Crackhead resurrection

congrat's!

 

Shiiiiiit, maybe... I don't know yet. Gotta see how the rest of this year pans out my dude!!!

I've got research to do, and lots of it...

There's wires taped up on the tongue, and an additional LED set of tail lights wired into the factory set. Best of my research yields a 7 round plug was factory. Wire nuts, crimps, and zip ties underneath all point to modifications by one of the three previous.

I have no idea how insurance works on it yet. I need to call state farm, and inquire. I may omit the fact that the brakes don't work yet to see what they can do.

 

Well... shit.

Thanks @NUDRAT one step closer to freedom!

 

Got it home late Saturday night. Just pulled straight into the driveway, and parked. Sunday morning we swung it around, and put the camper in its temporary spot while we are still at the parents place.

Crackie will move anything in 4LO at idle. Just pulled up into the neighbors yard in the wet morning grass made a large loop, and pulled straight back down into the driveway, and creeped it back to where she sits now.



Gonna be re-sealing the roof, recaulking everything, re-sealing everything, and replacing all the shrouds on the roof.



New shrouds, and vent covers will be here tomorrow. Any advice for doing a roof is welcome. I'm a newbie...

 

The dinette has been removed from our, and replaced with a light weight table set. A few differences between the 86 model and the 88 model. This is basically what it looks like inside.
https://youtu.be/w1FzGHvC_gE

 

As for roof, would be surprised if onesjouner didn’t have some input. Search his history here or post at TS, he’s under different name

 

Eternabond tape is your friend. It's not the cheapest way to do it, but it's practically one and done when properly applied.

$70 EternaBond RV Mobile Home Roof Seal Sealant Tape & Leak Repair Tape 4" x 50' Roll White Authentic (4''-50ft)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F9659ZT

 

I'm going to guess that a 1/4 cup of liquid bleach diluted into a gallon of water with a healthy squirt of dish soap added will go a long ass way to getting the mildew off the roof. Apply the solution to the roof and hit it with a deck brush after it soaks for a couple minutes. You'll want to clear that up before you caulk or seal anything.

 

I left a post over on TS for him. I wish he'd come back here, but I understand...

Thanks for the recco. I'll look into it. Dad has a gallon of some sort of rubber coating he bought a few years ago for the other camper.

My main question is... do I replace the vents/shrouds before or after the new rubberized membrane?

 

Some of the covers may be screwed into the roof. If so, you need to remove the old sealer, unscrew and remove the old cover, scrape and clean to install the new cover, then apply the eternabond tape. The rubber roof coating stuff is hit or miss and has to be frequently inspected, patched and repaired. Eternabond, when properly applied, is a semi-permanent solution. Find one of those crusty looking RV parts sellers, not f@cking campingworld, and check out there used and scratch and dent items. Good place to score low cost goody bits for the camper. You can spend a fortune on the dumbest things for campers.

 

While on the leak prevention mode, every window, door and opening on the camper needs to be cleaned and re-sealed with caulking to prevent the worst kind of leak. The invisible one. Really anything screwed to the side of the camper, lights and fittings included. I had a 6 year old camper get floor rot in front of the door due to the door seal leaking. turned into a big repair project.

 

We planned on going through the whole thing resealing everything. All lights. Every seam. Every thing we can find, or poke with our caulk.

While on the subject of caulk... @onesojouner said on TS that if we were to use silicone that it would hold for a while, but nothing else would ever stick to it. Here's a direct copy paste from him: "The # rule is do not use any silicone based products on it. It will work for a while but then when you need to reseal nothing will stick to it. Nothing will get it off. Leaks and UV are what kill these things."

Here's what we ordered yesterday before we knew about the silicone thing... Below is the product info.

$60 12‐Pack of 10.1 oz Dap 18300 White Dynaflex 230 Premium Window, Door, and Trim Sealant

12 Pack Dap 18300 DYNAFLEX 230 Premium Indoor/Outdoor Sealant - White 10.1-oz Cartridge (18275)





Any and all advice is appreciated, and welcomed. Move forward with this stuff, and commit or find a different product. Thoughts?

