CAM SHAFT TOWER SEAL LEAKING ** PLEASE READ***

Yeah not to thrilled about it, things just don't go back together like factory once removed, all the little clips and what not are usually one time deal and loose if you reinstall. I do agree pulling engine would be best way but jeez.

I read on another forum where they thought it was an issue with movement in that area, your asking a lot of FIPG type sealant to keep things from leaking there. I cant imagine that the cam tower bolts would need re torqued so quickly, my truck isn't even a year old yet.

Dealer called today and my parts are in for the repair so looks like she goes under the knife next week.

 

you'll be fine. Master Tech will probably tackle the issue.

 

Called today and made appt. Truck goes in March 5th. He said they like to start it in Monday in case they Need to order any extra parts. I asked if they would be resealing the driver side as well And he said they are only repairing the passenger side. Seems like a waste to me if the motor is out, both sides are prone to leaking.

 

Ya don’t know why they wouldn’t do both sides. Only make sense if they do.
They are pulling your engine out?

 

have them do both sides or just wait til the other side is leaking. Especially since they are pulling the engine out.
Both sides will eventually leak.

 

My truck is in the shop for this right now. They are doing both sides on mine even though only the driver side was leaking. Seems dumb to only do one side.

 

Yeah They are pulling the engine out, I asked him on the phone if they were going to repair both sides and he told me no. He said they will only repair the passenger side that's leaking. Seems dumb to me so in what another 10-20k engine has to be pulled again to do the driver side, makes zero sense. Once they are already into it I don't think its much work to take the driver side cam tower off and reseal.

Did they pull your motor for this repair? On yours the driver side was leaking, seems like only a matter of time for me. How many miles do you have?

 

I am not sure on the pulling the motor part. I didn't think to ask that. I just wanted to make sure that they were going to do both sides.

Yes, the drivers side was leaking. I could actually smell burning oil every so often so I think it was leaking a decent amount of oil. I never noticed anything on my passenger side but I guess it could have had a small leak. I have 49k miles on my truck so I am a little nervous about future issues from this.

 

I lost 1/2qt so far in 6k miles so mine is leaking pretty decent on the passenger side. I'm in the same boat as you with being nervous about the future, this is a very significant repair with a lot to remove and re install. Have you contacted Toyota yet about a warranty extension?

 

some of us have 40,000 miles + on the truck after repairs with no issues.

 

No, I have not. I think I am going to at least try that though. Not sure if I will have much luck but its at least worth a shot. This is my first Toyota so I am a little disappointed about this. I would have expected this issue to have been fixed in the 11 years since this engine was released. None of my domestic cars/trucks have ever needed the engine pulled/top end removed. They did have little piddly issues but nothing like this. Hopefully this fix is permanent and I wont be shelling out 1000s to fix this issue again in another 50k miles.

 

My engine never got pulled, that’s what they told me anyway. I guess everyone does it differently eh.
My fix was almost 20k miles ago and she runs like new. Knock on wood lol.

Really wished you can get them to fix both side at same time, only makes sense.

 

Good to hear that.

 

I just had my 2010 done a few weeks ago. I found out after it was done they removed the cab to do the work.

 

I agree, what are we talking like an extra hour to keep a customer happy and not having to pull the engine again. I mean we all know that the driver side will fail its only a matter of time. My guess is the dealer is only going to fix what Toyota will reimburse them for and if its not leaking then they wont get paid. No way I'm coming out of pocket to have them fix that side, not my fault Toyota cannot build an engine that doesn't leak oil. I will try to ask Toyota corporate about authorizing the dealer to fix the driver side when I call about extending warranty coverage.

 

Everything go well with your repair? They fix one or both sides?

 

Im just still amazed that a mechanic can reliably fix the problem that toyota has had for how many freaking years now... A human applies the sealant by hand is more reliable than the computer at the factory..
the more i think about this the more pissed i am that mine is leaking!

 

I agree seems odd Toyota would not fix this at the production level. We are told its a factory robot issue applying sealant, it could very well be a design flaw and that's why they haven't fix the issue. If that's the case my guess is we wont see the 5.7 in the next gen Tundra or they will make a design change to this area of the motor. The fix to me really seems like more of a band aid, some of the fixed ones I have seen it looks like a 5yr old gobbed on sealant. Its like they are trying to make it work and its not really a true fix.

