Cargo Bed Lights not working

My Cargo bed lights are not turning on? Any thoughts on what to check? These came dealer-installed.

 

maybe your cargo light switch is oFF?

 

Fuse?

 

Not sure which fuse this would be. Any idea?

 

To me sounds like a loose connection, the cargo lights option kit comes with the cheap t-taps and later or sooner this becomes loose (I know this because it happened to me) You can go under dashboard and check the t-tap I recommend you to replace it with a Positap.

The wiring is in front of the ECU harness is the only one with black plastic wire loom and have a inline fuse holder

 

Fuse for cargo light, I'd imagine, interior fuse panel driver a-pillar lower kick panel.

All the lights are out yes, upper 3rd brake light in addition to the rear most?

Being a 17, I'd assume your out of warranty because your asking use for help. Otherwise, I'd say take it to the dealer.

 

Checked fuses. All are good

 

Checked that inline fuse. Looks ok

 

Which tells me the 3rd brake light works, maybe?

If so, then there is probably an issue with wiring isolated specifically between the rear lights and where they tap into the main harness.

 

Yup. Everything else works fine.

Anyone know if this type of issue is covered under warranty?

 

Would be under the 3/36k, dont think it'll fly past that.

Edit: dealer add on so probably only carrys the 12month warranty

 

http://toyotaparts.sparkstoyota.com/install/00016-34089inst.pdf

Here's the instructions for the installation of the bed lights. There are not many places where a connection could've gone wrong. That's where I'd start looking.

 

Nothing looks off. I took a look at the inline fuse near the ecu and fuse box. All looks ok. I'm thinking it might be near the wiring harness in the back near the spare tire.

Gonna take it to the dealer tomorrow to see if they cover it. I'll update the thread then with what the issue was.

 

If your near Earnhardt off the 60, go see Joe Naggy. Great guy.

If your Gilbert and san tan 202 area, go see Zach, great guy as well!

 

Check the connection right near the tow hitch under the truck. I had this issue in the past and that connection came loose. Its where all harness connections come together. The other thing to check is to make sure your splices are tight under left side of driver dashboard.

 

This is the Red t-tap I’m talking about, check this splice to make sure is tight and making a good connection when mine stopped working I knew it was this thing I replaced it with a positap and all worked again.

 

Holy buckets, that wire looks way to small to be using a T-tap like that. Strip it and solder if that is the case!

 

Edit: What gauge wire do you think this is?

 

20 gauge you can safely use a RED positap going bigger than that can cut the wire.

 

Had this issue. Bad ground.

 

Where is the ground at?

 

Dealer just said it's not covered under warranty since this wasnt installed at the Texas factory. They want to charge $100 to diagnose.

 

It would appear that the ground for a 17 was “tapped” onto the white and black ground wires with the eyelets held tight by the 10mm bolt just underneath the driver’s side kick panel.

 

El Nopal shows where it's grounded. I redid the grounds at both lights and kept them local.

 

Took me forever to get around to this (literally 4 years). No luck. Replaced the t-tap with a posi-tap connector and no dice. I think I'm just gonna give up at this point.

 

I had one go out on me, led died after 4 years. I opened up the light and put in a new led from a bed light strip kit and all good.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/bed-led-lights-2016-1794-direct-replacement.125658/#post-3219584

 

OEM bed lights have cheap dim LEDS.
I replaced mine with a $20 set of Amazon lights, had to fit and solder the wiring...
Amazon.com: Ampper White LED Rock Light for Bed Track, 60 LEDs Cargo Pickup Truck Bed Lighting Kit W/Switch Fuse for Truck Bed, Foot Wells, Under Car, Rail Light and More (20 Pcs) : Automotive

You've already got the wiring, just test them and make sure the wires are hot when you cut the old lights off.



If you don't want to put it all together, Matt Gecko makes a nice kit.
Just email him and tell him you don't need all the wiring.
You just need enough to connect to your current OEM wiring..

Motorcycle LED Headlights - MATT GECKO LEDS

 

I like this option. Can you share any pics of your set up? Also, what did you do with the existing lights? did you just leave them in that location even though they aren't functional?

 

I don't have pics of the lights, maybe I can take some tomorrow.
I will say I taped off the actual lights and painted the wires black.
I didn't realize the black LED lights had white wires when I bought them.

I cut the OEM lights off and trashed them, I used the existing wiring and soldered the Amazon lights in.
My OEM setup was a little different.
I have a swing case and couldn't put the OEM lights in both the tailgate rear corners and put one up front.
I wired the passenger side to the rear passenger side OEM bedlight and the driver's side to the front OEM bedlight.



I did have the thought of modifying the OEM bed lights with VLED puddle lights.
Cut the appropriate sized hole in the OEM fixture and wire the VLED puddle lights.
But having one in the front would have blinded me when I opened the tailgate.
You might consider mounting some kind of LED light into you existing bedlight.
That would be easier than doing all the work I did of wiring and mounting them to my bedrail.

The VLEDs are a bit expensive but very bright.
I used them for my custom mirror puddle lights.
Perhaps you could find something on Amazon that would be cheaper and work.

UNIVERSAL LED PUDDLE LIGHT (vleds.com)



I just got off from a 13 hour work day so I hope this post makes sense..