DIRTY SEVEN CLUB

Honestly really liked my Baja Boss A/T. I had a hard time balancing 2 out of 4 of them but MT made it easy to warranty them out (at 80% because I did put a few thousand miles on them). But the 2 new ones were perfect. No complaints about them. They are on the heavier side but they’re my favorite tire I’ve ever ran on all my vehicles. Great looking tire too. I just always switch it up because I like trying something different but if you told me I could only run 1 tire rest of my life on my truck, it would be the Baja Boss A/Ts. Got me through a huge blizzard driving home from Vermont to NJ at 2 am. Can’t go wrong with them.

 

Guess the baja it is.

 

Nice! No cutting to fit those?

 

So you're in Western Ore. ? I lived 6 miles east of Newport. Toledo was my home for about a year and a half. Loved Oregon.

 

Need a build thread or more pictures of this. Badass build!

 

I know the area well. Newport is my most visited port, by far.

 

Will they fit

 

Based strictly on your pictures without any info on offset or lift, definitely.
…cmon dude

 

Seriously cmon bro they fit just like that.

P.S. my garage is full of parts waiting to be installed. Lol

 

lol do it!

 

Those Icons look nice!

 

Ordered new wheels. Ready for 37s!

 

New set of 37x12.50R17LT Cooper AT3 XLT to replace the Kanati Trail Hogs.

 

That wheel and tire set up is going to look killer man. Hurry up and get them installed and post them pics!

 

Waiting on the DRT kit so I can tackle all my suspension work Front and rear

 

Anyone Running Kmc's with some 37 ko2?

 

Maybe the tires? or may be the suspension he/she has doesn't compress as much?

I have KO2 37s, they run small, here it is compare to my old 285/75r18 AT3W, the Falken measured 34.9" and KO2 measure 36.3 ish, I also run 17x8.5 et0 and I have almost zero rub when compressed on Bilstein 8112 with Icon billet UCAs.

Yea, those tires run small, so easiest way to fit 37s.

 

I attached a video for reference, the most rubbing occurred at the rear where the tires would grab the top lip of the bedside fender well opening. If you turn up the volume you’ll be able to hear it.

Also will quote my build thread here which has some pictures to show rubbing at the top of the inner wheel well as well as some others. Note I do not have bump stop spacers to limit up travel. The tires meeting the inner fender wouldn’t be a problem if the friction didn’t act as a brake and slow the wheels down. Lol.

I’m glad you aren’t experiencing rubbing issues, but my thought is that you’re not flexing out the truck as you claim you are. But if you are, and aren’t rubbing, it would be great to learn what’s different because as you mentioned so many have had the same experience as me with 0mm offset. I’m running +25mm on my current Tundra but at 35” until I can install 5.29s and figure out the right solution for a spare. There certainly are much more wheel options with 0mm offset.

Could be a mix of things for sure. Tires could be a bit smaller, or bump stop spacers to limit the travel at full compression where the most rubbing occurs.

 

Yeah! I currently have 315/70r17s but I don't want to do 35s because it's essentially around the same. So maybe 37 KO2 which are probably around the 36". I'm on stock gears also.

 

Does anyone run 17s "KMC" wheels. I'm looking for some pictures with chromes ones? I really wanted the Brushed silver ones with black lip but unfortunately they don't fit.

 

Post a picture like this of the side of your truck and I'll photoshop the set in 2 seconds.

Side note, you can buy these Method 703s in machined that are probably lighter and +35 offset for $254 a pop.

 

After a few years of squeezing 37s onto my truck with Method 701’s and 0 offset, I switched out wheels for something less flashy. I went with the new Nomad Convoy in a 17X8.5” +25 offset. The difference surprised me. Not only do I get fewer “sick bro” comments from dudes at gas stations, but my tires no longer graze what is left of my cab mount. (Not much)
And, my steering generally feels better.. With the 0 offset of the Methods, when I would hit a pothole or a water bar, I could really feel it coming through the steering wheel. With less offset, I get less feedback to the steering wheel. I know it’s only 25mm on each side, but it feels like there’s less strain on all of the components in the front end. The Bead Grip of the Methods was nice reassurance, but I don’t think I will ever actually need it. I spend a decent amount of time in the backcountry, and 18-19psi is generally the lowest I end up airing down to.

 

Ok it's that time and I'm going to start installing the goodies I have collected snice December. I did a couple of searches and didn't get a straight answer regarding alignment for 37". I know I read it should max out the castor on the Icon UCA. Does anyone have a spec sheet I can follow or some numbers that I should have the alignment guy hit?

 

This is by no means a how to, it is just my experience from installing and messing with all of my own components and watching the professional alignment shops ignore my instructions and undo my work. I have not taken my truck to an actual Offroad shop so that is partially my own fault.

DO NOT just max out the caster from the UCA. If you leave the LCAs roughly neutral, and then use the UCAs to make the caster higher, you are actually going to pull the tire closer to the cab mount. The place you want to start is by adjusting the LCAs forward, away from the cab mount, then you can use an adjustable UCA (I am not familiar with the ICONs but I think they are fully adjustable for both caster and camber purposes) to set the caster and camber at whatever numbers you want to achieve in theory. Most people tend to throw out "max caster" when they are talking about non-adjustable UCAs, because the only way you can achieve it in that case is by pushing the LCA forward, which is desirable to fit big tires.

Long story short, with a fully adjustable UCA you should be able to push the tire forward away from the body mount and still be able to achieve perfectly factory alignment specs if that is what you want.

 

I have the Icon Tubular UCA's so unfortunately mine are not adjustable, but this is what I have seen people do with adjustable UCA's.

To get as much tire clearance make the LCA adjustments in a way that it will push the spindle AS FAR FORWARD as possible! This will obviously screw up your allignment, but then you correct for it by setting the UCA for your desired caster angle. I have not heard of anyone doing it backwards (UCA all the way forward and then use LCA to correct for caster).

Another thing to consider is that the more you push your tire forward with alignment adjustments the closer that tire will be to top of your fender liner. This means at full suspension flex you will 100% rub against that liner if you are on 37's. I would recommend you get the coastal offroads bumpstop spacers to help prevent this. Yes... you are losing 0.5 inches of uptravel, but it also means that you wont be in risk of doing the accidental fender liner delete mod. Also unless you are driving offroad at high speeds its unlikely you will ever even touch the top 0.5 inch of up travel.

 

Thank you for the quick replies. I did see some videos that the LCA should be adjusted to where the spindle is forward. Also saw some fancy lock out camber bolts being used. Then use the UCA to fine tweak the alignment.

I dont hit the trails often so the .5" will not effect me at all.

 

This is what I was referring to use with the lower control arms, lock them out. Then just do the adjustments with the UCA. Thought?

https://bisonoffroad.com/product/to...FN39bAutz7g-Z8onBvtA_4mUHVx9OpJ4aAstZEALw_wcB

 

One step closer. Pickup tires tomorrow.

Lets see if I can fit 37s (KO2s) with no CMC.

 

How’s the ride compare going from the 35” Falken to your 37” KO2?

 

Better, the KO2s are c-load tires, so they ride very cushy.