Dash cam tap

Whatever you say man, just telling you my viofi 119 DOES NOT function like your video.

Take it how you want and do whatever you think is right, but I'm 100% telling you no way Toyota would limit the power to a dashcam when the truck goes auto start/stop

 

Ok, just finished installing my A119 w/o GPS unit using the dongar harness to the unused plug in the headliner. Other than damaging one of the red clips a little on the sunglass holder it went great (if anyone has that part number). I will post pics later.

As for the A119, it did NOT turn off during the auto stop. It kept recording and did not skip a beat when the engine restarted.

 

I thought you were modifying the Dongar harness (without it's power supply) to connect the hardwire kit to both the switched and constant wires? Or else someone here was. If you are using the standard Dongar just connected only to the switched circuit like I did, then I will scratch my head because I have a real hard time believing that my Tundra was built and operates differently than any other or that the Viofo 229 works differently from the Viofo 129. And mine is doing exactly as it is supposed to do when it loses power, which is shut down. And it does exactly what it is supposed to do when power is applied, which is to reboot. My truck is cutting power to that circuit on auto restart. Simple as that. In any case if it works for you, carry on. And I'll get mine to work properly for me in the next couple of days with the hard wire kit.

I wish I had access to the wiring schematics for the Tundra so I could see what all happens during auto stop and more importantly the auto restart. Maybe ryanwgregg or a tech on here can have a look at this.

Edit: maybe I'll do a quick test with just the cam disconnected from the gps module to see if that makes a difference since you say yours does not have GPS.


QUOTE="vegask, post: 3082602, member: 90167"]Ok, just finished installing my A119 w/o GPS unit using the dongar harness to the unused plug in the headliner. Other than damaging one of the red clips a little on the sunglass holder it went great (if anyone has that part number). I will post pics later.

As for the A119, it did NOT turn off during the auto stop. It kept recording and did not skip a beat when the engine restarted.[/QUOTE]

 

Here I believe is the wiring for the Optional Connector (Dashcam connector) in the overhead console.

 

Just adding some comments to the thread that I haven't seen mentioned yet:

While the sunglass holder is easy to remove, you might want to have the red clips on standby, one broke on me so I'll be ordering spares.

There is room for extra cable over the driver/passenger side visors, comes in handy for those who have hard wire kits with fuses and a bunch of cable they don't want to trim.

Dongar will ship cables to support power for accessory or battery, but not both. Pick up some taps to make your own, I went this route to avoid splicing the OEM cable. With cables on the bottom and lock/clip on top, the ground will remain the same (2nd in from the left), battery is far right, accessory is 2nd in from the right.

Running a cable to the rear cam is extremely easy, I just followed the gaps/trim along the top of the passenger side compartment.

If anyone wants/needs pictures that haven't already been posted, let me know and I'll grab them next time I'm out there.

 

I ran my tests this morning and the mystery is mostly solved... bottom line, it is the GPS module causing this. For the first test I removed the main cam from the GPS mount and also unplugged the rear cam. Did some auto stop/starts, cam did not reboot! Yay. Then I left the main cam unplugged from the GPS mount but plugged the rear cam back in and did some more auto stop/starts. Cam did not reboot. OK. Then I reconnected the cam to the GPS mount, cam reboots every auto stop/start just as before.

Finally, I went into the app and turned off the GPS and did some more tests. Cam did not reboot. So, it must be the extra power draw of the GPS receiver that causes the cam to not survive the power dropout during the engine start portion of the auto start/stop without rebooting.

All I can definitely draw from all this is to say that this is a problem for this particular cam, Viofo A229 Duo using the Dongar adapter with single switched power supply. May or may not be an issue for other brands or models and I'll like to hear... but only from folks that have a full featured cam running GPS since that is the problem. And remember, the dropout/reboot happens ONLY during the START portion of an auto stop/start event.

As for my A229, I am running with GPS off for now, but I like having the vehicle speed overlay and route history so I will install the official hardwire kit when I get a chance. And probably abandon the Dongar in place since it is such a bear to get at the connector.

The Dongar adapter is certainly a neat idea and a neat install, but it may not be appropriate for cams that are running GPS. I'd try to find some real world reports from knowledgeable users and installers of the specific cam you want before going this route. Although it is only $29 so maybe worth a try. IDK and YMMV.

 

If you figure out the part number for those red clips please post them. I destroyed 2 of the 3 prongs on one of them.

 

Just got finished installing the Viofo HK4 hardwire kit. This is similar to the ones for the older 129 cams except it has a USB-C plug that agrees with the 229 camera input socket. No more issues with rebooting at all. I ended up using fuse taps in the passenger side fuse box... "Amp 1" for constant 12v and "Wiper RR" for switched 12V. There is also a nice stud with a 10mm bolt at the top rear of the passenger footwell for the ground connection. All in all, easy peasy. Glad to have this rebooting PITA behind me.

Oh, there is a 4-position switch on the power supply that sets a low voltage cutoff between 11.8 and 12.4V for parking mode to keep from killing your battery. I don't plan to use parking mode routinely but it can come in handy if and when you need to park somewhere sketchy.

 

Good to know that the hardwire kit works well with the truck. Was accessing the passenger side fuse box pretty easy? Can the fuse box cover close with all the add-a-circuit fuses?

I'm still debating whether to tap into console light plug or the fuse box route..

 

Getting the panel under the dash off was easy, just push the clips with your fingers one by one. And "getting to" the fuse box was easy, but doing anything with it was a bit difficult because it is mounted horizontally and you have to get down in the footwell and work up there. Takes a bit of contortion and you need to have the seat pushed back all the way to have some room.

