DIRTY SEVEN CLUB

A few ways…

Find a loading ramp and back up one rear tire. That’ll compress the opposite front corner for you.

If you have access to a forklift, use it to lift a rear tire. Go till another tire starts lifting. Same as the ramp, but easier.

Grab four beers and head for your local trails. Jump truck.

 

I had to run 2 - 1/4" spacers per side with my icons to get full lift. Icon has a known problem with not lifting the tundras as advertised.
Just going by pics, you have a ton of lift up front, not sure you'd want more lift. I have less fender to tire clearance and clear 37s on 0mm offset.
As some guys mentioned an alignment is needed to dial your caster out for more clearance.

 

I suppose we can just be honest here, right?

I’d wager that only a few members here actually use their Tundras in situations that necessitate the ability to turn their steering lock-to-lock without rubbing throughout the entire range of suspension cycle. Most of us have a lift and fancy suspension parts because it looks cool and improves drivability.

This isn’t a dig on anyone at all! I’m pretty certain that the only reason I’ve never experienced tire rub is because I don’t wheel this truck like that. I’ve hit my bump stops many times, but it’s always been from little jumps, rollers, launching off big curbs, etc. Tires pointed straight-ish. It’s a lot of fun to let my suspension eat at higher speeds, but it’s not a rock crawler or trail rig.

What I’m saying is that you only need the tire clearance to accommodate what you’re actually gonna do with the truck. For most of us, it’s perfectly acceptable to not be able to cleanly turn full lock when the front tire is stuffed into the fender and the bump stop is screaming.

 

I have a 18 sitting on a rough country 6inch lift on 35s currently. I want to run 37s but not sure on the offset I’m going to need to clear the knuckle the kits comes with. Also would love to know if anyone with the same lift is running 17s and 37s

 

Agreed on the statement. I think my truck will always be a work in progress, so eventually being able to run 37s all the way to full bump and lock to lock would be goals.

 

All the clearance needed and then some lol

 

Hey all, got a few questions to see if anybody may have an answer. Has anybody ran the coachbuilder oe tie rods with a maxtrac spindle on a 17X9 -12 mm wheel. To add the cherry on top anyone do it with bolt in king 3.0 front coilovers? concerned on clearance. moving from a 18x9 37x13.50 to a 17x9-12mm 37x12.50 tire this is tie rod clearanc with a method 17x8.5 0mm offset backspacing between the 17x9-12mm and method shown in the photo is practically the same. Dave from coachbuilder said it would work but didnt know if anyone had some first hand experience. Thanks!
sway bar will be removed. When king 3.0s go in want to know clearance on tie rod to coil bucket and wheel to tie rod contact. Thanks

 

King 3.0 is always a snug especially by the tie rod. Hell my 2.5 is close lol I’d be cautious and double if you have diff drop. That rolls the case back just enough on some setups to cause rubbing in certain areas. Since space will be limited on the 3.0

 

So I’m not worried too much on diff as I am 2wd I guess I’ll be the guinea pig lol should have updates coming friday

 

Made the jump today.

 

MEATY

 

Going with aftermarket bumper? Looks real close up front.

 

NICE!

 

Down the road I will. It is close up front. Just needs a little trimming.

 

Can anyone give me a reality check?

Ive been on a mission to soften up the ride in the tundra since i bought it.

I bought it with 85k miles LT285/70/17's 10PR Load range E Toyo RT's. It also has Icon 2.5 RR's with about 2" of threads showing, and recently rebuilt (not revalved). All installed within 12 months, less thank 10k miles on them.

I was under the impression that some ways to soften the ride could be:
1. add sidewall (taller tier, same size rim)
2. Go with a softer compound tire, (IE Load Range C/D vs E)
3. Different shocks / valving / spring rates

The ride, specifically on harsh washboard desert roads where i live to get to my house, is so bad (dashboard rattling apart, etc) that I decided to cough up the money and replace the almost new RT's for 37" Toyo MT's.

My thought was that by going with ~4" more sidewall and moving from a 10ply "E" AT to an 8ply "D" MT tire I would be improving the "cushion" and equate to a softer ride.

