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CrewMax Backseat Storage Hack

Discussion in '3rd Gen Tundras (2014+)' started by moonshineheadache, Jun 30, 2018.

  1. Oct 15, 2018 at 3:45 PM
    #91
    Challenger1

    Challenger1 Gramping

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    How much for the frame?
     
  2. Oct 15, 2018 at 4:09 PM
    #92
    Mtbrider541

    Mtbrider541 New Member

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    Front and rear bumpers, ICON stage 1, Zone UCA's, Custom made airbag mounts with firestone bags, Body mount chop, ICON progressive rear leaf pack 1 inch lift, OME greasable rear leaf shakes & bushings, 295x70x18 Toyo Open Counrty ATII, URD Maf calibrator, K&N Intake tube w/ OEM Airbox, AFE Trans Temp and AFR Guage w/ Lotek guage pod, leer 100XQ with leer locker, Mangnum RT steps, and Trail Ridge tow mirrors.
    I haven't really calculated it out yet because each frame uses such a small amount of a sheet of aluminum which is expensive. Also then shipping would be high because it would require a large box. The solution is to make a bunch of frames to reduce the cost of materials and ship them in pieces that could be welded or riveted together. The previous replies indicated the cost was kind of high, so right now I'm working on the bases only to see if I can get the cost down. CNC time for production is around $90 an hour and each of the four bases has different relief requirements for bolts rivets and spot welds.
     
    Challenger1 likes this.
  3. Oct 16, 2018 at 6:04 AM
    #93
    vader7071

    vader7071 New Member

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    Adding to this thread, here is how I did my under the seat storage mod. Did this for 2 reasons (and not quite done yet). 1st was to house my ham radio rigs, 2nd was additional storage. I was able to complete one of the storage bins last night. Here is how I did it.

    First:
    Removed the back seat and pulled back the carpet.
    20180923_081917.jpg

    Second:
    Took out the styrofoam fillers
    20180923_082038.jpg

    Third:
    Cut out the inner part of the styrofoam. I followed the little line around the outer edge. Did this in all 3 pieces. I wanted to get as much space as I could. Only hiccup, once I got near the end, the carpet pulled a little. But it isn't that big of a deal for me. Storage is more critical.
    20180923_092533.jpg

    Fourth:
    Put them back. Laid the carpet back down and put the backseat back in.
    (no image here)

    Fifth:
    Covered the area with painters tape and felt for the edge of the cutout. Traced the edges wit a straight edge and a sharpie.
    20181015_182312.jpg

    Sixth:
    Ok, here, the 45 degree lines are my cut lines, as is the center straight line. I used a razor blade and cut ONLY the 45's and the center line. The reason, I wanted to fold the carpet down to make a clean edge. Here is what I was talking about back in step 3. When I folded the carpet, it pulled out from under the seat brackets some. So not a perfect install, but once I get the carpet to crease and set, it should be ok. Like I said, storage is more important.
    20181015_182940.jpg

    Seventh:
    The bottom. I used a material called Styrene. It is a 3mm ABS plastic. You can get this from sign shops. Runs about $40 for a 4' x 8' sheet (yes, 4 foot by 8 foot). This stuff is great. Glues with PVC glue, heats and molds with a hair dryer (a heat gun gives faster results though) and cuts with a box cutter. Back to the bottom. I cut out a piece of 3mm Styrene the size of the opening minus the thickness of the carpet on both sides. I cut it a WEEEEE bit big so it would have to be "strongly placed" in the bottom.
    20181015_184001.jpg 20181015_184132.jpg

    Eighth:
    Now I shoved the Styrene into the hole pinning the carpet. I may go back and put in some screws into the floor pan to cinch it down, but for now it seems to hold well.
    20181015_203832.jpg

    This is the passenger side storage. I am still working on the driver side and center. Those will be a little more involved since that is where I am storing my ham gear. But the end result will be very similar.
    20180927_185610.jpg

    Total cost, for me, $0. I already had the Styrene. But if you had to buy the ABS, $40. If I was to start and do just this, would take about a day.
     
  4. Oct 16, 2018 at 6:52 AM
    #94
    Grandaddy

    Grandaddy New Member

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    none
    That looks really nice. and i like the price. Thanks for the idea.
     
    vader7071 likes this.
  5. Oct 16, 2018 at 7:53 AM
    #95
    saybng

    saybng Just a member.

