Crackhead resurrection

Oil level looks good. ATF is a bit high. Will drain off some before heading to work.


Not quite sure how that one happened.

 

Pull into a diy carwash, use a spray bottle to degrease everything underneath, wait 10 min or so, then clean off all the old grease, being careful near electrical connections, and hit the zerks with a couple pumps. Check the fluids 20-50 miles later, and look for milque, and look underneath for fresh oily bits.

 

Tomorrow as I'm out if time today. Great idea though! ATF at 160° with slight drain, and fill to proper level.

 

Top it off before the cleaning. Keep it topped off while hunting.

 

https://youtu.be/FxvWQQHZBLM

@FrenchToasty said he needed help with ew-tube?

 

And here I was celebrating. Just filled up with 87 octane marathon go-juice.


Too lean is new. Live data shows the coolant temp at 190°-195°. Not sure what's next.

 

Have you disconnected the battery since replacing the coolant temp sensor wiring? Give everything a fresh start.

 

Yes, and I've cleared these codes three different times with my scanner so I know it's not bull shitting me. Lol

 

I suppose it could be an exhaust leak around the front oxygen sensors which is making the computer think it needs less fuel

 

Did you burp the water system? Getting all the bubbles out usually mean getting the truck to a certain angle.

pump them hoses under flow to catch and drag the bubbles.

Temp test the t-stat? Should have a temp it opens at.

 

I burped it, but I didn't test the T-stat. I didn't see the point in testing new equipment. I know how it acts with no T-stat. It won't come up to temp. It came up to temp with the T-stat installed, and is holding steady in the 190-195 range.

 

Yeah, I'm not sure what's next other than replacing both the sensors on the water inlet. One of them goes to the dash, and the other one goes to the ECU.

 

Wasn't supposed to rain today, and didn't till I was halfway to work. Oops.

 

Any thoughts on this @bmf4069 @BubbaW @empty_lord

Could it be because I bolted up the exhaust manifold to the exhaust system? This truck has no cats currently. Basically straight piped except it still has the Toyota muffler.

 

Low temp code could be left over from when flushing with the engine running. Lean code could be from before hooking the manifolds back up.

Clear them and see what comes back.

 

@Tundra2, the easiest way to determine which component(s) are at fault here for the P0125 code is to measure the voltage across the coolant temp sensor as the motor comes up to temp. Unsure of the factory specs but if you check the sensor voltage and it is within spec then basic logic says it is exhaust related, probably front O2 sensor. Check the voltage and go from there.

 

Hmmm...check those new coolant bypass hoses to the throttle body. There's a definite in and out flow, maybe they are reversed? Or kinked?

 

Definitely not reversed. One hose is like 1/4" and the other hose on top is closer to 1/2". Be hard to reverse that.

That bypass hose you linked from RA might be kinked, but it connects to the brass fitting on the bottom of the throttle body. That brass fitting is like a miniatures thermostat with a temp call out of 83°C. Not 100% sure if it opened or not.

 

Just a thought. There are in fact 4 hoses in/out of the TB...

 

I don't have the U-hose circled in the middle of that diagram. I only have two. One on top that connect to the y-pipe that goes down to the oil cooler, and the little hose from the water inlet to the bottom of the TB where the brass T-stat is.

Am I missing something or are the earlier trucks different?

 

That's no good. Did you recently get a lot of water inside the cab? It doesn't seem like it should be possible for that much mold to grow unless it was previously infested OR there's some other reason it's holding a significant amount of water in the cab.

Some wisdom I would share regarding mold, this is a rodeo I've fought and lost several times.

Mold cannot grow without two things in abundant source: Food and moisture. It typically takes humidity greater than 55% to supply enough airborne water for mold to grow. Food can literally be anything organic, from sloughed off skin to misc dirt.

You need to understand clearly - especially the stuff black dotted mold on the center console and rubbers - if not treated immediately with a serous killing agent like bleach water (1 cup bleach to 1 gal water shaken), mold will establish roots, it will leave stains, you will never get rid of it, it will keep coming back.

