Crank at TDC but cams are at "T"

Hey all, I'm doing the timing belt on my 2006 Sequoia, and my timing marks aren't lining up. When I put the crank pulley at 0°, my cam pulleys are both at the T indicator.

If I understand the various threads and videos I've read and watched, I need to continue taking things apart and then reset these to the correct marks with the belt off.

My question is: should I leave the crank at TDC, or move it to the timing mark (putting the cams well past their timing marks) before continuing?

Thanks!

 

Not sure how you got here? Are you saying you put it back together without the cams and crank in time?

How to videos link from the MEGA Thread:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/timing-belt-on-05-tundra-4-7-2uz-fe.113004/#post-2913731

 

No, I haven't taken the belt off yet. This is how it was when I got in here.

Watching that first video it seems like I should leave the cams at ATDC, pull the crank pulley and take the belt off? Making sure the belts marks line up everywhere when putting it on?

 

Truck was running good when before you started the belt swap?

 

I had P0011, P0016, P0018 and P0021 codes but it seemed to be doing fine otherwise.

 

So the timing was off before you started as indicated by those codes. Possibly jumped time due to an old worn belt, or a bad tensioner. Seems it would have jumped at the crank as the cams are both in time with each other. Or, to be honest, that belts looks to be in amazing shape, perhaps the timing belt was installed improperly the last time it was done. How long have you owned the tree? Any more to this story?

 

There's a sticker saying the belt was done at just past 260000 miles and I'm at 285000 now. I'm guessing it wasn't installed right.

I bought it in October of 2023 and since I'm going to be moving cross country soon, I wanted to get any issues sorted out before I leave. Drain and fills on the trans, and diffs, oil change, fixing the timing codes, etc. Hopefully avoiding any issues while I'm on the road.

 

Have the codes been there since you bought it?

 

Yeah, they have. I kept meaning to get to it, but just haven't had the time till now. I think I bought it at 275k.

 

Then I'm going with improperly installed at the last change. The persistent codes are likely why they ended up selling? Hope you got a good deal, and hope with the newly, and properly installed timing belt, you get a smooth running 4.7 for many years to come.

 

I plan to keep it running for as long as possible. Thanks for your help!

 

Quick update for anyone in the future who may find this post while researching a similar issue:

As stated above I left my cam pulleys pointing at their "T" marks, and finished taking off all the covers. I then took off the old belt and advanced just the crank pulley to its timing mark. I changed the water pump while I was in there, then buttoned everything back up.

All of my timing codes were gone when I started it back up. My Sequoia was also much quieter and felt smoother as well. I had a Nissan Versa before I got my tree, so I didn't have much to compare it to, but it sounds and feels much healthier now.