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    Awesome job @vader7071... thank you for sharing.
     
    vader7071 likes this.
  6. Nov 26, 2018 at 2:14 PM
    #96
    Dual Rider

    Dual Rider New Member

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    Thank you everyone. I was close to buying the ESP solution and think those really look nice, however didn't really want to spend that much money and didn't think it really maximized the space, which is already so limited. Now I think I may do a hybrid of these ideas instead. I'm thinking of just cutting the foam out like vader7071, but not cutting the carpet the same way. I'm thinking of just cutting the sides and back of the carpet leaving the front attached as a sort of flap with a hinge that I can use to just cover the hole back up with the carpet providing a bit of stealth/secret storage underneath, which may be better than locked storage to begin with... I'm thinking I may put some Dynamat on the bottom to provide some insulation from the metal at least. This should also allow me to use my WeatherTech floormats to also cover it back up. I may even do the half rifle case mod on top of that for even more storage and concealment of what lies below... My only concern is that while I like the practical idea of this, I don't want it to look like a hack job either... Decisions, decisions... :)
     
    LS Powah likes this.
  7. Nov 26, 2018 at 6:15 PM
    #97
    Boerseun

    Boerseun Super White

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    In my opinion it will look like a hack job if you cut the carpet but don't finish it off with a good container or storage system. Also, you lose depth if you do it your way. The ESP adds another inch or so to the depth of the storage by having a raised lip.
    The ESP storage is the best mod of all that I have done (given that I have not done any huge suspension or wheel mods)
    If you can buy a $30k or $40k truck, you should be able to afford a ESP tray (just my humble opinion) .You can thank me later. :thumbsup:
     
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  8. Nov 26, 2018 at 7:00 PM
    #98
    Dual Rider

    Dual Rider New Member

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    Bilstein 6112 2" level in the front, black Fuel wheels, 285/70R 18 Nitto Exo Grappler tires, BakFlip Tonneau cover, N-Fab nerf steps, Undercover Swing Case, Line-X bed liner, console safe, 2018 TRD Sport grill with color matched MGM surround and hood bulge, and more...
    Thank you for the input and feedback. It's not that I can't afford the ESP (just spent over $4,500 on other mods in the last two weeks), I just have some other ideas that I think could provide more flexible options. I don't disagee with you though on the look as I'm sure the ESP would look better, but it's under the rear seat so not sure who will ever see it besides me to begin with. Which ESP option did you go with out of curiousity?
     
    dblizzo likes this.
  9. Nov 26, 2018 at 8:23 PM
    #99
    havasubud

    havasubud Owner ESP Truck Accessories Vendor

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    You're welcome and thank you!
     
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  10. Nov 27, 2018 at 3:00 AM
    #100
    Boerseun

    Boerseun Super White

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    The basic 3-tray plastic one.
     
  11. Nov 27, 2018 at 6:23 AM
    #101
    power80

    power80 New Member

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    Nice work!
     
  12. Dec 3, 2018 at 9:47 PM
    #102
    brownmike

    brownmike New Member

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    First off, props to all the guys contributing posts and ideas. These have been the best ideas yet that I've seen yet!

    After seeing the amount of space that is actually available, I have two ideas to kinda meet in the middle for most peoples needs of professional looking and useful. I figure either of these could use cabinet style "push to open" popper latches, eliminating handles and pulls.

    1. Cut the foam out as Vader did, and either build a similar frame to (or actually use) a safety deposit box like below, but cutting the carpet in a "[" shape and attaching it to the box lid via glue/velcro. This would give you the full length/width compartment (hinge far enough forward to clear seat) and with the lid down covered w stock carpet, it would be stealthy/stock looking.
    [​IMG]
    2. Same general idea as above, except using a sliding drawer that would pull out forward, similar to a truck slide box, but obviously smaller, and could still be hidden with stock carpet if done with care and some patience. This would also allow entry without having to flip the seat up for those with car seats/pets/etc. as well as a full length/width compartment
    [​IMG]

    Thoughts? Pros/Cons?
     
  13. Dec 4, 2018 at 11:50 AM
    #103
    Boerseun

    Boerseun Super White

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    Great ideas. Just keep in mind that the floor is not flat - it slopes up a little towards the back, so your depth is getting limited if you use a longer box.
    Also, for the drawer idea, there is a little bit of a lip in the front which also limits the depth of the drawer. Not much, but just something to keep in mind.
    upload_2018-12-4_14-48-29.jpg
     
  14. Dec 4, 2018 at 9:43 PM
    #104
    brownmike

    brownmike New Member

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    I see what you mean, I dont think the slope and lip would be a major factor if you hand built a insert, but could be if you were using off the shelf parts. I wish I was home to try some of this stuff out on my truck!
     
    Boerseun likes this.
  15. Dec 5, 2018 at 4:20 AM
    #105
    Fishman57

    Fishman57 New Member

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    I really like the looks and versatility of the ESP.
    My only question is: Do you get any road noise reverberating up through it due to cutting out the floor insulation? Or maybe does any extra noise get absorbed by the bottoms of the seats when they’re folded down?
     
  16. Dec 5, 2018 at 5:50 AM
    #106
    Boerseun

    Boerseun Super White

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    I don't know about the metal long box, but the regular one with the 3 plastic bins does not add any noise due to removing the insulation.
     
  17. Dec 5, 2018 at 6:06 AM
    #107
    Fishman57

    Fishman57 New Member

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    Thanks for the info Ferdie!
    I was actually thinking about the long box because it's more versatile. The thing with that is that I would't be storing anything in there that needs to be locked away. I wish they made a reduced price long box that didn't lock and maybe wasn't so heavy duty.
    I might end up making something myself in my free time....if i ever get any free time.
    Decisions, decisions.
     
