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Carrier Bearing At home job or dealer?

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Jerry311SD, May 8, 2018.

  1. May 8, 2018 at 10:59 AM
    #1
    Jerry311SD

    Jerry311SD [OP] New Member

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    05 Tundra double cab. Just bought it. The Carrier bearing needs to be replaced.

    I'm going to call the place i bought it from and see what they have to say first.

    I have done it on my Tacoma. But not on a Tundra.
    Is this somthing that can be done at home or do I need to take it to a shop.

    If a Shop is needed any recomendations on a shop here in San Diego?
     
    01erionracing and LaaMahTundra like this.
  2. May 8, 2018 at 3:15 PM
    #2
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Just watched a few youtube vids last night to see what was available for my 2002 Tundra 4WD in case I ever wanted to do some repairs should they come up. Saw a really good carrier bearing vid that was less than 10 minutes long by a guy but can’t remember his name. Guy made it look easy. He sprayed some rust loosener on the bearing nuts for a few days prior to the job to make it easier. Very informative and empowering. Sounds like you can do it if you already did a Taco.
     
  3. May 9, 2018 at 2:53 AM
    #3
    LaaMahTundra

    LaaMahTundra Luv it Moa, when it's Clean!

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    I’m also looking to replace my carrier bearing. Any shop in the Orange County area that has done this, please advise.
    Thank you
     
    Jerry311SD [OP] likes this.
  4. May 9, 2018 at 6:59 AM
    #4
    Jerry311SD

    Jerry311SD [OP] New Member

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    I watched a few Youtube vids.
    It pretty much the same as my Tacoma was. onlything is I'll have to remove a U-Joint.

    I know I should go with a OEM Toyota Bearing but Autozone has a 5 year Warr on the one they have for 90$. If I have to do it agian it will be free to replace and just a hour of my time. When i do mine I'll do a write up also with Pictures..
     
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  5. May 9, 2018 at 7:02 AM
    #5
    nk1794

    nk1794 Always torque to spec

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    If you have the tools or willing to buy tools and have the confident to do the job then I’d say do it yourself otherwise take it to the shop.
     
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  6. May 9, 2018 at 7:50 AM
    #6
    Jerry311SD

    Jerry311SD [OP] New Member

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    I think the only problem I'll have will begetting the old bearing off. but I can run and buy a puller if needed. I didnt need one for the Tacoma.
    I'll try and do it this weekend.
     
  7. May 9, 2018 at 8:00 AM
    #7
    nk1794

    nk1794 Always torque to spec

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    :thumbsup: Good luck. Let us know how it goes. :cheers:
     
    Jerry311SD [OP] likes this.
  8. May 9, 2018 at 8:05 AM
    #8
    040Tundra

    040Tundra Teddy 2013-2019

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    A little of this and a little of that.
    Autozone and other auto parts stores will usually let you borrow tools like a puller. I’d check with them and see if they offer that.
     
    RickC and nk1794 like this.
  9. May 9, 2018 at 8:10 AM
    #9
    RickC

    RickC NOT a new member

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    What he said ^^^^^

    I have rented tools several times renting their spring compressor to do lifts and spring replacements.
     
    Jerry311SD [OP] and 040Tundra like this.
  10. May 9, 2018 at 9:02 AM
    #10
    koditten

    koditten New Member

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    I just did the CB on mine. The job is the same as doing a Tacoma. The difference is we have that boot over the telscoping drive shaft. If you dont separate the 2 parts, it is a 2 man job.

    I did not need a puller to get the bearing off. It cam apart with some hammer swats.

    Don't forget to mark all the locations of where the driveshafts bolt to flanges.
     
  11. May 9, 2018 at 9:05 AM
    #11
    nk1794

    nk1794 Always torque to spec

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    Great job!
     
  12. May 11, 2018 at 10:27 AM
    #12
    Jerry311SD

    Jerry311SD [OP] New Member

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    Done,
    Super easy. Took me an hour. New carrier bearing and greasable u-joint.
    Dropped the carrier bearing 1/4 with a aluminum block 1/4 thick.
    Next project is front 5100s to lift it a little and lower ball joints.

    IMG_20180508_140842.jpg
    IMG_20180510_184021.jpg
    IMG_20180511_070243.jpg
    IMG_20180511_102234.jpg
     
  13. May 11, 2018 at 10:28 AM
    #13
    nk1794

    nk1794 Always torque to spec

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    Good job!
     
    Jerry311SD [OP] likes this.
  14. May 11, 2018 at 11:55 AM
    #14
    LaaMahTundra

    LaaMahTundra Luv it Moa, when it's Clean!

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    Awesome Jerry, congrats, nice pics!
     
    Jerry311SD [OP] likes this.
  15. May 11, 2018 at 3:09 PM
    #15
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Yeah buddy you got this!
     