The result has been the opposite, these tires seem even more stiff, and jarring. Regardless of PSI. I run both tires around 14psi in town (all desert roads) and ~30psi on the road and they just seem overall less comfortable / soft at these settings than the 285 RT's.

What did I do wrong here? do I need to look at replacing the Icon's due to their digressive valving? Was my theory wrong from the beginning and the larger MT is just stiffer? Is the increased weight per tire overloading the shock articulation some how?

I'm really suffering with the 10-30mph range over harsh washboards / potholes etc. Below 10mpg its fine, over 30-35+mph its fine also, but I cant just fly around at those speeds everywhere. It's about 2 miles up a rough desert road to my house.

If you read all of that, thank you! please let me know what you think/ suggest (including just deal with it because its a tundra and not something that rides better).

 

Throwing the shocks away, or selling, might not be my first choice. Maybe time to find a shock tuner that can change the valving for you? If I’m not mistaken, Icon shocks are rebuildable, yeah? Lotta money in shocks to not be happy.

 

I agree, and unfortunately, I do not have a lot to compare it to.

Another challenge is I live in Baja California Sur Mexico. Finding someone you can trust to work on your truck is challenging, let alone someone that you trust to revalve an icon shock. Shipping them up to the US would take about 2 weeks minimum round trip plus the time to work on them, the truck would be down ~3 weeks, and I am estimating it would probably cost me ~$500 to do the work (on the front coil overs) and at least another $200 for shipping. I would hate to drop $700 into them if what I am really after is a progressive/linear piston shock like Fox or King. A set of Adjustable King or FOX front coil overs with accutunes adventure tune (softest tune available) will run about $2200-$2500, and maybe I can sell my Icon's for $1000. So ~$700 to revalve (and 3 weeks without the truck) vs $1200-$1500 to replace. Both options are risky if the result isn't much different than where I am at right now.

Another consideration is the 285 Toyo RT weight was 60lbs each. the 37" toyo MT are 84lbs each.

Ive asked other members with the 37" toyo MT's how they ride and they say "amazing" so its hard to say. Ride is so subjective...

The only other thing I can think of is maybe it has 700lb springs on it? stock weight front end, so maybe it needs a 600lbs spring? Is there anyway to check what rate spring it is?

 

Oof. Your situation does throw a wrench in this!
Not a bad idea to buy a new set of shocks through Accutune and have them valved for your application. Sell those Icons as quickly as you can to recover some funds is a good plan.

For comparison, I have 700# springs on my 2.5” ADS coilovers and love them. But I’m sure they’d still be fine with a 650# spring, which I believe was their other “standard” option. I’d reach out to Accutune and pick their brain. If you like what they’re saying, give it a whirl. Both King and Fox are good options and will get you away from the digressive piston that you currently have. I bet that will make a big difference.

I don’t think it’s the tires!!!


Now, tell me more about BCS! Wife and I are headed to Loreto for a week this June to check it out. The area has my attention for retirement…. My grandparents lived in San Carlos, Sonora when I was a kid and I loved visiting. Something about the weather, the water, and the people…. How can you go wrong?!?

 

I am excited to announce that as of tomorrow, I will officially be part of the dirty sevens club! I will be dropping off the truck at discount tire for some 37x12.5r20 Nitto Trail Grapplers. They are installing new sensors as well since 1 is bad. The stats on my truck are 6" BDS lift with Fox coils and shocks. It's running on 20x9 with a 0mm offset. I'll be doing the BMC shortly after, just waiting to see how much and what I'll have too trim! I'll post pictures once I get it out of the shop, also some now in its current set up, bald 35x12.5r20 Nittos".

 

Truck will look badass with that lift and 37s!

 

Thanks! I am excited. Kind of like a kid on Christmas eve night that can't go to sleep hahaha

 

Just wanted to say I have the Icon 2.5 RR’s with the CDCV’s and you can make them pretty soft in the adjustments.

I know sending your current shocks off is a pain, but I’d hope it would be cheaper to have them upgraded to the CDCV’s during a rebuild than sourcing new coilovers.