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  18. Dec 7, 2018 at 6:39 PM
    #108
    Mtbrider541

    Mtbrider541 New Member

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    All, here are a set of the CNC machined seat relocation brackets. Let me know what you all think. Again lifts rear seat 1 inch and forward 2 inches giving you room underneath and behind the seats for storage without cutting anything. Completely removable to go back to factory location.

    20181207_120344.jpg
    20181207_120340.jpg
    20181207_120329.jpg
    20181207_120324.jpg
     
    dubless, jtwags, 1UPPER and 2 others like this.
  19. Dec 7, 2018 at 7:05 PM
    #109
    Mtbrider541

    Mtbrider541 New Member

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    I'm not sure once I have them painted I will post install photos and instructions
     
  20. Dec 7, 2018 at 7:05 PM
    #110
    Mtbrider541

    Mtbrider541 New Member

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    I do not have the esp
     
  21. Dec 7, 2018 at 7:07 PM
    #111
    Mtbrider541

    Mtbrider541 New Member

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    Looking at the ESP photos above these would not work
     
  22. Dec 8, 2018 at 6:06 AM
    #112
    Danny

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    Interesting
     
  23. Dec 11, 2018 at 7:05 PM
    #113
    tundracap

    tundracap New Member

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    Man I wish Toyota hadn't wasted SO much usable space in the back of the CM, particularly behind the seats by not engineering them to fold down.
     
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  24. Dec 16, 2018 at 7:39 PM
    #114
    Mtbrider541

    Mtbrider541 New Member

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    Alright friends here are the finished pics of my CNC machined seat relocation brackets. Again these raised the rear seat 1 inch and moved it forward 2 Inches.

    20181216_131703.jpg
    20181216_131708.jpg
    20181216_131715.jpg
    20181216_131718.jpg
    20181216_131720.jpg
    20181216_131727.jpg
     
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  25. Dec 16, 2018 at 7:43 PM
    #115
    aw113sgte

    aw113sgte New Member

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    I was looking at my truck, how much does the 2x1 inches help? Didn't seem like I'd be able to access the area behind the seat unless I got about 4+" movement?
     
  26. Dec 16, 2018 at 7:53 PM
    #116
    Mtbrider541

    Mtbrider541 New Member

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    Front and rear bumpers, ICON stage 1, Zone UCA's, Custom made airbag mounts with firestone bags, Body mount chop, ICON progressive rear leaf pack 1 inch lift, OME greasable rear leaf shakes & bushings, 295x70x18 Toyo Open Counrty ATII, URD Maf calibrator, K&N Intake tube w/ OEM Airbox, AFE Trans Temp and AFR Guage w/ Lotek guage pod, leer 100XQ with leer locker, Mangnum RT steps, and Trail Ridge tow mirrors.
    It helped quite a bit, I will upload some more pics of the space now available. I used the space behind the center seat for a 10inch sub enclosure. I am able to reach my whole arm behind the seat. I also built the frame which is 3 inches tall and keeps things secured under the seat.

    20181002_081740.jpg
    20180928_161736.jpg
    20181006_071750.jpg
     
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  27. Dec 17, 2018 at 8:15 AM
    #117
    Countryslicker

    Countryslicker New Member

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    OME 3” lift. 35” tires. ARE shell w full expedition kit. Slee sliders
    I’m frustrated that the back portion of the seat does not fold down. There is so much usable space back there that I can’t use!
    I believe that the 2nd gens did have fold-down seats.
    Has anyone swapped the hinge from a 2nd gen to 3rd gen seats?
    Or have a different solution?

    Tia
     
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  28. Dec 17, 2018 at 9:32 AM
    #118
    tundracap

    tundracap New Member

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    Total waste of space and usability of the cab of the truck.
     
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  29. Dec 18, 2018 at 9:36 PM
    #119
    tundracrazy

    tundracrazy New Member

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    Nice job. I love the factory DC under seat storage on the Limited's. I used some plastic tubs on top of the carpet years ago that worked.
     
  30. Dec 18, 2018 at 9:41 PM
    #120
    Mtbrider541

    Mtbrider541 New Member

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    Front and rear bumpers, ICON stage 1, Zone UCA's, Custom made airbag mounts with firestone bags, Body mount chop, ICON progressive rear leaf pack 1 inch lift, OME greasable rear leaf shakes & bushings, 295x70x18 Toyo Open Counrty ATII, URD Maf calibrator, K&N Intake tube w/ OEM Airbox, AFE Trans Temp and AFR Guage w/ Lotek guage pod, leer 100XQ with leer locker, Mangnum RT steps, and Trail Ridge tow mirrors.
    All after some figuring and cost estimating I have found a local CNC machine shop that can produce my solid 6061 aluminum crewmax rear seat relocation brackets. The cost would be $300.00 including shipping to lower 48, assuming there are no hiccups with flat rate postage boxes. Let me know I would need to produce atleast ten sets to get this price.

    20181207_120324.jpg
    20181207_120340.jpg
    20181216_131703.jpg
    20181216_131727.jpg
    20181006_071938.jpg
    20181006_071812.jpg
     
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