CAM SHAFT TOWER SEAL LEAKING ** PLEASE READ***

I'm planning on test driving a '14 CM Ltd with 97K miles and an '18 DC SR5 with 106K miles, both 5.7L next week. (Both about the same price). I read through a lot of this thread, but then my eyes started to glaze over. Would someone be so kind as to post a link or links to photos of what I should be looking for?

Plus after various statements, all in good faith, I can't be sure if this is something Toyota is still repairing under any kind of extended warranty or recall situation or not.

Have had Toyota/Lexus for decades and all except an ES300 that had a transmission give out, they've been close to bullet proof. I had a '10 Tundra Ltd DC and with normal maintenance it was flawless after 150K. Have an '00 SR5 Tundra AC pushing a quarter million miles now. New timing belt and suspension recently, but otherwise solid as a rock as well.

A little concerned about what I'm reading here so welcome any advice.

TIA!

EDIT: I just found what I think are good photos of the issue on an older thread, but if not or if you have any additional advice I'm all ears! I think I'm looking just beyond the top of the front shock towers? Thanks!

https://www.tundras.com/threads/ple...tower-seal-recall-petition.22500/#post-539227

 

The '14 CM Ltd wasn't my cup of tea, so we're going to test drive a '14 CM 1794 tomorrow. It's a private party and he had the truck detailed, including the engine bay, about three weeks ago. Hopefully that'll be long enough for any leaks to start showing again.

 

I definitely have some seeping going on. I spotted it while draining the coolant from the block. I've watched a YouTube tear down of this engine. The head/cam designs are not trivial. I'm not going to fork out $1000s so an overworked tech can go deep into my engine to fix an inconsequential oil leak.

I'll watch for it to become a problem, until then...

 

Give it a couple years. The TTV6 will be more economical and durable than our old 5.7’s.

 

I don't know of any instances where a turbo'd engine has proven to be more durable than a naturally asparated engine with similar performance numbers.
It would be awesome if this turns out to be the case though.

 

I'm under warranty and felt the same way. I changed my mind yesterday and was at the dealership this morning. Parts being ordered and it'll take three days to do both sides.

Oil is about to drip off the heat shield and make things stinky. Six months left on the powertrain, so it's time to fix it. It only took four years to decide.

 

I just had the cam tower leak repaired at the dealer. Glad I bought the extended warranty. I found it when I pulled the wheel skirt back to drain the engine coolant from the engine drain on both sides.

 

I have a '13 Sequoia with 136k. I bought a warranty that is expiring so had it checked by the dealer and they found seeping on one side. I do 5k oil changes & never have to add oil so it is very minimal, should I let it go or have it done seeing as there seems to be many horror stories of poor work causing issues after the repair?

 

I have a '14 Tundra that is leaking on both sides. Its not a signifcant leak and I've been driving it that way for 40K miles. I prefer not to have the thing torn apart and feel like I will just run into more issues after the repair. Not fixing it unless it gets really bad...I guess its your call

 

I'm very aware (I thought) of my tree's needs & was unaware. I feel like it's an if it ain't broke don't fix it deal. The dealer says they do alot & their lead will be doing the work. I'm torn.
Thanks

 

yeah, only you can decide. If you go for it, good luck!

 

Could ask them for the cost to do it and decide if you would rather pay that out of pocket if the leak gets worse down the road or potentially replace the truck in the near future if they mess something else up during the repair.

 

My problem is I have the truck where I want it. Short of a 2018+ with a SC it can't be replaced (for what I am into it for)

For those that are not familiar, I have an 18+ cluster & 18+ lights, 95% TRD PRO etc. The cluster was the pita and I sold the original cluster so that would be a problem. It really is barely moist on teh "bad" side, I never have any oil on the ground & the truck is as I said the truck is 99.9999% "done"

I almost wish I had not taken it in.

lol

 

If its not even leaking bad enough to drip on the heat shield, there is absolutely no way I would mess with it. My $.02

 

It is barely seeping, there is no actual liquid I can see. It's just a little dirty. Thanks, I'm living with it. The year warranty is a joke seeing as it will be much longer to go bad most likely (unless they do a severely poor job)

 

They won’t fix it if it’s not super bad they will put it off

 

I have an extended warranty, it expires 4/8, they want the money. It's now or never. I am letting them do the upper & lower control arm bushings.

 

Do it. Have them do both sides

 

I've been dripping on the heat shield for about 30k miles. Slow seep from the driver's side. Now there's enough to drip off and I think it's going to become a problem.

I have a 2018 with 34k miles. I've debated this repair since 5k. Dealership was ready then to fix both sides, but I hoped it wouldn't get worse. Truck goes in on Tuesday because the powertrain warranty expires in September. Three days. Makes me sad because I worry it won't be the same. But I want the new Magnuson s/c. This needs to get fixed successfully first.

 

Dropped off the truck this morning. I was at the topper place at 8:00 am to have them pull my Leer shell off and store it until the truck is fixed. Dealership says at least three days for both sides.

 

Mine is going this afternoon, I have the SC & want it to stay happy.

 

Not bad at all one side for me was 2 weeks

 

Dropped the Tree off to get the warranty work done, first time it isn't sleeping at home, they grow up so fast.

They claim I'll get it back Thursday.

They gave me a '23 Tacoma.

 

Good luck. I'm driving my Tacoma. Like the Tree, it has a little boost.

 

Got a 2018 with about 85k miles and I believe I've got this issue going on. I didnt realize it was a cam tower issue, but after reading this thread I believe that's it. It's definitely leaking enough to drip off the engine and fall on the heat shield. I discovered this while installing new coilovers a few weeks ago. This is a photo from the passenger side, not sure about the drivers side.

 

I really hope I get the tree back today. The Taco is nice but it's small, the cupholders are a joke its motor is buzzy & the brakes are touchy.


My Tree has 2 cupholders there my 36oz Yeti fits.

 

Dealer sent a pic of the open head, looks new! I

 

welcome to the crew. Mine looks about the same (not quite as bad) and hasn't got worse in 40K miles. Hoping it stays that way.

 

Picked up the Tree, all well, no new sounds & it runs fine