Cable for left side driver door on 2004 Tundra double cab

The other day I went to open the driver side front door on my 04 Tundra double cab and I felt a click and could open the door. I immediately thought it had to do with the inside lever/latch so I ordered the part. Well it turned out to be the cable (I'm assuming its for manual open) because I can only open the door from the outside only. I took the door inside cover off and when I looked it has two cables. It seems like it has small tip in the shape of an "L" that attaches to the lever. Well that cable seems to have broken where the "L" connector is on the tip of the cable itself. Does anybody out there know the exact part number? The remote lock works so I'm assuming the other cable above the one that broke is for electronic control of the latch unlock/lock. That one works fine. Anyway, I appreciate anybody's help in this.

 

Sorry, first sentence should say, "and could not open the door." Meaning I have to reach my hand outside the window and open the door from outside handle. Hope this clarifies any confusion.

 

Gimme a pic, I'll do my best to get you the part number. Or you can just use this info to find it yourself, which is a good exercise and probably faster for you than taking and uploading a picture: https://www.tundras.com/threads/howto-use-the-toyota-parts-system-to-find-order-parts.113808/

 

#4 in the diagram below?

69760-0C020

 

#3. Where did you find that diagram. Thank you so much!

 

69710-0C020

As for looking up diagrams, definitely give that link Shifty gave a read. The process I use is outlined by him.

 

Will do. Appreciate you all.

 

Ok, so I ordered a cable that had same part number but one end it has the elbow and other end is more like circular. Did I just get shammed with wrong part?

 

Possibly. Where'd you order from? If scAmazon or fleaBay, yeah, you probably got boned.

 

For my 04 DC LTD, the ones below match what I have color wise....grey upper, green lower.

 

Thanks BubbaW! After I replaced the broken cable the door was having issues staying locked so now I'm just going to order the whole door lock assembly with cables and all. At least I learned how to get it out and what parts need to be taken off to get the whole door lock assembly. Any thoughts of where I can buy for good price? Toyota dealerships can be pretty pricey.

 

So I replaced my whole latch assembly and it came with brand new cables and rods too. DCs and Sequoias actually share front doors -- their latch fits on our trucks but is cheaper than the Tundra part number. I just had to switch the lock actuator motor but that was easy.

I bought it for around $131 with free shipping from this dealer. https://parts.lewistoyota.com/p/63296568/693040C010.html

 

Thank you, des2mtn!

 

des2mtn, I just got off the phone with a Toyota dealership here in San Antonio and he told me that the part you gave me wasn't correct for my vehicle. Sometimes I wonder about these dealership parts people.

 

I mean, there's a sticky thread that shows you how to look up the exact part for your truck.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/howto-use-the-toyota-parts-system-to-find-order-parts.113808/

But if you don't want to read that sticky, here's the pertinent part you need, your part will be under Body & Interior, likely inside the FRONT DOOR LOCK & HANDLE subsection, where you can click on 'see larger pic' or whatever and click directly on the part you need:

I'd recommend using another website to drill-down for the correct part number, then bring that part number back to the Toyota Parts site. Info on part drill-down is here:

• Visit this site: https://toyota-usa.epc-data.com/tundra/
• Plug your full VIN# into the search box and click SEARCH; this should return parts only applicable to your vehicle's factory config (cab type, drivetrain, colors etc.)
• Click on the parts grouping you want to investigate from the 4 options returned, i.e. 'Engine', 'Electrics', 'Body & Interior', 'Transmission' etc.
• In most cases you'll be given some high-level exploded diagrams ("Schemes"). Scroll down to find the exploded schematic with your area of interest, and click on it; if there's only one schematic showing, skip to the next step.
• In the final scheme you're reviewing, either (A) click on the reference number pointing at your part in the picture, noting that "RH" and "LH" refer to right-hand and left-hand parts, where applicable, or (B) click on the part description link to the right.
• Review any notes or details on the final parts page, especially if there are multiple part numbers; for example, with interior parts, you may find color designations like "MD GRAY", "OAK", or "FAWN" for the part color. Use your brain, some may be in shorthand.
• After you're confident you have the right part number, plug it into the https://parts.toyota.com system and check for local dealerships to see what the discounted pricing is, or just order it from McGeorge Toyota since they have some of the best online pricing nationally.
• Pro tip: If you need a sanity check, sometimes searching the part number in Google Images, and even in fleaBay will give you visual confirmation of the part. It may help to search for (A) the part number in quotations, or (B) removing any dashes from the part number, or (C) a combo of both A&B.

If all else fails, or the price just seems too goddamn high for your palate, check out McGeorge Toyota's online storefront. They have some of the deepest parts discounts nationally, but note: They have three separate storefronts! Two of those DO NOT use the new Toyota Parts system, and all three will give you different discount levels! Be sure to give them your VIN also so they can confirm your part is correct.