 

poll here..pls vote

https://www.tundras.com/threads/who-does-not-have-a-leaking-cam-tower-seal.21843/

 

@trdlife may know about the need (if any) for re-torqueing the bolts!

Maybe the oil/ additives are slowly eating away the sealant!

 

I’m at 170k and both sides have been leaking since 110k-120k, somewhere around there. Sounds like I should have called corporate a long time ago... I’ll try to take a pic later and post it, mine makes every pic posted here look like a joke... might try to call corporate and see if they can do anything for me. I bought it used in 2013 with 59k miles and at 97k they replaced the water pump and fuel pump. I would like to assume if it was leaking then that they would have done the right thing and fixed it but who knows...

 

All of these are my driver side, crappy pics buts all I could get for now. I live down a dirt road so I’ve never been one to clean my engine bay which is why there is so much dirt. But reading this has me thinking I should clean it to truly see how bad mine is leaking. What do y’all recommend to clean it up with?

 

For torquing the bolts yea the cam housing has a specific torque sequence I follow. As for actual torquing I definitely always do the cams and chain guides by had and double check, then I rolled the engine by hand several times to double check timing, and to see if i kick any rockers out( it happens) then the actually timing cover and valve covers and such, I run them down with eletric impact then go back to every on by hand.

As far as oil additives and such, I do not put them in mine, and other than like a bottle or Lucas here and there, I don't recc them. Its not too far fetched that some additives could eat away some of the gasket or affect it somehow.

I still think the biggest problem is the way it was applied at the factory, we had a similar issue with the 2GR engine for years.

 

Yea everyone does it differently. I don't have post lifts so pulling cab is not an option for me. I do them in truck, or if the rear main plate or crankcase is showing any sign of leak, i will then pull the entire engine. I do both sides, every time.

 

Yea warranty times really hurt us on this one. They used to pay decent, I would get about 15hr for both sides with was very good for me. Now they have cut the time in half on us down to 8hr roughly, where mithchell time ranges anywhere from 14-20 hours depending and that yes makes it rougher, and can make the tech feel rushed, after all we make money by hours, myself and i know other have filed time adjusted with Toyota to raise the times back up but prolly not going to happen.

If the tech hasn't done one or they rarely do them, yes it can very well take 1 full day or longer. Like myself i do 99.8% for my dealer, and yea naturally i have gotten faster, you have to to keep up, and now that i do them, they all come to me so when you have one, it doesn't just get scheduled with the shop its with me so, i usually make sure i can have them for 2-3 days so i can get to it and fit it in around my workload and at a time when i can stay on it and not be bothered.

 

That's what my dealer did, they made the appointment based on the guy who is used to working with this issue.

 

So Trdlife, hoping to put my mind at ease over this issue that I am experiencing and it sounds like you know all about it and have done a bunch of them. Would you be concerned of a 2017 with only 8k miles having this done and effecting the longjevity of the engine? Also, is this a permanent fix or temporary and expect it to rear it’s ugly head again in another 50k??? Folks opinion like yourself with hands on expertise means a a lot.. My passenger side is weeping at 8400 miles, waiting for it to get a little worse but Veery concerned about cracking a new engine apart at such low mileage and the issues that may create.

 

So Trdlife, hoping to put my mind at ease over this issue that I am experiencing and it sounds like you know all about it and have done a bunch of them. Would you be concerned of a 2017 with only 8k miles having this done and effecting the longjevity of the engine? Also, is this a permanent fix or temporary and expect it to rear it’s ugly head again in another 50k??? Folks opinion like yourself with hands on expertise means a a lot.. My passenger side is weeping at 8400 miles, waiting for it to get a little worse but Veery concerned about cracking a new engine apart at such low mileage and the issues that may create.

 

No I would not be concerned, about opening the engine, up, i have unfortunately had several(not tundra specifically) opend up with very low miles, and they have stayed together since I did them. The black fipg we use when we fix this is great I have not had any return(cam cradles, timing covers all engine) for leaks after I re-sealed them with it. Applying the sealant is key, it has to be completely dry and and wiped of oil residue, which all master-techs do which that's who would most likely do your repair.

Now on another note, Toyota has gotten very picky on what we can do or when we can re-seal it, Getting it in and at least having it documented as a leak while you in powertrain is important. Now they may clean it off first and have you come back next oil change to check severity, that's usually standard procedure. Just go with it, i know it sounds dumb but it's what they makes us do, or they may just do it there.