Custom rear axle

The 2500's that came with a D60 are going to in the trucks that have the small gas V8 engine, so that should help in the search. The only problem with any 2nd gen Dodge (D60, 70, or 80) is that the rear axle is wide...like really wide. Somewhere around 71'' WMS.

 

"Hate the term over landing." You and me both brother. I used to have magazine subscriptions to both Four Wheeler and Peterson's Off Road. Once they switched all their builds and advertising over to slover landing, i wrote in and cancelled my subscription. Zero need to spend literally thousands and thousands of dollars to drive down a gravel road with 4000lbs of keepsakes in order to sleep overnight in a state park and eat a can of beans.

As for the 2000-2004 axle options at Front Range, maybe it's because they only sell one length of axle shafts, and it only fits the Access Cab width axle housing? (yes, there was a 2004 Double Cab). Or more likely it's because the 2000-2004 ABS is easier to bypass and still have an operational speedometer? https://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/full-floater-conversion/


This guy here was a one post wonder. It took a bit of searching for me to find it, but here you go. Just keep in mind that you'll loose a lot of ground clearance with a D60. Probably close to 1.5", which is like running 30.5" tires instead of 33".
https://www.tundras.com/threads/bas...tbed-baja-expedition-rig.135407/#post-3430586

 

My Dana’s were 440-6’s

 

Oh yea I saw that basils garage post and then he went silent. Huge intro then . I've thought about the loss of clearance but my intention was to eventually run 35's once I saved up for a mid or long travel kit. So I could clear better. I know basil did the factory length solo Motorsports and moving the ball joint forward one inch helped him clear 35s but I feel like he has no flexibility. I generally require a fair amount of flex. On front ranges page they have the Diamond Axle housings that look like they would offer more clearance than a Dana 60 but I'm not sure. It's not as much about worried about breaking an axle solely as it is the whole picture of me needing disc brakes and would enjoy having a full floater. Once I put the AG HD leafs on then itll help me be able to situate the load on the trailers better when I regularly haul 10-14k with load and trailer and all. If I can get a little bit more tongue weight on the truck then I feel like I would have better control when stopping. Right now I Rely way too much on the trailer because I can barely put any tongue weight on it even with my aals. If I could find the stuff to convert my rear end to full float as well as disc brake then I would do that option in a heartbeat. I'm going to be rebuilding the third member completely anyways with new gears and a locker. If you know of any better option to make my rear a full float with disc brake other than having an axle built then that would be most likely my go-to option. The only drawback I have actually had on a Dana 60 was the loss of clearance that I knew I would lose from the diff.

 

And yea it kills me how fake a lot of these overlanders are. I mean I don't get out there and smash and break everything but me and the wife and kids try to take a 8-10k mile road trip once a year for a couple weeks and a fair amount of off roading gets put in. We camp out wherever we can make it to just to save money because I hate blowing 150-200$ a night minimum on hotels. Absolutely kills me to pay that to take a shower and sleep for what usually equates to 5 hrs of sleep because we check in so late into the night. We go down the least traveled road possible because I haven't seen everything in this country but I've seen a lot and I don't want to see what most people see. I like to see what most will never. Carrying 5 people for 2 weeks requires a ton of gear and add all the tools and backup stuff I carry in case I break something adds up. My bed vault alone weight close to 300 lbs. That sucker is a chunk. We were crossing the Imogene pass last winter in the snow when people told us it wasn't necessarily a good idea and all the jeep pavement princesses were turning around less than half way through because the snow was getting too sketchy and deep for them to risk it on those last few steep pulls but we went for it and made it all the way across and I had a couple other 4 runners followed me and said they were gonna turn around until they saw me go for it then decided to stay in my tracks. I didn't even know they were behind me until I got to the top. I was so white knuckled I never looked behind lol. What made me roll my eyes were the big money "overlanders" that I passed going up and over that we're maxed out with all their garb which could be useful if they had the balls to put the nose of the truck in a place that would require them to actually use the equipment. Later that week we would go to Moab and wear that place out for a little while but there was way too much to see in a week. I plan to go back next year and finish it off with a white rim trail trip. My main goal in all this is to go do it, have everything I need to do everything I want and not get stuck out there because it could take hours or days to get someone to get me out and have fun and not look like "those people"

 

