DD SSC2 Sports vs Pro

My insanity? OOF. I was impressed with the willingness to help

 

I don’t keep many of these heat shrink butt splices as I am not a huge fan of those so just a mock up indeed, but for the open barrel splice that is a completed in-insulated termination, along with the tool die and an new Open barrel splice.

 

Awesome - thank you @BiggHertz - I'm impressed by you. Bravo

 

Ah, I read that wrong - it's not about me.

 

Ask him if he uses a lighter or heat gun on his heat shrink though… it’s ok, nobody is perfect

 

Thanks! This is SUPER HELPFUL!!! Where were you when I was getto wiring my lights last time! My plan is to rewire my ditch lights since I may or may not have used a wire nut....

 

It may be genius if it's a lighter, ever start to melt split loom or expanding loom with a heat gun? I have.

 

@BiggHertz Is this the same thing? I would prefer to not have 250 of the same connectors.

$24 330PCS haisstronica Heat Shrink Butt Connectors-Marine Grade Waterproof Electrical Crimp Wire Connectors Kit-Tinned Red Copper Insulated, for Boat,Truck,Stereo,Joint(4Colors/4Sizes)

https://www.amazon.com/Haisstronica...ce+electrical+connectors,industrial,55&sr=1-3

 

You’re most certainly welcome. And I’ll just ignore the wirenut part….

 

Yup, same thing.

 

sounds like you may have some experience with too much heat lol

 

When I get back to town you can help me route the sprinkler wire for my chase lights and put electrical tape on all the wirenuts.

 

I do, but even turned down it's hard to find that line of hot enough/too hot when shrinking over loom. But, I did get there

 

@BiggHertz why not use a bus bar and terminate each wire individually? A little bit safer/cleaner and less risk of a wire wiggling loose.

 

a bus bar is just that, a common bus for a singular circuit. So for every circuit, you’ll require a bus bar.

Bus bar example:

12 Terminal Power Distribution Block Bus Bar - Made in USA (Updated Cover)

12 Terminal Power Distribution Block Bus Bar - Made in USA (Updated Cover)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09B1PM91M?_encoding=UTF8

Are you referring to a barrier strip in combination with spade and/or ring connectors?

Barrier strip example:

NTE Electronics 25-B500-10 Series 25-B500 Terminal Block Barrier Strip, Dual Row Panel Mount, 20 Amp, Dual Row, 10 Pole, 9.50 mm Pitch, 300V, 22-14 AWG Wire Range

NTE Electronics 25-B500-10 Series 25-B500 Terminal Block Barrier Strip, Dual Row Panel Mount, 20 Amp, Dual Row, 10 Pole, 9.50 mm Pitch, 300V, 22-14 AWG Wire Range

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0084LH4ZG

Also, in a properly crimped termination, the wire will break before the termination point will…very much like a proper weld is stronger then the base material that is being welded, assumption being proper system parameters are in use (conductor, connector type, connector sizing, procedure and tooling)

-JS

 

I'm no automotive electrical guru but I love me some posi-taps

 

Thanks for the help, again!

 

All I do for work is electrical wiring on commercial trucks. Everything is always butt splices with the exception of 6 gauge and above up to 4/0 then it is a compression crimper with lugs for power and grounding of the truck. The hand crimpers are tested twice a year too make sure they make a good strong crimp without crushing the wires. We have small torches to shrink the butt splices but when you only are doing a few a Bic lighter is more then enough heat. Myself, I would never use a Posi Tap do to its lack of weatherproofing. I have had to take out some of the splices that have been shrunk down and you will pull off the sheathing of the wire before the plastic of the butt splice.

 

great information - thank you