If I were you, I'd get that carpet the feck outta there ASAP. Check the underlay for signs of previous water staining. If you have a carwash nearby, buy a single run through it to simulate a monsoon. Check the floorboard for leaks after, repair (see leak sticky thread). I suspect you'll find one or two, likely cowl and rear of cab.

While you have the carpet out, good time to sound deaden floor. Check the Noico 150mil stuff, 36sf ~$55 on Ammerzon. Be sure to get a roller tool that uses bearings. Despite popular opinion, you DO NOT need to seamlessly cover the floor, randomly placed 8x8 squares does wonders. You may want to slap a couple extra on the rear cab wall too.

If you have a wooden deck or patio and a good deck brush, Simple Green the shit out of the carpet while out and brush in circles to froth it up. Pressure wash it out after. Then spray with a more-highly diluted gallon of bleach water (2 TBSP bleach 1 gal water).

Seat belts are the hardest thing to get mold spots out of once rooted, and can be a recurring source. Tons of food in seatbelt fabric - all that dead skin rubbed in - pressure washer is about the only way to make it happen.

I'm not sure if ozone machines help in this area.

 

Watching the live data shows a problem.

https://youtu.be/_jfAW9ZvsYw

Once the ATF temp hits 122°F it popped the open loop fault. Has nothing to do with coolant temp as it was Rock steady as shown above in the video.

So, what to do now? Check temp sensor wiring on transmission? It's 45°F here. Live data is currently showing ranges of 116°F (with o/d engaged) to 135°F being the highest I've seen pulling hills in 4th gear.

 

@Tundra2, you're right, that code is just a generic code and had very little probability of having anything to do with the cooling system considering all the effort you have put into it. That's why I said just check the voltage sweep as it came up to temp.

Anyway, that code and the open/closed loop issue probably don't have anything to do with the trans either. Again, it's a genetic code, it's almost always due to faulty/failed O2 sensors. I would focus on getting the exhaust system back up to snuff and sealed before putting any effort into anything other area. Didn't you say the exhaust is boogered-up? It's the most likely culprit here. Be sure and use Denso or NGK/NTK brand O2 sensors.

 

I did say that the exhaust was boogered. Crack head farms cut the catalytic converters off, and welded back in straight pipes with what appears to be stick weld.

They did weld in bungs for the Oxygen sensors. I guess I need to crawl back under there for investigation purposes. Now, I firmly believe I need a whole new exhaust system on this truck. Most of the Hangers are rusted off.

Now, I find it strange that I was able to repeat the 122°F ATF code pop several times kn the way home tonight. I would stop, and pull the battery cable every 10 minutes to reset the computer. Each time the ATF hit 122 it would pop the code again. I find that very, very strange that it popped each time at that temperature.

Didn't matter what kind of driving conditions.



Never heard of ATF hitting 107° while cruising either...

Maybe I'm getting hung up on something that has nothing to do with each other. Causation not correlation or something like that?

 

Not sure anyone is going to watch this or not. But here's a longer live data video where I play around with different O/D on/off and driving styles to see what the ATF temp does.
https://youtu.be/75upAnJi2VI

Synopsis: I didn't go WOT, but I did push it pretty hard. While running 80MPH+ ATF was 111.2°F which doesn't make any sense to me, but maybe I'm missing a piece of the understanding puzzle.

Once I let off the throttle the temp started coming back up.

 

Swapped the battery from crackie to the V6 for a day trip to Owensboro.

 

Can you compare actual pan temp with a infrared temp gun vs sensor read out?

 

Good call. Like I always say, verify.

 

You need to tear into something else...you were keeping us all entertained but not so much now...there must be something else that's needs fixin....

 

Plenty that needs fixing, but am maintaining holding pattern until after the frame swap. Don't want to have the 4WD bits torn a part and spread everywhere when they call and say "Hey, we're waiting on you now!"

For now, I'm focusing on the P0125 code for the closed loop fuel system. I'll be verifying with the method below, and the FSM to see of the temp sensor is any good. Temp sensor appears to be externally mounted versus internally mounted. Something I can test on my own.