 

@onesojourner himself recommended Dicor products.
https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-501LSW...&qid=1661192527&sprefix=dicor+,aps,331&sr=8-7

 

Dynaflex is great for things that don't move. It's great for sealing doors, windows, etc. on stationary homes. I wouldn't use it on anything that flexes a lot, like a mobile home.

 

Well... what do you reccomended? I didn't know that about dynaflex...

 

I got some stuff from the RV place to repair the roof and seal some windows. The stuff for the roof was the self-leveling caulk. The stuff for the windows looks like regular caulk, but it’s stringy like mozzarella cheese when you try to smooth it. Have to apply it better than I normally do the bathroom stuff. And wear gloves.

 

Never used it on a RV but this stuff works very well but it's pricey. We needed it because it was drinking water safe, clearly not a concern for your application though.

$18 Sika Sikaflex-291 LOT - General All-Purpose Adhesive and sealant, Black - Marine Use - Elastic and Non-Corrosive - 10.1 fl. oz.

https://www.amazon.com/Sika-Sikaflex-Adhesive-Sealant-Cartridge/dp/B00C50GIQI

For your use I'd probably lean towards polyurethane.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite...dow-Door-and-Siding-Sealant-1675293/203163736

 

I'm a Sika guy. Don't get me wrong, I use Dynaflex and other DAP products all over the house, especially their flexible trim sealer, it's killer. But when it comes to self-leveling sealers, masonry sealers, etc. I'm using Sika. But full dislosure, I've never used any Sika products on moving-walled things, like boats, trailers, etc. I just know from experience you don't want to use big-box-store flexible sealers on anything that sees regular flex and torsion.

That said, Sika has an interactive page for mobile homes specifically, which links you up with products. Be forewarned, some of their shit is expensive.

https://industry.sika.com/en/home/transportation/caravan-and-motorhomes.html

EDIT: I see Fester also posted Sika at the same time as me. Jinx!!

 

Here’s the roof stuff I used

 

compare with Progressive.
You probably want to research towing insurance.
No one will tow truck & trailer. Towing the truck could be covered, but the trailer will be separate & on your dime. Lots to learn.

 

return it. Absolutely correct, no silicone on anything RV. Well, maybe sink to counter - but that's it.

 

Dicor good.

 

e-trailer has often been a good source for me.

Obviously repack wheel bearings.

You can't send the woman to the trailer to make dinner while you're driving. ;-)

 

Don't cover the trailer with a plastic tarp for the winter - traps moisture, becomes a sweatbox, wood rots....
Real proper RV cover or no cover.

Learn how to winterize the water system.
Double check the water heater when winterizing.

YouTube is your friend.

prop fridge, freezer, bathroom doors open for winter.

NO food, no 'mouse' food left in over the winter. They will come. Make it uninviting.

Check it at least 1x/week (okay reality is 1x/month) over the winter. Look for leaks, mice, vagrants.

Some people say leave a radio turned on in it all winter. I dunno. Doubt mice are scared of a radio.

Hah! You need a mouse jiggler for the RV. Someone invent that!

 

Ran the numbers on it, looks like that's this: https://www.explosivepowersports.co...alant-10-3-oz-white-13-1316-502lsw-1-38-9018/

Product number is 38-9018, and it looks like it's probably "502LSW" under the bar code sticker.

 

Looks to be right. This stuff is for the roof only as it stays liquidy for a while and flattens out to fill like floor leveler. No good on the sides as it doesn’t firm up and adhere in time. I used this on my last camper and used it to patch a bad factory seal on one of the vents on my current camper. When the time comes to freshen the seals up, I’m going all eternabond.

 

Page 69 for ol crack-thread
Noah I found an ad on craylist, dude got rid of a trailer and had this kit he was giving away. Ive emailed the asshole 4 times over the last 2 days and still no response from him. The ad was only posted 2 days ago and is still up. Anyways, I'm tryin to hook you up, if he gets back to me, I'll grab it and you cover shipping. It's still in the box and includes the sway kit. Why would someone post some shit and not respond? I don't get that

 

Had that same setup on my first camper. Worked pretty good. And at free.99 the price is right. The trailer part installs easy, just lay it on the rail and tighten the set bolt. The setup for the truck mounted hitch part is a little time consuming, but once it’s dialed in you’re good to go.