    Jerry311SD [OP] likes this.
  16. Jun 6, 2018 at 3:19 PM
    #16
    Afkouki

    Afkouki New Member

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    I just finished with mine last week. It was my first time ever doing U joints so I got to learn something new. I used the ball joint tool and a bearing puller from advanced. I needed the puller to get the carrier bearing off, it was really stuck on there. After I put it all back together the new bearing wasn't spinning right. Said screw it and dropped the shaft off at a shop. They freed up the bearing, checked my U joint work, and balanced and painted the shaft. Cost me $81

    20180525_200807.jpg
    20180531_191102.jpg
    20180531_191115.jpg
     
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  17. Jun 6, 2018 at 4:44 PM
    #17
    ZPMAN

    ZPMAN 2nd place is the 1st looser

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    Did the bearing go out or the rubber wear out?
     
  18. Jun 6, 2018 at 6:56 PM
    #18
    Afkouki

    Afkouki New Member

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    Rubber had a lot of play in it, found a few worn out u joints when I took it apart. I was having vibration st highway speeds
     
  19. Jun 6, 2018 at 8:33 PM
    #19
    ZPMAN

    ZPMAN 2nd place is the 1st looser

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    I have fixed a few carrier bearings in the past, think they wanted $180 when I checked for my 89 toy. What I did was degrease what remaining rubber I had , centered the bearing then filled it with urethane, it's used for adhering windshields. No more vibrations.

    Screenshot_20180606-221752_Chrome.jpg
     
  20. Jun 6, 2018 at 8:41 PM
    #20
    Jerry311SD

    Jerry311SD [OP] New Member

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    On mine the rubber was wearing out. And it was making a slight humming noise.
     
  21. Jun 6, 2018 at 8:52 PM
    #21
    ZPMAN

    ZPMAN 2nd place is the 1st looser

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    My 89 had 189,000 on it and the rubber was dryrotting.
     
  22. Mar 31, 2021 at 2:39 PM
    #22
    BobTTundra

    BobTTundra New Member

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    Usually when the center bearing is worn out the U-joints are worn as well, putting more stress on the center bearing and hastening its demise. My mechanic recommended always replacing U-joints when replacing center support bearing, I do so, removing the shaft myself and sending it to Oceanside Driveline http://www.oceansidedriveline.com/. They disassemble, new U-joints, new carrier bearing, service slip yoke, clean, paint, and balance. Good as new! Here is a link to my build thread with more details: https://www.tundras.com/threads/the-6-million-dollar-tundra-revival-story.84992/#post-2171272
     
  23. Mar 31, 2021 at 3:13 PM
    #23
    KNABORES

    KNABORES Not so new-ish Member

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    I'm digging that painted action on that one. I replaced the carrier bearing since it basically looked like it collapsed metal collar. Rubber had given up. Relatively easy. Didn't replace any of the U-joints, but have kept em greased up every other oil change since I got it. No weird vibes. Just wish the slip yoke seal was available so I could replace mine.
     
    Jerry311SD [OP] likes this.
  24. Jun 10, 2021 at 9:59 AM
    #24
    Cartour2020

    Cartour2020 New Member

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    Hello all, I know this thread is couple of months old, I noticed that one of picture shows the original center carrier while still on the truck, there shows the one single hole on the bottom pointing to the ground, then other picture shows the new carrier already installed, and on that picture the hole is on top and the two oval holes are facing the ground. Does it make any difference which side points down at all? I replaced mine a few years back on my '06 double cab, 4WD and the two oval holes were facing down and so I installed the new one the same way. I am about to replace it again and just want to make sure I do it right.
     
  25. Jun 10, 2021 at 10:25 AM
    #25
    2mchfun

    2mchfun Lead foot, left lane, loud stereo

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    I'd guess the top most center hole is a heat vent, makes sense. Then the two lower holes are for rubber condition inspection and also for cooling to some extent. Just what makes the most sense.
     
  26. Jun 10, 2021 at 10:34 AM
    #26
    Sirfive

    Sirfive Overqualified village idiot

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    Weephole? I dont have a hole on either side of the rubber on mine. Mine was super easy, and would have been easier if i had marked my driveshaft alignment.
     
  27. Jun 10, 2021 at 10:36 AM
    #27
    19TurdPro

    19TurdPro New Member

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    It absolutely makes a difference. This thread is 3 years old, but Jerry's carrier bearing is on upside down.
    The mounting flange of the carrier bearing is offset from the center by about 5/8 of an inch. The one, smaller hole needs to be facing down. If you do it wrong, you can introduce driveline shudder on acceleration.
     
  28. Jun 10, 2021 at 10:40 AM
    #28
    2mchfun

    2mchfun Lead foot, left lane, loud stereo

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    Thanks for the clarification, I would expect that to be an obvious difference to anyone who is actually making a swap. I mean if not, they probably shouldn't be wrenching on critical components.
     
  29. Jun 10, 2021 at 10:41 AM
    #29
    Sirfive

    Sirfive Overqualified village idiot

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    199056285_536906150652631_16023930598138_9cdffc35c415cb3a7853ce6b7fddf60a273d3c9c.jpg
     
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  30. Jun 10, 2021 at 10:44 AM
    #30
    19TurdPro

    19TurdPro New Member

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    No problem, and in case there is a design change with the holes, the larger offset faces down so if moves the driveshaft further away from the truck, and closer to the ground. If that makes sense.
     
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