Crack P Trap on Upstairs Shower

Hit that thing with some flex tape and call it a day. Flex seal tape will move with expansion and contractions and it will not leak.

 

It's too late, he's got all the parts cut out. I was looking at the configuration of that drain and trying to figure out what the heck is going on. There's too many elbow joints monkeyed in together. It looks all messed up. I'm not sure if there is an S, a P or a combo of both making a WTF. There should be a simple p-trap, maybe a vent and a line to the main and that's it.
Maybe something like this:

 

If anything this thread has been educational..
Great to see us helping each other out..

 

Well got all my pieces in place, glued and set, gave it the water test, everything looks good. Then I notice a little dripping even further up closer to the shower drain itself, there is a little hairline crack, but that part of the pipe is glued in to the bottom of the tub or whatever that is . Maybe I can give it the flex seal or JB weld treatment ?

 

As a minimum you could try that. I’m assuming the flex in the shower floor , with old elbows wedged from the bottom it created pressure on those glued joints.
See if the tape works or JV weld around the collar. Since it’s only a drain and not a pressured closed system , you’ll probably have success.
If not, back to the drawing board. Does that joint go to another 90 and up into the shower pan or am I looking at
The shower pan. Hard to tell.

 

Don’t rig things. Fix them properly or they will haunt you and you’ll worry forever if you are going to have problems.

 

I'm with you, just really sucks to possibly have to drop thousands on a shower we almost never use.

 

Maybe the labels help, the crack is in the part of the pipe connected right to the shower drain I'm pretty sure.

 

Can we talk about what was going on here?

 

Just installed a shower in my basement a few months back. Plumbing(and breaking up the slab) looks daunting at first but once you get going, it’s actually pretty simple. Glad to see you tackled this yourself!

 

that was a 8 year old Facebook throwback back that popped up on my timeline today, back when me and my buddies thought we were buff. Had to Screencap and send out to cringe over.

 

The redneck in me is telling me to tell you to just backbutter it with abs glue and roll with it

 

Is your shower a fiberglass floor? Tiled on the floor?
You could probably get enough room to cut that section out and re-do it depending on how they set it in the floor for your shower drain and if you have enough room to cut the tub overflow/vent pipe above the Tee. By the workmanship on this I'm betting they cut corners. If you have some pipe to work with before it turns into the drain sleeve, you could redo that section. You should have some there. Keep us posted!

 

It's open..
Take a breath..

make the effort & fix it correctly.

 

You need to use an ABS solvent or roughen up the joints with some fine grit sand paper before applying the joint glue. It's also a good idea to twist the joints a little after setting them in place permanently.
I've done my own plumbing repairs and rough in's for nearly 40 years. You basically need to know one thing with plumbing. Shit flows downhill.

 

...Unless you have a macerating toilet in your basement...

 

it’s all technically correct. There’s a p-trap with a vent downstream... then a really short downhill to transition it to the main. I’ve had to look at it a half dozen times to wrap my head around it.

You’ve got the tub bottom exposed - fixing the drain pipe too would be best. Unfortunately that probably means redoing your trap (or part of it) again.

You’ll want an inexpensive tub drain wrench, and the tub drain threads into a female thread x hub elbow. Use plumbers putty for a gasket seal on the tub drain.

 

This is an odd method of support.
Can’t be code.

 

What a headache.
Repair it correctly.
Everything is open and accessible.

Can you move some insulation and such back and get a good pic of where it connects to the tub itself?

That connection should be a screw fitting.
It may be possible to unscrew and pull that whole piece out while you’re rebuilding.

 

Here is a pic looking straight up with some insulation moved, that pipe is the tub drain, looks like it is epoxied into a piece of drywall that is sitting below the tub?

 

What tha.?.?.

Wow.

 

That’s fire caulk, it can be removed

 

Why in the world would they put fire caulk there?

I’m not understanding that setup.
Is that supposed to be a firewall?

 

It does sit above the garage, could that be the reason?

 

Holy crap. I would get in touch with Fulton tomorrow morning and find out wtf that plumber was thinking, and also how that passed their inspection.

 

Possibly.
Just an odd way of doing that.

There’s so many other failure points beside the caulk.

 

2hr fire caulk.

20 minute usb board.



Hm.

 

That plumber must have known something.
No wonder the 2k quote.
Was he the one that installed it?

 

haha I'm not sure, I definitely got the vibe that this was a job he did not want to do and the more I dig into it the more I am understanding why