Coachbuilder VS Toytec Shackles

Why are new bushings required? Why can't the stock ones be used with new shackles?

 

Last night this was the price, I was going to place the order just now and the price changed to $218.98 with bushings.

 

hell ya! picked up a pair last night and used the tundra dude 5% discount off sparks parts. Got the toytec shackles for 168 shipped.

 

I bought these a year ago?!

 

Those are $219 with the poly bushings, not $156. That is the same price as Toytec charges directly from their website. Now add in $15 for shipping and you are at $234. If you then purchased the $17 drive line spacers that come in the kit for free with CB shackles, it would be an additional $17 plus $10 shipping. So $27 additional on the $234 toytec would put you at $261. The CB shackles I found were $315. As you can see, the price difference is not huge.

Now yes I know that some people don't run the drive line spacers and are fine, but I am trying to compare "apples to apples". Just to be clear to anyone who reads this later, I am not recommending or saying one brand is better than the other. I have owned Toytec products on previous vehicles Ive owned and they were perfect. I have never owned any CB products. From this research, in my own opinion, I feel both products are well made and will easily last as long as you own the vehicle. You can't go wrong with either.

 

Last night when i posted the link, they were $156, as other people above jumped on it at that price. Yes the price has changed now.

 

Was that with the poly bushings added on? How much was the shipping to your location? If that was only a 5% discount, I am not understanding how it is so cheap. Its showing me a price of $199 plus $20 the bushing upgrade. Even without the bushings, and the using the discount code, that only brings it to $189 plus shipping costs.

 

Damn, wish I had seen it last night.

 

Yes, with the bushings:

Subtotal
$155.98
Promo discount 5%
-$7.80
Shipping (Cheapest Method (5-9 Business Days))
$20.11
Total
$168.29

 

Good deal. Too bad the price changed now. They have almost doubled in price apparently since they were purchased last year for $139. At $139 I can clearly see why nobody would have considered CB at over $300. But unfortunately that price difference gap is closing dramatically.

 

So poly bushings make the ride firmer vs the factory rubber bushings?

 

I am very stuck on what to do here on my truck for a lift. My DV8 bumpers and Engo 12k winch are installed now. My measurements from the front bottom lip of the fender to the center of the front hub are 21 3/4". The rear measures 23 3/4". The only thing that has me worried and I am hearing the factory springs are 700# springs and the 6112s are supposedly 650# springs. This makes me think that the 6112 springs will settle a little more than my factory 700# springs. If that is the case, I may end up with a bit more than a 2" difference if they were set at factory height. So I am not sure I can count on the 1.9" setting actually being 1.9" because of my bumper/winch. So the next option is to set them at 2.5", but if they do hold close to that amount of lift, I will end up a half a inch high in the front. Which at that time I would end up wanting to do toytec shackles probably on the 1" setting.

I have seen ABS brackets offered when buying rear shackles... what is that about? If they are needed, what amount of lift are they required at or is there another work around for them. I don't see people talk about them much.

 

Not sure where you heard the factory springs are 700 lbers, for some reason 600 seems to be sticking in my mind. Also, I think setting em at 2.5” would be a better plan and just adding the shackles in the rear if needed.

 

So here is a question... would you set them at the 2.5" setting, or would you set them at 1.9" and add a 1/4" shim above them for a total lift of 2.4"? I guess the theory behind the shim choice is that the springs will have less load on them and will make them ride smoother while still getting the lift desired. I am not a engineer, so I dont fully understand how the suspension works, but I was always under the impression that the way spacers on top of the strut assembly lifts the vehicle is by preloading the springs... so if that is the case, the 1.9" setting with shims would simply cost more money and not really make any difference. Wish we had a engineer to explain this lol.

 

Based on what I’ve been told, adding shims is basically like adding a thinner spacer. I’ve never heard of CB shims making a coilover fail, but I wanted to stay away from em regardless. I’ve heard nothing but good things about 6112’s, and have never heard of them being rough at either the 1.9 or 2.5” setting. So I think you’d be good at 2.5, sorry I don’t have a better answer for ya. I’m thinking someone like @csuviper or @jberry813 would have a more in depth answer.

 

So would it be advantageous to add a bump stop extension for 2(on either side) coachbuilder shims?

 

I was hoping you would show up and chime in on this! I greatly appreciate it. That explained a lot. I also now know why I broke the bottom shock mount off of my 2005 Tundra 4x4 that has a 3" ReadyLift spacer on it. Guess I need to look into getting some 6112s for it as well.

So since I am the most indecisive person on the planet, if you were me, and knowing my front and rear current measurements are exactly 2" difference between the front and rear height, would you simply put the 6112s at 1.9" and leave the rear alone? Or would you put the 6112s at 2.5" and go with a 1" toytec shackle in the rear as well? Keep in mind I have already ordered Nitto Ridge Grapplers in 35x12.50r20 with a 20x9 wheel and +25 offset... this truck will be on the pavement 97% of the time, but the 3% I will go offroad, I will flex it to full articulation and I am not scared to push the truck.

 

By the way, I vote Jerry's explanation on how coilovers work up there be made into a sticky if one does not already exist!

 

JBerry... my bad

 

Those kings are very nice, but also very expensive. If I lived in Cali where we had some dunes to run, I would definitely look at something like that. In Texas, at least where I am, its usually trails where you are just crawling along at a slow speed with occasional mud or sand. I don't think I have ever had any of my 4x4s over 15 mph offroad.

 

Did any of you add a leaf when putting on shackles?

 

I wonder if more people that went with 1.9 setting wished they went to the top setting or vice versa. Im stuck on this decision as well, but I will be going with the Toytec shackle either way as I like a little rake.

 

One thing I can say without a doubt, is that if you truly have your heart set on shackles in the rear no matter what, I personally, would definitely go with the 2.5" setting. Even with the 2.5" and a shackle set at 1" in the rear, you will have a little rake. If you want more like factory rake, you could go 1.5" or even more on the shackle. If at any point I decide to raise the 6112s to 2.5", I will be installing a shackle in the rear for sure.

 

Why on earth would you want to sell those? They seem like the end game of suspension systems.