Differential and Transfer Case Fluid Change

Im pretty ready now to get this going. I was very hesitant at first, but with all the info you have provided me and the forum. Im ready to get this going.

 

I know what you mean. The first time you do this (or anything else really lol) you take your time, go over everthing twice as you're doing it and make sure you're doing it correctly, but it's really not that bad. The hardest part is just getting your mind set on which oil you're gonna use and getting the necessary tools to do the job correctly. One thing I forgot to mention was that I had a hard ass time getting the rear diff fill plug off, ended up using a breaker bar on it and came off with almost no effort using that.

 

I definitely have the gear oil made up already. I will for sure read this thread again to refresh this old brain of mine. Just in case i miss anything. Thanks

 

This is all great stuff. Now to get rid of the rear suspension squeak and I’ll be all set.

 

@mech_engineer09 , I got a question, on the crush washer, does the flat end goes to the plug and the rounded side goes to diff side. Or the opposite, or it doesn’t matter. Thanks

 

I did rounded side towards the diff and flat towards the plug. No leaks

 

Awesome, thank you.

 

Don't waste your money please. Use Royal Purple Synchromax in the transfer case and you and your wallet can thank me later. . I also accept beer. Completely compatible with that ridiculously priced golden child oil (genuine LF) from Toyota.

https://www.royalpurple.com/product/synchromax-manual-transmission-fluid/

 

This is a good tread that will answer the age old question over 75W for the transfer case. Thanks to captrussia253 from 4runners.com.

https://www.4runners.com/threads/would-you-use-this-instead-of-the-70-toyota-fluid.12858/

 

@mech_engineer09 , I want to say thank you for all the advice the Amsoil worked out great. I bought 6 qt and I have some extra in the container, the truck was leveled I waited till it started dripping and i stop. Im going for a ride , do I top it off with the remainder or I'm good. Thanks you for everyone also with the advice.

 

Thanks for posting this.

 

I’m gonna do an early drain & fill at 15k with Amsoil in the diffs and Ravenol 75W in the TC. Thread is bookmarked. Thanks for the info, all! Especially @mech_engineer09

 

Do yourself a favor and get the Lexus front diff drain and fill plugs since you're doing an early miles fluid swap. Those 10mm Allens are hateful things IMO.

Front diff drain plug Lexus PN 90341-24016.

Front diff fill plug Lexus PN 90341-18060.

Apx $40 for the two at a Lexus dealer and they'll throw in the washers.

 

This will work for the 2017 Tundra . And you use the same washer also. Thanks for the info I just changed mine this weekend and would prefer this if it’s a direct change.

 

Good prices here




Part No.: 90341-24016PLUG, STRAIGHT SCREW$8.08

Part No.: 90341-18060PLUG, STRAIGHT SCREW$8.05

 

thanks for sharing those I just ordered them for $24 shipped. Hard to beat that.

 

So what kind of socket works best for the transfer case plugs? I bought a set of drain plug sockets. Square drive 8mm and 10 mm and of course it seems that 9mm is what I need, but doesn’t seem to be a common socket.

 

You can just use a 3/8 drive ratchet on the BorgWarner transfer cases, earlier models have the typical 24mm bolt. The plugs in the transfer case are not in very tight at all, you will be surprised how easily they come out. I'd suggest removing the little skid plate, its not necessary but if you dont the fluid will drain in it, it has a hole but still, its simple to remove. Make sure to use Toyota 75w fluid, thats what it calls for, Ravenol is the only aftermarket supplier at the moment if you dont want to spend the money on the OEM cans.

 

Awesome. Thanks !

 

not sure if mentioned but I would use a liquid thread sealant. and I couldnt get near the recommended torque, just felt too tight and was no way near that originally

 

Yeah maybe i should have used some sealant but I didn't and luckily no leaks, I used where the sealant stopped to know how far to put it back in.

 

Those Amsoil bags are the best for tight spots. The Sequoia rear end was gonna suck if I had to squeeze from a hard bottle.

 

Slippery Pete pumps are great too, the one that fits in a normal quart size engine oil quart container is my favorite. I use it for tranny fluid and used it for the transfer case by pouring the 75W can into an old WS bottle. Valvoline is in bags now too, haven't tried them yet though.

 

Are you referring to the aluminum transfer case? I marked where the plugs were with a sharpie and used Teflon tape when screwing them back in to the spot I marked. No torquing necessary

 

Hmm ain't heard of those... I'll do some research.

 

I use a 200ml Mighty Max syringe for the front diff.

200cc Oil Fluid Extractor, Fluid Syringe Pump Manual Suction Vacuum Fuel for ATV's, Boats, Farm Equipment, Industrial Gear Boxes, Motor Vehicles, Oil Change Evacuation Pump

$14 200cc Oil Fluid Extractor, Fluid Syringe Pump Manual Suction Vacuum Fuel for ATV's, Boats, Farm Equipment, Industrial Gear Boxes, Motor Vehicles, Oil Change Evacuation Pump

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KXN6FVD

Any regular bottle will work for the rear, and the Ravenol 75w goes in the T-case easily with the extended hose on their bottles.


I also use the extractor for power steering fluid swaps.

 

Not quite midnight here in Oregon….
I use the extractor syringe to fill the front diff. I drain it like anyone else by dumping it into a pan.

I use 75w in the transfer case. The Ravenol quart bottles have a nice extendable tube that makes filling the transfer case easy without a pump.

I have more uses for the extractor than a little oil pump, but I am familiar with them. I’ve used them in the past. I prefer the extractor though. Either one will do the job.

 

Yup Im an idiot and cant read lol I'm the one who shouldn't be posting 4th of July weekend at 2am. 75w definitely not meant for the transmission! Posts deleted.

 

Hey everyone, so I read about all the different metals in the current transfer case so I searched a bunch of fluids. I ended up going with redline mt-lv, which is okay for the metals within the toyota transfer case and is a 75w. They even specify it for toyota and much cheaper then toyota's fluid. Maybe this will help everyone out.