Can my bed be fixed?

Yeah, close, but close enough for OP to spend the money on a new Bakflip just to find out close enough wont work for him to have a tight seal wont be good

 

Its possible, if pulled by a tech in a bodyshop thats good...im just afraid that OP buys a new Bakflip and finds that he cant get a square install and have trouble with leaks

 

This is true, but I'd still give it a try. Of course, I'm the kind that has to try before spending money if I think there's a chance of it Working without making things worse. I would have to see it in person to be able to make that decision.

 

Mine was a little less severe than yours.

I took a 1x6 wood board and drove it in between the cab and the bed from the passenger side GENTLY and went about 5 to 6 inches down from the top of the bed so as to be care full and not scratch the paint where you can see it from the side or from inside of the bed of the truck. The wood is softer than the paint and will not scratch it if your careful. I just worked my way across a little at a time.

I needed another 1/2 inch thicker board to get it pushed back all of the way to where it was straight again so I ripped a 2x6 down to 1 1/4" and removed the 1x6 and drove it in between the bed and cab. Just be patient and work slowly and dont hit your cab or your back window with your hammer when your driving the board in! All straightened out perfectly.

The 6" wide board spreads out the load and will reduce the chance of denting the cab and will spread out the load on the bed rail top. Moves easier than you would think. (Reason that it bent forward so easily.) That metal is not that thick or tough.

Since yours is so close you might try a piece of 1/4 to 3/8ths ply wood first. Then move on to 1x6, ect. You can sand the edge of the plywood thin to get it even thinner to a point even, to get it started down in between the bed and the cab. The bed metal will move back. You will just have to work at it.

The wood gives and won't hardly scratch the paint on the cab or bed at all if your careful. Cant even tell that I did the fix. Can not see in between the cab and bed anyway and my truck is black so no evidence at all of the fix.

 

Can anyone tell me the actual measurement of the gap between the cab and the front rail of the bed? I am curious just how much it's actually bent.

 

Just go and buy 5-10 tubes of caulk and caulk the shit out of it!!!!!

 

It's spelled COCK ok! Fill it with cock. Cock the shit out of it.

 

Don't judge me because I can't spell!!!!!

 

Dont think about it, just do it.

 

we just took a turn...a bad turn.

 

thats what she said

 

oh it gets worse, I've seen it. Its like one spark in a fart factory on here.

 

In all seriousness. Why not do your best to get it back into shape with one of the procedures mentioned here. Then get one of those motorcycle reinforcement bars the guys use to mount dirt bikes in the bed of the truck? That would at least help you retain its shape once it's been bent back.

 

http://www.discountramps.com/motorc...MI8O3U54Cc1QIVSU1-Ch3F8gsMEAQYAiABEgKVO_D_BwE

http://ccrsport.com/bed-buddy-motor...MI8O3U54Cc1QIVSU1-Ch3F8gsMEAQYAyABEgKVH_D_BwE

 

Really like that! I wonder if it can be installed with a BakFlip installed? I know you can fold the BakFlip up against the cab of the truck to have access to the whole bed, but would the cover fully close with this installed?

 

It looks like you could mount it at whatever height you want to. I saw some pictures of it mounted below the deck rail system. I need to see what or how the backflip mounts.
From what I could tell in pictures I've seen it only relocates the side bed rail system down lower. But it leaves the front one in place on the bulkhead. Which to me means that nothing interferes with it up front. Hopefully somebody else can chime in or post some pics of how theirs installs.

 

When I bought my 14 DCLB it had the same thing. Looked almost identical. I called body shop after body shop until I found a guy that had seen this numerous times and had a specific tool to get it back to straight. When he was done I couldn't even tell it was ever bent. Not saying this is the correct method to fix it but it worked. As much as I used my bed, I was cool with it. I was able to put my cover on straight without any leaks and it was free. Just my two cents. Maybe call around a little. Good luck.

 

Dude I think that you can start fixing that by driving a piece of plywood with some cloth covering the end of it in between the bed and that rail. as the bed moves back go thicker on the ply wood to move it out even more. Then go up to a piece of 1x6 and then rip a 2x6 down a bit to get the gap right again.

I didn't have to use fabric on the end of my boards but with that being so close the fabric will help protect against scratching the bed and will allow the wood to slip back out easy. As the gap gets wider you can use your fingers to get between the rail and the cab and get some pull that way too once you get it apart enough. That metal rail will move back.

 

I got that feeling too, feel pretty dumb that I didn't notice it when I bought the truck.
Pretty difficult to remove the bed, right?

 

I bent the front of the bed pretty badly on my 1st gen Tundra. I was returning home with a new bucket for my backhoe when the rope holding it against the tailgate let loose on a pretty hard stop. It bent the front of the bed so bad that it dented the back of the cab too. The noise from them rubbing was annoying so I pulled the bed and straightened it with a sledge hammer. I just used C-clamps to hold a 2x4 along the top rail and gave it a couple good hits. When I was done the top rail was perfectly straight and the sheet metal below it had just a minor bow to it. I did the back of the cab as well as the rear seats looked funny.

 

Pulling the bed is probably a pretty big job.

 

We have fixed this type of damage a lot, take it to a body shop and talk to them. It can be fixed well enough to put a bed cove on with out replacing the panel.

 

it wasn't that bad. There's 6 or 8 big bolts that hold it to the frame. There's the rubber hose for the fuel filler. The taillights need to be removed and some wiring that's held to the bed with clips. I suspect that you'll need 4 people to lift it up. I made a makeshift frame and used some ratchet straps to lift it so I didn't have to wait for help. The 1st gen is a little smaller and the sides of the bed are lower. If motivated I would say less than an hour to do.

 

Pull bed. Lay a 2x4 across front of bed at top. Hit 2x4 until everything is straight. Start on outsides and work your way to the middle. It’ll be fine. Done it on a couple trucks for friends.

 

Here is a simple solution/fix...

As stated above, put a 4x4 in the bed along the top of the rear panel. If possible, get another board to go between the bed and the back of the cab. Then use a few C-Clamps or ratchet bar-clamps to pull the back of the bed into alignment with the 4x4 in the bed. The board (or piece of angle iron) on the outside of the bed will ensure that whatever pressure you exert of the back of the bed will be a bit more evenly distributed.

 

Well, if I could find a video of someone doing this I would possibly consider it. I did have a 65 Buick Special that I tore apart and installed floor and trunk pans.

 

I dont think I could get a C-Clamp between the bed and cab.

 

Do a search on YouTube. There's bound to be several videos on removing the bed.

 

It's probably a lot easier than changing the rear bank valve cover gaskets on a 2006 RX330 from the topside.

 

Yeah, I looked at that bed today, definitely not an hour job. Especially if you're working by yourself. You also need to remove the inner fender wells and probably the bumper too.
It looks like a lot of work.
I would need to figure out how to lift the bed. Don't know if I could get four people to lift it reliably. Everyone has a bad back these days.