Crackhead resurrection

Paint that coffee maker red and black, slap a snap-on sticker on it, and call it a coolant inspection station or something. you could probably get a couple hundred bucks for it after youre done.

 

That's not a bad idea!

 

Blown straight out of the heater core. I have much more flushing to do.


Added liqui-moli rad cleaner directly to the heater core.

 

Is it rust or mud? Like does it smear or stay gritty?

 

Some stays gritty. Some smears. Good mixture of both.

 

At some point, I'll need to pull the oil cooler, and the throttle body to check for packing of bull shit

 

I think phosphoric acid is what makes coca cola clean metals.

 

That's the right bottle too. It's probably so diluted that they can advertise that it has "no" acids.

 

Pulled the oil cooler, and investigated. Wasn't packed full, but definitely had a blockage that I cleared.

Inlet below had small amounts of rust flakes.


Outlet had some sort of fabric, and seals blocking it. Wasn't able to get all of this out, but did get most of it. Kinda bummed on it as this is the newer one.


I hooked a hose up to it, and blew into the hose while holding closed the opposite side. Didn't get anything through the middle of it so not sure if it leaks or if I can't generate enough PSI with my smoker lungs... swapped sides, and still no leak.

Pulled the throttle body, and found it was still warm. Tells me there was coolant flow through it which is good. Small amount of gunk in it. Mini-t-stat is working properly. No visible signs of leaks. Also good.


Will fill back up with strained water as I'm fresh out of distilled, and run the truck checking for leaks. I broke two of the spring clamps for the oil cooler. Guess I need to find a link, and then slap them on the next OEM order.

 

Trapped contamination thanks to ye olden coffee pot.

 

https://youtu.be/QPCo1xCgNNI

 

Sounds fine on this end. Listening through a cell phone speaker.

 

Naval jelly coating for 15min bath was the old-school way, but not convenient. If you've never used Evap-o-rust, I cannot recommend it enough. IF you've never heard of this stuff, it's freaking phenomenal. You won't believe how well it works and it's non-caustic, environmentally safe. Wire brush off the big garbage and flakes. Put nuts and bolts in a glass jar. Barely cover the pile in the jar with Evaporust. Leave it soaking overnight. The stuff is re-usable, so don't pour it out! Just dump the contents through a screen into another jar the next day to get your stuff, then rinse your now-rust-free items with water and treat with whatever anti-rust product you like. Run the leftover liquid through a coffee filter or cheese cloth and re-use a few more times.

Everything works better with acid

Could just be the pH is in a certain range they don't need to qualify it as 'acid'. But I laughed when I saw this.

Sounds considerably better than the first startup after TB/WP a couple pages back. I dunno what the low idle thing is on the back side of throttle, I only have experience with the VVT 4.7 at this point, though.

 

Worst case, the frame swappers may have a lead for you on the not quite right sounds. Probably getting close to that 'getterdone' call.

 

Sounds pretty good to me. I mean, it does have 300k on it so it's somewhat unreasonable to expect it to sound like something with, say, half the mileage, all other things being equal. I would say get ready for that call too. After the swap just drive it and maintain it properly and if any running issues come up deal with it then.

Great job and very inspiring @Tundra2.

 

I have literally nothing of any substance to add...just wanted to say every time I see the title of this thread appear on the homepage it makes me smile.

I did read through a few pages. Good work! Always makes me happy when I see someone putting time and effort into older vehicles to keep them on the road. Fighting back against the hyper-disposable culture we find ourselves in!

 

I believe you're selling yourself short, you just did. I admire a determined, tenacious young man too.

 

Well said.

 

Made one final Wallace wurl run. Picked up a prestibe flush'n'fill kit to butcher. Added radiator attachment from my oil funnel kit seeing as how I have two of the same kit now.



Couldn't get it over the 80° bend so I heated it up with my heat gun, and then formed the adapter over it... which promptly ripped a hole in it I sealed it back up with self Vulcanizing tape. Since this will be under almost no pressure, I figure it will be fine.

Cut up the two way adapter thing the kit comes with, and added some self vulc on the shaft. That created a seal. I slid the whole damn thing inside the radiator funnel adapter.

I'm taking one of the drain plugs with me to a local hardware store. I suspect that it's 1/8 NPT. If that's the case I can make some hose barbs that screw into the block, and then run those hoses into buckets for one final fully open system chunky flush with no air pressure. Just water flow.

Now that I feel confident that I've gotten all the big, chunky, blockages out, I just need to get all the other particulates out. This should do it. Course, there's going to be shit that comes out of the oil cooler, the heater core, and the radiator from here on out unless I replace all those items...

Heater core would be the hardest, and most expensive.

 

Local hardware store had zero brass nipples which I'd prefer for this. Grabbed two 3" 1/8NPT nipples. Damn close!

My section of hose I brought for test fitting slipped right over this snuggly so no need for fancy couplers, nor hose barbs! Cost savings! $4.00 + tax.


I'm not sure if this is @FrenchToasty approved or @Sirfive! Either way, shits happnin!

 

Get in where you fit in!

 

Sirfive approves all hairless nipples. Forgive my ignorance, but is this a block drain plug? Ive got enough faith that you know what your doing, but something tells me 1/8” isnt going to flow enough. If the particles get suspended in water, they could settle before they drain out. But i dont know. I was lucky, the inside of dads infiniti was pretty clean when i did the radiator.

 

Completely removed T-stat all together. Small amount of dirty water, but no chunks!


Attached my nipples to the block. Less than hand tight. One or two threads. Seen below is the drivers side.


An overview shot of the whole set up. Two lines per bucket. One from the actual drains, and one from where the drain plug would live.


Time for some video activity.

https://youtu.be/i_-Sq_U6EPc

 

I think those are 1/8 BSP, not NPT. But for just attaching them finger tight it'll be fine.

 

It's infuriating how similar those two are.

 

Sometimes it feels like the video is more about your crotch than the truck, but, I mean, that's cool /nohomo

So this was a cold flush with line-level pressure? Just curious if I missed something, got lost after you put your nipples on the block.

Produce any interesting result?

 

Sorry about this. I crop the video afterwards to upload 200MB worth of data to the YT instead of 1.6 GB (which would take 10 hours here.)

Line level pressure flush with both engine drains completely open. Sorry for the confusion, but I figured the pictures would speak for themselves.

I got some particles in the passengers side bucket, but didn't check the driver side bucket. It was WAY past bed time. They will all have settled to the bottom of the bucket by the time I get home.

 

Buttoned up the final drain, and fill. Will run distilled until the frame swap unless it starts to get Uber cold, but it's 90°F here in the middle of October....


Doing pre-launch checks before a test drive to work. Sounding nice, and broke loose once or twice in the yard. Rained hard earlier this morning so everything was soggy, and slippery.

 

Fuel system is now CLOSED LOOP!

 

Final pics of ye-olden timeth belt




Carpet has developed mold while sitting for a month...


Will continue to check Live data while on the level at the chapel