And no, the box cover will not reinstall with add-a-fuses in there. That's too bad but not a showstopper. I put the cover in the glove box so it will be there for reference. I also printed out a photo of it and laminated it to keep with the manuals. If I get real industrious I may try to do a 3D print design for one that has more headroom and some side outlets for wires. But that will be a pretty challenging thing to make.

 

Here is a thread where I posted a replacement fuse box cover for 3D printing.

3D Print - new fuse cover for fuse tap add-a-circuit | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)

 

The Red Pannel Clip is 9046709240 easy to find on Amazon.

 

Thanks for the additional insight. The fuse box is definitely the more straightforward approach IMO and you'd likely have to take the A-pillar off anyway if you're running a rear camera. I am going to avoid routing it thru the headliner due to all the airbags, and just run it down the footwell trims.

That's awesome that you were able to print one yourself and it looks clean as hell! Nice to have the peace of mind of protecting all the fuses. Would you consider mass producing?

 

Fuse box route is certainly more reliable, especially if you are running a GPS cam, and especially a Viofo. That Dongar adapter is cool but the circuit it taps loses power momentarily during auto restarts and will cause some cams to reboot. It seems some of the basic ones without GPS survive those restarts... mine actually did when I disconnected it from the GPS mount... but I have not seen a report of a GPS cam that does. But maybe some have bigger capacitors and can? IDK.

The fuses don't really need to be covered. The fuse box is already protected by the under dash panel and that box is stuffed way up there out of harms way. But the cover does have the fuse map on it so w/o the cover it would be best to keep a photo of that in the glove box. I have no plans to mass produce these covers, too much trouble for onesies and twosies tying up my printer. Now if 1000 people wanted one that might be different. Have to get more printers, refine the model, and think about logistics. Nah, I am retired and want to stay that way. But, I may have a couple of prototypes I can let go in a couple of days.

IMO the tray along the door sill is the way to go with the rear cam cables. The A-pillar comes off very easily. Only fiddly part is getting it back in place. There is a rear tab that when inserted up by the windshield pushes the base of the pillar trim up on the dash and it can be tough to get it past that point. But it will go.

 

I would've thought that using the circuit in the center dome light would be equivalent since you're tapping into the accessory, constant, and ground wires with the Viofo hardwire kit. I would've created my own adapter rather than using the Dongar, which I understand to use two wires instead of three. That's strange that it cuts off power during auto-start though... I already bought the expensive OEM plug and terminal wires

Keep me posted if you decide to let go of your prototypes

 

You really need to see the entire vehicle electrical schematic to see what bus that power comes from and what relays or switches are in the circuit... and under what circumstances they are hot or not. I don't have access to that. But if you bought the actual OEM connector you might be OK, because it might also tap constant 12V whereas the Dongar configured for switched power doesn't. Without the full schematics you pays your $ and tales your chances.

 

Is that because of the airbags or ? Asking because I ran mine above with no issues, just want to make sure I'm not overlooking something.

 

If you route the rear cam cable along the floor in the door sill tray the a-pillar needs to come off to convey it into the front of the headliner. IMO it is easier and safer than trying to fish it through the headliner. Although some here have done that but I'd like to see how that's done in person before trying it.

 

Just tested mine (I normally disable auto stop) and my camera stayed powered on without issue. I doubt it's the circuit or capacitors. The circuit, like other accessories stay powered during auto stop and the capacitors only come into play when there is no power.

Maybe something to do with the USB port/chip, or bad cable you got? I mention this because I bought the dongar cable so I could tap the cables directly (ground, switches, direct) so I don't plug into the USB port itself

 

I have always done the door sills so for me it was just easier and I don't like to risk damaging the headliner. Have some bad memories of falling down headliners from back in the day. I am not sure where the air bags are up there.

 

What cam do you have? And it doesn't happen when you stop. It only happens when it restarts so you might be missing it, especially if the cam is over on the passenger side. But if your works, good for you. You cam might be immune.

 

I didn't fish mine through the headline (I have the sunroof, so that would be more of a chore), just tucked it in the headliner at the windshield, tucked in the tops of the pillers next to each window, tucked into the door seals, then again at the headliner in the rear.

 

Sounds good. It's really tight there above B-pillar. I didn't want to take any of that apart.

 

BlackVue DR900x and it's mounted to the mirror/dead center. I have parking mode enabled with voice alerts as well (instant when I actually power off), so hard to miss.

 

Good to know the Blackvue can survive those restarts. I almost got one of those but I have had Viofo before and had really good luck. I don't use parking mode much with mine, only when parking somewhere sketchy.

 

Just remove the plug/clip so you can remove/undo the dongar adapter. The clip itself is attached via a circular/round piece of flexible plastic, I was able to remove mine by lifting the clip up/out by one side, then the other. Went back in without issue.

 

It'll stay in case I change cams in the future. BTW, I don't understand how you are using parking mode with the Dongar since it is only switched power. You need constant 12V for that when acc is off.

 

You can specify in the comments when you order if you want yours switched or constant.

I only ordered the adapter so I can tap the wires directly and not damage the OEM cable. Posted this earlier, but if the cables are flat with the clip on top, the ground will be second from the left, constant will be far right, switched is second from the right

 

Sorry to post in an older thread, I read other threads but that didn't help, trying to hardwire thinkware cam, but can't find constant power fuse. I tried all the fuses while truck is off and I can't get anything even the empty fuse for fuel door open. not sure what's wrong here?? it's a 1794 non hybrid.
Any help appreciated.

 

Save yourself some headache and get the dongar harness. It attaches to the plug near the auto dimming mirror. Worth every penny.

This is the one I got, but double check it will work for you.
https://dongar.tech/products/toyota5pin?_pos=1&_sid=e818bcc02&_ss=r