Damn CEL after the spark plug change

So, after my last post about changing spark plugs (the fun 1, that went totally fucking sideways) https://www.tundras.com/threads/jus...revious-person-was-capable-of-anything.58838/ I've ran into a strange situation. Just thought I'd see what thoughts were.. here we go!

After about a week of driving in town, went on a 200 mile round trip to get my kiddo, everything was fine. About 4 days later taking her back to her mother, temp was mid 40's, cel light pops on. Won't go into overdrive. Went into retard limp mode to save engine..so I get to Crouse at 3000 rpm doing 65mph. Fanfuckingtastic! Get home, disconnected battery codes goes away for a a week. Comes back on when I go back the next week, almost same exact spot mileage wise it did before.

Get it on buddies scanner, (pic below) he clears it, comes right back on after start up. First couple times I was able to clear by disconnecting. Seems that if engine is warm it'll come back on fairly quickly. 15 miles or so. I needed it to store code so he could read it so I stopped trying to clear. A week goes by and I can clear it. We walk through what I've done etc. Change plugs, lightly spray down engine bay to clean about a week prior to this starting.
Anyways, I wake up this morning and it's gone. No CEL. I'm changing plugs, again. Putting in densos iridiums. I have done a lot of reading about the spark plugs not meshing if they are not iridium, and I have also read about the rat's nest knock sensor issues people have had I just find it hard to believe that that happened in such a short period of time when it hasn't happened in the last four years of owning the truck but I will take a look. I am also going to switch to a higher octane gas than this ethanol bullshit, and clean the MAF sensor. I will report back. Hopefully once this figured out if somebody has the same issue this will help with everyone's input.

 

Heyyy, it was the Holiday season and we settled quite a few things

 

Are you sure the knock sensor code is related to replacing the spark plugs?

 

edit....overlooked that when first reading. Given the location and given P0332 concerns a short in sensor, you possibly have water causing a short to gnd of that sensor ?

 

Remind us again. Did you install new copper core plugs the first time? Now you swapped those out and put in Iridiums? The 2002 specs coppers. 2006 is ?

Remembering back your coil packs were pretty gnarly, but you didn’t have this Knock Sensor code.

Maybe some water got up on the Knock Sensor (close to Starter) when you were hosing the engine?

I did this to my Starter once. Truck ran fine the day I did the wash. Hosed her off and drove around all day. No problems starting. Next morning the Starter wouldn’t start, but would click. I worked the key for about 20 minutes until she juiced up and finally turned over. Took her to high dolla service shop and they did the dongle codes. Not sure what Cooter was staring at on the screen, but the truck ran fine the rest of the day. Never a problem since.

Also, only time I thought the world was ending for my truck was a few years ago when she went into ‘limp mode’ in town due to a bad #5 ignition coil. Engine felt off balance and shaky. I had to call a psychiatrist when I got home. For future reference, manual says to keep RPMS down to minimum and keep speed below 30mph (iirc) until getting to final destination.

Hope this helps.

 

No, but they are 1 variable that changed it was running fine before

 

Copper core Platinum tipped. 2006 specs are iridium. I know I know...the old ones were iridium Bosch.

@BubbaW I suppose could be, but I'd think by now it's have dried up enough. It didn't do it for 2ish weeks and 200+ miles.

I figure I change the plugs out to what's spec'd and I get to inspect coils and new plugs again...

 

Easy enough to test for bad coil?

 

Sure, it's extremely easy and can be checked numerous ways w/o or with diagnostic tools.

 

Are your ignition coils still in the same condition shown in the thread you linked to in your first post ?

If the answer is yes, I'd suggest removing them all and cleaning them so that you can do a better visual check of the coils body insulation for cracks and also the bottom insulator boot. Cracks if any can allow a spark jump to ground. Even if cracks are found that does not necessarily mean one needs to change the whole coil but can replace the insulators/boot. While checking the coils via resistance check and comparing to the specs can be performed, a more accurate check would require a setup that includes high voltage, specified coil load device, rpm simulator, coil driver etc.
Personally, I'd clean them good and check for cracks.

 

Look at a few of these to help you understand.
https://video.search.yahoo.com/sear...k+coil+over+plug+ignition+coil&fr=tightropetb

https://search.yahoo.com/search;_yl...top&fr=tightropetb&type=Y61_F13_188043_122519

 

UPDATE: this may be premature, truck seems to like iridium plugs. Old ones seem to be burning evenly considering the previous post and pics. Boots and insulators are going to be replaced when they get here. They were brittle farther back I went so. I rolled 1 between fingers and made it crack. Nbd. Easy enough to replace. Applied dielectric grease for now. Here are pics of plugs etc. Will update on CEL or lack of and everything else when I swap rubber. Thanks for input!

 

More pics..

 

Just because you have a knock sensor code, doesn't mean it's the knock sensor. Sounds like you got water in the plug from washing engine down. Is there a rat's nest under the intake?

 

I don't that I can see. Gonna use my boriscope and look in there a little closer at wires just to confirm. I'm leaning towards water at this point. Live and learn I guess. If it doesn't come back then sweet. Most of the reason for sharing is to help and learn in the process. Thanks

 

I’ve switched to using a feather duster every few days inside the engine bay.

 

Pics or it didn't happen

 

Look through the gaps in your intake to see in the valley. You can see the knock sensors in there. If that code comes back it might be time to pull the intake.

 

Not that it's part of your problem but in the last picture that you posted your a/c condenser, oil cooler and probably your radiator fins are pretty dirty. A good hosing out and cleaning will keep them working more efficiently. I do it twice a year. End of winter and end of summer as routine maintenance.

 

Yeah. In addition to your recco, I spray Silicone with Telfon on all metal Coils/Fins after clean and dry process. Keeps schmeg from building up and makes for easier future cleaning.

 

Try bending these coils back to proper positioning, as well. May not seem like much, but those coils blockages make a bad impact. Take your time and use a small wooded shim or dull screw driver. Looks like you almost have half surface area blockage.

 

Recco?

 

PB Blaster. Around $7-8 can available at most auto stores. Douse your seat belts with it, too. Once it dries the snap back is amazing.

 

I have Blaster.
So you spray the radiator with coils with PB after spraying them off then coat it with the teflon silicone spray?

 

Buy PB Blaster with Silicone and Teflon. Clean coils. Clean seatbelt. Let dry. Spray surfaces. Really soak the seatbelt. Once it dries, then thats when the magic happens.

Be careful in the engine bay to not spray your accessory belt.

 

I believe they are 2 different companies, Blaster, and PB Blaster. PB blaster is awesome stuff.

 

Never knew this. Thanks for the heads up.

 

I know this because I had a can of Blaster "Nut Buster" nothing to do with PB blaster.