms and my front resi if I get close to full lock. But I also have a 13.5 bfg.

 

For anyone messing with the Hypertech inline Speedometer calibrator... It's initially a bit of a pain in the ass to program... but seems to work once you get it figured out.

Things I learned along the way...

#1... Your laptop MUST be connected to the internet every time you flash new settings to it... and apparently it sends the info back to Hypertech. I confirmed this when I spoke to tech support on the phone. They knew exactly what tire size I programmed into it and the time of day I did it when I gave them my unit serial number. When I tried to reflash it on the side of the road, it did nothing. Once I hotspotted to my cell phone, it worked fine.

#2... You must exit the program and unplug the calibrator from the laptop after programming, or it will hold the previous settings.

#3... be sure you download the "FTDI drivers"... it will not work unless you do this. PERIOD. I must have tried programming it a dozen times until I figured this out. Once the FTDI drivers were downloaded... instant results.

I had to mess around quite a bit to get the GPS to match my speedometer... but ultimately its darn near dead-on now.

I've attached a couple screenshots for reference. It's a very slick little device and install was a breeze.

While I had the cluster out, I took the opportunity to pick/pry the seatbelt warning LED out of my cluster... so no more annoying red light on my dash if my belt isnt latched.

I have BFG 37x12.5-18 MT KM3's @ 55psi and I settled on the settings below:

Correction factor ended up at 1.121

 

My 18x9 +25 Methods rubbed the factory cab mounts pretty hard with the 36.5" BFG's.
I did the cab mount chop and made a ton of clearance... but after the front end alignment the tires have gotten much much closer... to the point they will barely touch now.
Reason for this was because we needed to achieve zero camber in order to not chew up tires... and the only way to do it was to sacrifice caster.
Obviously a set of adjustable upper A-arms would make life much easier... but my truck runs and drives just fine as it is... so I may leave it alone. Camber and toe are perfect... caster is like .9 degrees... when I'd rather have 4.0+.

 

I am approaching new tire time, planning to do an AT, either a Ko2/3 or a Toyo AT3, right now running 35x12.50 ridge grapplers. BMC is done, I'm not super worried about clearance, I am wondering if I will like a 37 on stock gears vs what I'm running now. its a DD and sees a fair amount of interstate driving. Being in central OK, anything cool is 5+ hours away, so this thing does some 80-90mph road tripping, I love the 37 look, but wondering if it's for me! Thoughts?

 

Personally, even with my stock gearing on 35s I never go over70mph and just found myself and the truck happiest at around 65mph. I am also considering if I’d hate the power torque output on 37s but I think I am going to try. Especially with your nitro tires, I think they are a heavy 35, and if you go ko3 they maybe a light and small 37 so it may not be that bad

 

My 37" BFG KM3's are barely noticable compared to the 35" Nitto Terra's I pulled off. It was the biggest pleasant surprise of the whole jump up in size since I expected much worse.
In contrast, the jump from stock to 35's was very noticable.
I have no desire to regear at all. The truck pulls just fine as it is.

 

I've been running 37's for two years. Every two weeks, I do a 750 mile rountrip road trip for business and do 80mph for many hours. This is in mountainous country. Fine for me. I wont regear.

I'm familiar with regears as I did them to a couple of my jeeps. I think the Tundra has plenty of power for 37's and does not need a regear. Now, if you're towing, thats a different story...

 

For interstate driving I lockout the trans to 5th. Forgot the values but it's pretty equivalent to the final ratio 5.29s would net. This also gives my setup a ~1.5ish MPG bump.

 

Mine still drags my 8000lb boat and trailer around just fine with 37's.
I completely agree the Tundra's 380hp and 4.30 gearing is more than capable of handling a 37" tire and I also wont regear mine.

Obviously a 4.88 or 5.29 regear will really wake the truck up... but as several have already mentioned, it really isnt necessary to run 37's. Just pull the lever into S-mode and drop gears as needed when towing.
I think the bigger towing issue is the mushy rear leaf springs. I added Firestone airbags to my truck and it tows like a beast. I pulled this boat from Lake of the Ozarks Missouri to Atlanta GA last fall on my 35's and it didnt struggle a bit. The 37's havent felt any different to me than the 35's when towing.

 

Mine drives perfectly fine with stock gears. Day after getting the 37s I went up the mountain pass and it handled the incline like my 35s.

 

I love your setup. How high is your lift with the 37’s? I have a 3.5 RC on my 2014 SR5 and was hoping 37’s would fit without to much cutting. I plan on the BMC & bumper trim & pinch weld mod. That should be it? And what brand is your cap? Thank you.

 

Join the club last week. I’m getting 13.5mpg going 70mph on 5.29.
I’m also decently loaded up in the rear with a leitner bed rack and cvt mt hood.
Next phase: CB steering tie rods, pinch weld mod, and potentially Cab relo. @21tundy

 

Finally got the rest of the RT trails and mounted them up! Loving the look and ride.

 

Thanks!
Its just a 3/2 leveling kit with Firestone airbags added in the rear for towing. Your lift will be perfect with your intended combo/mods.
The cap is made by Leer. Found it locally for $800 and it was already the right color. I upgraded to a removable front window so I can still put the rear cab window down to haul long lumber.

 

*chops back of truck off for ground clearance.
*adds a 12" drop hitch.

lol

 

Oh I’m sorry…..i didn’t know that was against the rules. I just towed a boat 600 miles back from Georgia. Rather use a drop hitch than tear the stock bumper up even more on some mall curbs……

 

I was just being funny... not bustin balls. I have and use a 6" drop hitch on mine too.

 

All good lol i figured as much i was being a smart ass as well haha

 

Lookin Good Neighbor

 

13.5mpg on 5.29s loaded down like that?

I'm rocking 11 @ 70 on a good day (actually 76mph on GPS) and I'm "weightless."

 

Same. I get about 11mpg doing 80mph...weightless

 

Ok kinda curious here, and a stupid question...if my odo and speedo are appx 11-12% off (37s and 5.29) compared to what google maps data shows then my mpgs would also be appx 11-12% higher right.....

 

yes

 

so my 10.9 mpg would be closer to 12 mpg....

 

essentially.

 

TY... TBH more curious than concerned. I just fill up at half a tank every week unless on a road trip then push it to 1/4 tank...