Whatever you do, and I cannot stress this enough: DO NOT trust scAmazon or fleaBay or WallyWorld's websites for legitimate OEM parts. They're breeding grounds for fraud/counterfeiting these days. This is especially true for hot-ticket smaller items like spark plugs, coil packs, and anything electronic.

Good luck, happy hunting, hope this thread saves you a few bucks.​

 

Yeah, that part number says it doesn't work according to their system and that's all they know. If you had an access cab, the part number would definitely not work.

The part number their system says is compatible with double cabs is probably 69040-0C020 ($256) latch assembly which includes the lock motor. Their system also says this part number is compatible with Sequoias.

Even Toyota's website gives conflicting info on the part number I gave you. In one section (probably linked to the same compatibility system the parts guys use), it says the part does not fit. However if you scroll down a little bit it says it fits a Tundra too in the description.




The website @Shifty' linked also says it fits.

 

Just looked at my McGeorge order from 2 yrs ago for my 04 DC LTD, driver side was indeed 69040-0C020 and passenger side was 69030-0C021.

 

Thanks. You were right about the part being 69040-0C020. I installed it and it works great. Now only issue is sometimes I have to really slam door hard to get it to shut. We think it might be the door is off-set or something or may have to take door off and tighten some bolts that hold door in. Any thoughts on that? Btw, at least now I don't have to put my window down to reach out and open door from inside. Thanks for all the advice. Really helped.

 

Latch position in relation to the U-catch and/or single post (however your truck is equipped) is critical to proper closing. I don't see the hinges sag on these trucks over time like on other trucks I've owned though (88-98 GM trucks were the worst).

But to clarify, the *only* thing you changed was the cable? You never loosened the latch? And this problem didn't exist prior? I only ask, b/c most doors, the latch mechanism typically has a little play in it, you can get a couple millimeters of vertical/horizontal adjustment out of them for strike alignment.

 

Shifty, to your response...I changed the whole assembly. All the way from the inside latch handle, both cables, and all the way into the door with the entire assembly, electronics and all. When you refer to the U-latch, are you talking about the one that is mounted on the door frame area? If so, maybe I need to loosen and then tighten? That kind of makes sense especially if I have removed the assembly inside of the door. I just remember when I was dropping off my truck at the port in Puerto Rico to be shipped to US, one of the guys opened the door with some strong winds going on and it flung open pretty hard.

 

Look carefully at how the latch assembly in the door frame is hitting the striker it latches onto. See if it's hitting it high or low.

I don't have a DC, I have an AC so I'd need to see the latch side of your door. Usually, on many vehicles I've owned, that latch mechanism has some play available. If it's striking low, you can loosen the screws, shift up the latch assembly 1mm-3mm, then tighten it down in the higher position, then test.

This may not be true with the DC, again, I haven't looked at it, and I'm coming up empty looking for pictures of the latch assembly in the door.

In some vehicles it's not possible to adjust the latch mechanism, instead, you adjust the strike. My previous pickup was that way, but it used a single center-post style strike, you loosen the center post, slide it up/down, then re-secure so it's hitting square in the latch.

 

Found a pic.

Doesn't look like the latch assembly has much ability to adjust. I may be wrong, maybe loosen the screws one turn and see if you can adjust up/down as needed. If not, adjust your focus to the strike, and seeing if you can loosen the fasteners one turn and shift it up/down as needed. Don't over-loosen!

​

 

Thanks, shifty. I will work with both to see which one may be off. Since I have changed the latch assembly maybe that would be first place to check. I'll loosen up those torque screws a little and then go from there. Thank you for the suggestion! I will make sure I post results.

 

If you got the latch assembly used, unless I read that wrong above, It may just be a discrepancy carried over from the donor vehicle.

Every door on every truck is hung differently, and the hang can be adjusted at the hinge (but not on our trucks) or using a 2x4 to bend the hinge into place, which probably sounds nuts, but body shops do it.

Likewise, the strike is often adjustable for exactly this purpose, and the latches won't always be geared the same, so ... maybe the latch on the donor was adjusted a little higher or lower to compensate for manufacturing variation?

 

Definitely will take that into consideration. Seems like striker will be first start.

 

Ok, so adjusted a little and then what I observed is that the little u-latch within the assembly unit (has like a plastic coating on the sides of it), if I move it a little to where it is up a little when I close the door then it catches fine. However, if I just open the door and don't adjust it manually with my finger, then next time I close the door shut I have to slam it real hard. Any thoughts? Maybe some oil to keep it lubricated?

 

I would shoot some lithium all up inside and latch/unlatch several times.

 

Cool, will get some from Lowe's or Home Depot today.