 

That is an interesting idea. Every time ive reached out to Icon for help theyve pretty much given me the cold shoulder since i am not the original purchaser of the shocks and also had crazy crazy lead times, couldnt commit to any kind of turn around, etc etc. I cant risk my truck being unusable for weeks to months its my daily work horse. I will reach back out to them and see if things have changed.

I really don't know who to believe. Accutune only offers Fox/King, and their recommendation is FOX with their adventure tune + a 500lbs Eibach spring.

Looking through the many articles on ShockSurplus it looks like they say that Fox is softer than the eibach, yet when i ask their sales reps they say eibach is the softest for the tundra. And then when i tell them that I have a 85lbs 37" tire they say go with Dobinson.

Some folks on here say eibach was the softest thing theyve ever experienced, which was a problem with body roll and towing. I dont mind body roll honestly if it floats over the chop.

So im down to:
-Find someone to try and revalave these Icons with a softer shim stack, maybe a different piston? (accutune won't touch Icon)
-Send them to Icon and get the upgraded CDCV's
-Buy some Fox 2.5's with 500lbs spring and adventure tune from Accutune
-Buy some Eibach Pro truck coilovers
-Buy some Dobinson Coil overs.

hoping someone can chime in here and help direct me to the softest option. Thanks!

As for Baja, its great!! Weve lived here for over 2 years now, full time offroad, its rugged. Loreto is nice, just depends what type of hobbies/activities you're into. I am down near La Paz in a town called La Ventana, message me directly happy to share more about the pros/cons of baja life...

 

I would stay away from shock surplus. Accutune or filthy motorsports can assist in what you need. Get a setup that's valved correctly etc for you specific needs and you'll see a significant difference

 

@BajaSurTundra
This is going to be a bit long - sorry. Also, I don't have experience with Icon or their valving you're referencing.

Your assumptions above were correct. If you want to read into the dynamics, search for "2 DoF quarter car model" for some state space modeling background. I'll try to summarize the principles as I did for a buddy of mine with a Wrangler 4XE (similar weight to a Tundra) who went with 2.5" Fox bodies and Accutune's adventure valving.

You want the suspension to work, meaning it articulates as much as possible for whatever dynamics you throw at it. A guy that runs whoops and jumps vs one that casually rides trails need different spring rates. Look for the lowest rate which will (a) keep the body lifted to whatever clearance you want given the weight you have and (b) can absorb the hits you hand it. He and I both got the softest springs we could find. For damping, it's more subjective, but you don't want to be so aggressive that you're critically damped (jarring), nor do you want underdamped (bouncy). Look up "PID damping curves" for visualizations. For riding on roads, his underdamped setting gives too much body roll, but just a few clicks and it's fixed.

It sounds like you need to lower the spring rate and soften the damping. If you can do that with the Icons and swap to some softer springs, that'll be the way to go (cheaper). The 37s will help as those'll soften the sidewall properties.

For reference, I have 2.0" Eibach Pros without RRs and have to crawl in comparison to the Wrangler on trail. It's that drastic. He can be going 35MPH directly up and onto a curb while feeling minimal in the cab. His setup wouldn't work for jumping, but it works well for trails and moderate/aggressive rock crawling. So well that another friend became an Accutune dealer in our area because so many local Jeep guys swapped to the Accutune setup after riding in my friend's Wrangler.

 

My vote is to go with Accutune’s suggestion after they’ve heard what you’re looking to accomplish.

A 500# spring date sounds soft to me, but I have nothing to base that on other than it’s lighter than what I have. I’d trust that Accutune has a zillion times more experience with this than me, and they’ll likely steer you in the right direction.

get that done and sell off the Icons later.

 

Okay you all! Here is the Tundra with the 37s! It good to be part of the Dirty7s group! NOTE, I have a black hood bulge, I am waiting for my black TRD Pro lower grille to come in.

 

Looks fucking amazing!!

 

Thanks! It drives so much better, I honestly don't feel much difference in acceleration and shifting from the 35s. Here are more photos.

 

Those nittos