Crackhead resurrection

Notice any other issues during your trip?

 

No, just that one issue. And road noise from the Mud terrain tires. Steering shaft seal is gone. I can see into the cab. May see what toyota will charge to pop in a new one.

 

That's great!

 

4WD light is still blinking, but that's a can of worms to be opened at a later date. Tried to pop it in while in motion in the yard. Still just blinked at me with no beeps. I know the button is working because it does a "Long blink" after I press it. Guess it's doing a self check, and then activates the engagement process which doesn't work. Probably because of that burnt up connector I posted a bazillion pages back.

Immediate need activities are: Drain the engine water now that I have 200~ish miles on it, and put coolant in it now that it's getting colder. Don't want it to freeze in there, and blow all my hard work straight to hell.

 

I think you're being smart by waiting until after the swap to address any other issues and getting coolant in there is a good idea as well. I wonder if your wonky trans readings have anything to do with H2O in the system rather than coolant?

 

I'd rather be ready than try to cram everything in with an unknown due date. I've got it back on the road, it's not an Ideal set up right now, but still on the road. I know the TB/WP are good. No risk there except that one nut I couldn't find a home for...

Water in the ATF?? I hope not, but I can't explain the temp decreasing with more speed. Never heard of that one. My V6 has the A340E, the 2WD version of the A340F. I know that it increases heat with speed some, never seen it decrease like I did in this truck. I'm curious if I swapped a line from when I changed them. Like I have one going from the cooler directly to the transmission instead of through the warmer at the bottom of the Radiator. Unsure, and will need to investigate.

Just need more time to crawl around under it to get more tetanus in my eye.

 

With the way it flashes even when the button is popped out (2wd) it seems like it thinks something is still stuck in 4wd mode.
That wiring definitely seems like a good place to start when you get there.
I can't remember if you have but have you checked to see if the front driveshaft spins freely?

 

No, I meant because the trans cooling route flows through the radiator which you have water in. It"s highly doubtful it's the cause of the wonky readings but it would be an interesting anomaly if it was due to it.

 

No, I haven't checked this. Haven't greased the driveshaft either. Is is supposed to spin free? Are we talking about the CVJ axles, or the shaft from the transmission to the diff?

Gotcha. I doubt it also. 188-195°F fluid is still 188-195°F fluid regardless of what it's composed of. Will just have to see how it does once I have some coolant in it.

I know I won't be driving it much until I have the fuel system fixed. 115 miles to half a tank hurts so bad! But the V8 power!

 

Yep, mo' powa! Can't beat it. Remember also that the lack of proper O2 sensors or a way to compensate for them is likely throwing the AFR off and thereby affecting fuel economy somewhat too.

 

Shaft from transfer case to front diff. Should spin free from what I remember. When in 2wd the ADD disconnects and the driveshaft disengages.

 

Yep. This is right.

 

Most likely. It's not throwing any 02 sensor codes. PHM reported the same thing with his which had borsch IIRC. Wasn't denso. Some off brand units. Easiest repair for me will probably be foulers like I used on the V6.

So I need to be in neutral for this, or can the truck just be off in park? What's the setup for this?

 

Plan for today is to drain block water, and put back in coolant. 43°F here at clock out. It was 70°F at clock out last Thursday? Almost like mother nature seen Smokey Bear. Won't be doing a flush. Just a drain and fill.

 

Can do in park. Front driveshaft should just spin freely. If your CV's spin freely then your gonna have bigger problems.

 

Park with the truck off yields no spinnies. So I guess I'm stuck in 4WD till I got it sorted.

 

Seems maybe just the A.D.D. is locked in but transfer case isn't. I'm sure you'd be able to tell from turning if it really was stuck in 4wd fully.

 

I'm not sure how it's supposed to feel turning in 4WD. I assume it's supposed to feel like my V6 when turning in 2WD if it were in 2WD. Which it doesn't.

 

Steering in 4wd is heavier, and feels like the e-brake is on. My dog bumped mine into 4wd while leaving a parking spot and i was convinced my front brakes were dragging again.

felt like a goof when i saw the 4hi button lit up. Cause it was right after doing the MC.

 

Drained it. This is what I got out. Roughly 200 miles on this water.


Pumped her full of Zerex coolant. Burped it. Went for a short drive up to the chapel. Pretty sure I'm stuck in 4WD. My idle is around 1,700 RPM now?


Guess since I just hooked up this battery that I need to let it re-learn.

 

Went for a short half hour drive. Watching live data sporadically. Never went into closed loop until I put it in Overdrive, and then finally went into closed loop fuel system. Topped off the fuel tank with another $63.

About 9 or so minutes into my live data video at the bottom of this post.

Idled down to acceptable 800-1000 RPM. Everything was feeling normal. Started cruising home, and then popped back into Open loop fault about 25 minutes into the video.. Pulled off the road, and turned it off for a second. Fired it right back up, and popped back into closed loop. Idled back down to proper range.

@Desert Dog. I guess water doesn't transfer thermal energy the same way that anti-freeze does. Trans temps were anywhere from 130 to 160.

https://youtu.be/x_v-Yd4abqw

 

I know but it was one of those things you had to find out for yourself. Lol.

I firmly believe that until you get the exhaust squared away with proper O2 sensors the open-loop/closed loop gremlin is going to haunt you; they have a lot to do with their functions. In very crude terms the ECM is struggling to manage a function at all times that it wasn't intended to. I could be incorrect but I'm pretty certain the O2 sensors (or a suitable substitute) are the root cause of the problem.

 

Thanks for letting me figure this out in my head, and my own way. Now that I've done it, it's in my head now. If you had just come out, and told me I'd probably forget...

I'll do some part research for densos, and some foulers tonight.

 

Denso's are ideal but I've never had an issue with genuine NGK/NTK either. You may find them at a better price, idk.

 

Was left a Voicemail this AM that the frame is at the dealership, and I'm supposed to call back to set up an appointment. I will call when I'm a little more awake.

 

Slip the guy a $20 and see if he’ll upgrade to one of those craftsman truck series chassis’s.

 

Aluminum

 

ask what they charge to give it a grease rub before install.

 

Dropping the truck off this Friday with mom as pick up person. Will be asking about pricing for them to diagnose the 4WD, and fuel system closed/open loop errors.

New parts to be installed then:

1. Stainless steel brake lines. Wheelers flavor.
2. New body mounts. OEM flavor.
3. New engine/transmission mounts. OEM flavor.
4. New frame plus kit. OEM flavor.
5. New carrier bearing. Spicer flavor.
6. New steering rack bushings. Energy suspension flavor. Chewy!

New frame scheduled to be installed next week.

 

They do give you a rental car. Didn't cost me a cent. They'll drive you to the place up the road to pick it up and drop it off. Could save you all on some gas. Take a few pics of stuff under the truck for your reference should anything get screwed up. I just found out this weekend that I'm missing 2 of my 4 front bump stops and I still need to get my brake line clip sorted out.