Now 2900 for a custom rear sounds nice. My thing is if I'm going to the trouble of converting my OE axle to disc brakes then why don't I just Source a sequoia axle the conversion kits are like $1600+ after you add the parking brake kit which is wild to me to spend that much when I can just be half way to a whole new better axle for that money. Now I'm not trying to spend a shit load of cash that I could put towards other things but I have basically zero rear brakes. They won't stay adjusted for nothing and everything is operating fine when I take off the drums. They haven't worked in forever and I'm tired of spending money and time trying g to get them to work. I was going to do the t100 upgrade but I'm wondering if the sequoia upgrade would be better??? Anyone know which upgrade is better for discs? I just dont want to waste time and money to get what I want and in a lot of cases a whole axle seems cheaper when you consider the effectiveness of what I'm getting and the time and headache saved by just swapping out the whole thing I stead of trying to convert. SOS estimates something like 16 hrs of work just to do the rear conversion with a parking brake. I'm confident I can easily have a whole new axle installed and driving on it in that. If I can find the rear axle out of a whole different vehicle that can make what I want would be cool too. I may just buy a blank like what you posted or what front range offers and just slowly put one together...or just buy a sequoia axle and give up full float unless someone makes a full float conversion for that. Still never got a straight forward answer from front range why my 06 can't be converted. All I know is 04 is their cut off date. I may just have to call. They're a little slow to reply and super short in their emails.

 

If I do a sequoia axle, would the t100 or Sequoia booster/MC upgrade be better? I already have a t100 MC but haven't bought a booster yet but if the sequoia one is better then I'll go that route.

 

I think any brand of a fabricated 9” housing will have more ground clearance that a standard housing. Don’t rule out Ruffstuff or Trail Gear’s axle housings.

Disc brakes don’t automatically mean better braking than drum brakes! There’s been multiple instances here on this forum about disc brake conversions that were less than stellar. Parking brakes and disc brakes always seem to be a crap shoot on how well they work.

If you still want to try out discs, you can search out a Sequoia axle at a U Pull it yard. Grab the Sequoia’s brake master cylinder at the same time. It will probably cost around a couple hundred bucks for the axle. I don’t know the width of them though. Torch off all the linkage brackets and weld in the spring perches. The sequoia also comes with a high clearance rear swaybar, so that’s a bonus if you’re after one.

I’ve done 4 different rear disc brake conversions on my various jeeps. The only one that works really well is the Wilwood brand (but no E brake). And the only reason i swapped to discs is because of mud and water are easier to clean out of them.

 

Well at the moment I'm pretty sure I have precisely 0% rear brakes. Been that way a while. Idk when went wrong with them. I've adjusted the crap out of them. The lspv is gonna either get deleted or something when I get home from vacation. The truck is on blocks at home awaiting my arrive to install the new steering g rack toyota sent me. I was supposed to have brought my truck but toyota sent me the wrong rack and I didn't figure it out until 2 am as I was crawling under the truck with the new one and something didn't look right . I'm thinking I'll wind up searching out a Sequoia rear and try going that route and figure it out if/when I find a fabricated rear that can give me all I want at a price I'm ok with. Ive gotten mixed answers though on the sequoia MC also. I have a t100 MC...is the sequoia better? If so why do people only ever talk about doing the t100 upgrade? I don't have a BB yet though. Do I need to get a sequoia BB or a t100 BB?

 

I don’t know the difference between the T100 and the Sequoia MC. In my mind, i think it would be best to match ALL the brake components (disc calipers, MC, BB) off of the same vehicle…at least that’s what my intuition is telling me.

This is my tundra chocked full of wet doug fir. I don’t know how many tons it is, but the axle was squishing down the bumpstops when the bed was less than half full. I then proceeded more than double the load. I then hooked up my 8’ trailer to the tundra. There was LOTS of tongue weight on the hitch. With no trailer brake the truck still seemed to stop well enough. And that’s with the front tires almost wanting to come off the ground.

 

Yea you would think...but hopefully someone who knows more than me has experimented or knows the answer to that question. I just want whatever and clamp down on the rotor the most. I'm looking at ruffstuffs website and I don't know which housing would fit my needs the best. The Ford 9, LC 9.5, or tundra 10.5 . The also make FF inserts for most of their axles. All their axles look like they have decently high clearance.

 

Whoah