Considering trailer weight and tongue weight, should I get Sumo Springs?

I'm sure they are answered in an assortment of places, but please indulge me.

I have a 2007 Tundra with 5.7L Tow/HaulAss package.

114,000 miles.

Bilstein 5100 rear and 6112 front.

Buying an RV...GVWR is 7,000 lbs.

Tongue weight is 885 lbs.

I'm already aware of my payload limit (1,580lbs) etc. Not planning on carrying much in the truck.

Anyway, I am going to install a TRD sway bar upon advice of friend with same RV and 2017 Tundra.

I have read about the Sumo Springs (blue) and am considering having them installed together with the sway bar.

My friend with the 2017 Tundra with same RV weight, etc, says I need the sway bar but doesn't really think I need the Sumo springs.

I will have my local shop install the sway bar, and am pretty sure that at the time of install it is pretty much no additional work to install those springs. Obviously if I don't do it and find I need them, it is a lot less cost effective to have them installed after the sway bar is put in.

So...considering trailer weight and especially tongue weight, should I just go ahead and get the Sumo Springs?

eTrailer has them for $225, would need to order them up to get them in and have them installed before picking up the new RV in early to mid November.

Thanks for the advice...I really trust what you guys have to say.

SPP

 

You are going to need a weight distribution hitch.

 

Yup...getting an equalizer.

SPP

 

Forget both and purchase a Roadmaster Active Suspension HD kit. Best investment period.

 

Looked at that, but since I already ordered the sway bar, trying not to spend more $$ than I have to.

Still looking for advice on whether or not to get the Sumo springs...

SPP

 

My advice, yes get the sumo. If me, i would get the RAS and sell the sway bar to someone else. I have the yellow sumo, RAS, and Dobinson's HD leaf packs on my truck. It is a beast and don't squat or sway.

 

OP, the truth is if you want to keep the truck for a long time and do it right, then leaf packs are the answer. Forget all the other band aides. The issue Is you are short on time. Truth is, Sumo springs are simply soft extended bump stops, they are not technically a spring. Airbags can and do fail, sometime with catastrophic results. Sway bar is better for a road course race truck. You want to haul a load and prevent body roll, leaf springs do those things. The sway bar does nothing to keep your headlights in focus. I get it, you bought it hook, line, and sinker. NP, sell it and get leaf packs. Then enjoy the trailer for a good long while!

 

Ditto on the WDH. Then try to shift cargo in the trailer to get you closer to the 9-11% tongue weight that Toyota recommends. Also is your quoted payload number that actual true payload for your truck as built?

 

Well, one thing to consider is this is a 14 year old truck with 114,000 miles.

Frame pretty decent rust wise, bed has some issues with rust.

Plan would be to use this truck as tow vehicle for 2-3 years, then get 2023 or newer Tundra (increased payload, etc) to replace it (as a tow vehicle).

I do plan to keep this truck, as it is set up to plow my driveway.

When the time comes that I can swing a new Tundra, I would probably trade in/sell my '09 Highlander (85k on the clock).

So long term isn't really in the plan...just need to figure out where the next $50k+ will come from to replace it as a tow vehicle.

SPP

 

Definitely getting the WDH.

According to "My Toyota" specs with my VIN the payload is 1,580.

SPP

 

Plans and goals are good, however safe travel is your current NEED. The new truck is a want. My advice, needs before wants.

 

Definitely agree on this.

Just not sure why I would be unsafe if I am within specs and using WDH.

SPP

 

I wasn't able to find the true payload on mine until it was delivered. There's a model number inside the door that must be matched up in the owners manual then the weight of port installed options subtracted from that. The weight of the port installed options are posted in a yellow sticker also inside the door jam. My true, as built payload is 1217 IIRC.

 

Will check this out.

SPP

 

FYI, with fair maintenance your truck should easily go 3O0k, probably more. Especially highway driving, just drain and fill, not flush tranny every 30k to keep it happy. That's much cheaper than a new truck too! Wanna talk MPG, get your calculator out, fuel savings would take a very long time to pay for a new truck. Just not worth it. Get your monies worth out of what you have is a better option.

 

You likely won't be unsafe exactly. However, let's throw in a need to swerve hard and the need to correct. That is when having extra capability can keep you and others alive.

 

I agree! RAS & Equalizer E4 WDH.

 

My model code is USK56L-PSTSKA which with the tow package and large fuel tank leaves 1270# less the 53# of port options.

 

In the past I have used Timbrens and airbags which both work very well but I can see how they are kinda of a “bandaid”.

In regards to swapping leaf springs, be prepared for a stiffer ride if you go that route. I had two different sets of Alcan springs. One standard (OEM) load replacements and one HD load which gave me about an inch of lift. They were absolutely buttery smooth when my ATV or heavy weight was in the bed (1998 and 2003 Tacoma). But unfortunately they were a little bouncy unloaded. When I towed multiple ATVs on a 12 foot trailer (2kish total) they worked perfectly with minimal sag. And I would highly recommend them if towing and/or having constant payload in the bed.

This may not be an issue OP because it seems like the Tundra for you is mainly a towing vehicle? Just something to keep in mind…

 

The key to leafsprings giving a smooth ride is multiple thin leaves, not a few thick leaves.

 

I'm retired and don't really need to drive the truck much. I've owned it since January and have only put about 2k miles on it.

That said, I imagine the majority of longer distance driving with it will be towing.

But, in the next few years I imagine we will only travel with RV in tow within 350-400 miles of our home. Not really thinking of any real cross country type trips until we have really gotten our feet wet, that is, in a few years.

SPP

 

I really appreciate all the feedback so far.

SPP

 

Is yours too old to have a payload sticker in the driver door?

 

I think so...I looked and did not see that info on there.

Will double check though.

SPP

 

So if you're not driving it much but will be using it for towing and as your winter plow, did you consider the whole Dobinsons kit front and rear with some heavier coils up front and leafs in the back? Or ,something similar for that year....
I'd at least research the pros and cons of going that route.

 

Do you have the owners manual? I'm not sure if the model specific payload can be calculated with the manual like the newer trucks. One sure way to find out is to fill your gas tank and find a scale. I'd recommend loading it as you would for a camping trip including the passengers. Subtract that weight from the GVWR and you have left what you can carry for the tongue weight and WDH weight. Or, strip it of all the extras add ons like tooks, roadside emergency kits etc and get out of the truck before weighing.
I did a pure wild ass guess when we left for our maiden voyage and came in at only 40# over gross on the truck when we stopped at the CAT scales. Simply moving a small Coleman camping grill from the bed to the back of the trailer put me in under just enough to supersize my McDonald's lunches.

 

Relax, DOT is not going to harass this man. Not even if was over payload a few pounds. They are not harassing non commercial pickup trucks.

 

You're right. I do admire the fact that he wants to do it right.

 

Summos work well for body sway and do help out for some increased loading.
The RAS is nicee for having the added capacity but not beating your kidneys into submission when your running around without a trailer attached.
For me, that would be the hot set up and I would shit can the sway bar.

 

I may be wrong, but I don't think that RAS and rear sway bar are mutually exclusive.........