Crackhead resurrection

Looks like the OD is 15/16" and the bibs they sit on are 11/16.

Granted, YMMV, mine is an '06 and my hoses are factory original, 15 years old.

 

Im not trying to flush the new cooler. I want to by pass it so I don't clog the new one with shittake

I don't trust the old one for power flushing because of those seals you mentioned. I don't want to push water into my oil pan at 10 psi because of a fucked up seal. Which is why I want to by pass it just to do power flush.

Unless I'm not understanding something.

 

Thanks for this. I'll see what I can come up with. Should have sliced an end off for test fit at work, but can do that when I get home.


Made up a regulator at work. Will return this when I'm finished with it.

 

I'm a sick MF, I kinda want some payload videos of this flushing.I wanna see that thing crapping out like ....

https://www.reddit.com/r/gifs/comments/iw8rnv/unclogging_a_pipe/

 

I might be able to do some kind of video. Just not real sure exactly how I'm going to catch everything. I want to investigate the aftermath versus it just being on the ground...

 

Quoting this just so I can find it easier in the future.

 

Oh you can do it with the old one hooked up. That pipe won’t be getting the full force. No fear there. I was meaning to flush that thin out you’d need to be directly on it. That’s how you’d ruin it

 

Okay, gotcha. So I'll stick the old oil cooler on when I get home. Remove the T-stat, and set up for flushes. Depending on how I feel. I may do the flush then as well.

 

Yep. Hook it up and fire for effect!

 

I'll see what it does. I'll be sure to post pics, or take a video of it.

 

Been studying up on this wiring diagram you posted. Think I'm learning it okay in my free time. Work computer with larger screen, and stupid fast internet helps too. Been on the hunt for the accelerator position sensor clip because the retaining clip broke off. Think I finally found it. Connector A8.. Code number H6. See page 26. Go there. A8 is "Accel Position Sensor." Toy Part number 90980-11150.



Double check my work? Please, and thank you.

 

Make sure to get a terminal pin tool set to help change out the connector shells:

$7 MENKEY Terminal Removal Tool Kit for Car, 39 Pieces Wire Connector Pin Release Key Extractor Tools Set for Most Connector Terminal

https://www.amazon.com/MENKEY-Terminal-Removal-Connector-Extractor/dp/B07ZC1V2W6

 

Thanks for posting this. I added it to the cart. Can anyone recommend any good hose clamp pliers? I checked a few on the rainforest. Wasn't real sure what the pros use.

 

I concur and if connector is of a different color than white, you can look at the Connector List pg 224 where it shows it is black in color. It will also show what the pin #'s are in case you need to troubleshoot the "Accel Position Sensor" for example for proper voltage, gnd and/or signal(Accel Postion open/closed).

 

Good deal. I've already mangled one of the smaller hose clamps like shown below. Thus is what I've been using for the ones these fit in the space.


Connector order is placed.

 

Did a power flush. Here's my set up.
Max PSI used was 18.




Nastia. One day it will be better. Not today though. I'm pooped!




Reused one of the heater core hoses as my bypass including the blend valve. Couldn't come up with anything that I felt confident in.



Hooked up old oil cooler without mounting it so I couldn monitor if it ruptured or not. It didn't. Still doesn't instill me with confidence that it's usable.

Video uploading soon, but I got three five gallon buckets through the system. One of which was tap water, and two of which were distilled water.

First bucket was dingy, but no chunks. Second bucket was less dingy, and third distilled bucket was clear as pool water.

 

Now, should I drain the distilled water out that's in there, or leave it? I'm 95% sure I got all the tap water out, or at least diluted it enough so it wouldn't matter. Thoughts?

I mean, it's an iron block. If I drain the water out, the inside of the engine will rust more than it already is.

@BubbaW @empty_lord @Darkness @assassin10000

 

Where did you insert the hose/water? Nice work!

 

In the inlet the majority of the time, and the outlet the last little bit.

 

can’t remember, are ya’ll well water and if public, much lime in ya’lls water ?

 

Not much lime. Some calcium, but I put about 7-ish gallons of city water through, and did the rest of the 15 gallons with distilled.

I feel like it's diluted enough, but if you think draing the block would be wise at this point. I have nothing to put back in except my high dolla Zerex or more tap water.

 

https://youtu.be/vyxoBPLgt5k

 

I dig the reflector shirt...is that your every day garb, or only when you're power flushing (which, BTW, reminds me of that toilet that flushes golf balls)

 

Work issue work uniform. Lots of internal plant traffic. Fork lifts, tuggers, etc...

 

Why you gotta post a 20 min video right before I gotta go work? And while I'm low on data? Jerk.

 

I can squeeze it down and compress it. Speed it up for you, but it'll be after my nap.

 

Well, I'm tired. I'm leaving what's in the block in it. Not much more I can do now except wait for an oil cooler to show up.

 

Man, I'm sad, I was really expecting that thing to poop out solids like in that video I linked.

Sounds like it just liquified the contents? Do you have any specific passages you know were clogged so you can check for status on whether the content pushed out?

(I was expecting chunks also, but using your Tupperware experiment as a baseline, maybe not! I am curious now, how it originally settled as sediment, though!)

 

I think I got all the chunks out, and there was only a light film in the heater core lines. I'd bet it was the wrong coolant mixture, and it coagulated. Probably from lots of short drives. Farm life. Pack the bed full of tools. Pull up to the fence. Work on 20 feet. Pull up 20 feet. Work on 20 feet. Pull up 20 feet.

Probably just lots of sloshing from off/on/off/on/off/on.... that oughta create some kind of froth from all that slurrying.

I don't know though, and am only speculating. I feel like the block is clear, and was clear before power flushed. I'm not sure how the coolant goes through the block, or the heads, or any of that. I've only replaced what you've all have seen, and what I could get to easily on the outside of the engine.

Time will have to tell.

 

Indeed. I mean, I dunno if you'll be doing any more lines and/or ports that may expose other stuff. I'd be curious what the rear/lower block drains dumped out, but probably not something happening today. Just thinking about how sediment likes to settle at the bottom.

Really, the silver bullet on this will probably be a proper chemical flush. But in my mind, I'm also, like, given the maintenance history and prior life, prior ownership, what can of worms could that open up, y'know? Maybe stick to half or 1/4 the advertised usage amount of whatever treatment is used.