Brakes

I'll be replacing with OEM when needed. Just clicked 60k miles and they still feel like new..

 

I checked prices at Sparks Toyota and was a little surprised at the $100 for shipping I assume maybe it's the weight of the rotors. So I figured I could just get them from my local dealership and save shipping. Unfortunately even with $100 in shipping, sparks still saves me about $120

 

I believe it, I've had good luck with sparks.

 

Last question (I think) what all "extras" will I need.
From what I've read it looks like the brake pads come with just the pads.
Do I need to buy the anti squeal shims? Or just reuse the ones one there?
Anti rattle clips?
New pins and springs?
Brake lubricant?
Anything else?
Never done brakes before, but it looks easy enough and have a buddy that can help me if I need help.

 

O E M

 

Yup shipping goes by size/weight and our rotors weigh a ton.

I think my local stealership rotors were about $120 each, Sparks was the same or very close.
I bought local.
I would NOT pay $100 shipping.

 

My OEM FACTORY pads did NOT come with shims.
I reused old ones.
The squeal tab pad goes on outer spot on the caliper, not inside facing the engine.
Reuse holding pins, just be careful and don't bend them up or put them in backwards like I did to one of mine
Brake lube for the pins, sandpaper or a grinder to clean them off.
Brakeclean for removing oil from the new rotors and brake area in general.
Maybe PB Blaster if your bolts are crudy/stuck.
A high enough jack, with stands.
Muscles.

 

Sparks was $80 for rear rotors and $64 for front. Local dealership was $113 for each rotor. Sparks total was $420 for everything and then they gave me a 30% off shipping so$490 for everything. Local dealership total was about $620 just for the parts so even with the high shipping, I'm still saving a bunch.

 

Thanks

 

All good tips. I would also recommend a brake caliper tool to compress the piston in. The new rotors and pads are thicker so you'll need to compress it in to fit properly. And it may be a good idea to bleed the brake fluid also.

 

Just use a big c clamp and the old pads to push the piston back in. No need to buy a caliper tool. Agree that it’s a good time to flush the brake fluid.

 

Thats what I forgot!

Yes either a big C clamp, a caliper tool, or small prybar/big flathead screwdriver, and effort.

Thanks for catching that guys, very important

 

Wow great price indeed!

I was also in more of a hurry for whatever reason.

Are those really OEM rotors for $63? Thats crazy lol.

Why you doing rears?
Those rotors should last like a million miles lol, pads maybe at 100k+ I don't even know?
Depends on towing maybe, I don't currently so.....
My front pads and rotors were like $370. Pads I thought were way overpriced.

 

From what I can tell, yes. They show original $98 and $113 and then the discount. I just assumed the rear needed to be done too. I feel they are almost worthless right now. I had a big icy spot in front of my garage last week. When I backed out and my front tires were on ice and rears were on dry pavement, my rear brakes didn't even slow my truck down at all even at idle.

 

Hella good deal.

I see that price for mine now.
I wish I had waited, coulda saved some money lol.
Ohwell.

If you haven't checked the rears it depends on your mileage, I don't remember if you mentioned it yet?

And do you tow?

If your under like idk 125k miles you could be fine.
Rears usually go 2 or 3 times the fronts depending on driving style and towing.
Fronts can go 50-70k give or take for some people.

Rear brakes are not very strong regardless, that's not surprising.

 

I'm at 90,000 miles. I'm really pretty gentle on my brakes coast a lot instead of gas to brake type driving. I do tow occasionally.

 

You have all the tools and equipment out. At 90 k you might as well do the rears at the same time.

 

So how is the pedal feel with the full setup? Any comments on the pads they include in the kit? Not a lot of info out there on these.

 

You may have been able to save some money on the rear.

I would check them and maybe sit on your parts awhile if they still have usable life left.

Why do more work if you don't have to, it's a pita in my case working on the ground outside my townhouse in my parking space.
If you have a better setup it may not be so bad, but I would prefer replacing when they need it, not just because.

YMMV.

 

I haven't bought them yet, half of me wants to just do the fronts and save some money and the other half of me just wants to do it all at once and get it done with. I guess I could pull my tires off again and take a look at them and see if they really need to be replaced yet or not. I'm gonna have this truck for another 3-4 years so they'll probably need it at some point and with them already having 90,000 on them, I'm leaning towards just doing it all at once unless you guys really don't think they need to be done. The rear pads were a lot harder to get a good look at.

 

Indeed hard to tell from pics, but looks like you are good for a ways still.
Wear tabs look several millimeters from the rotors still.
A really bright flashlight helps for these inspections a lot, makes it clear to see.

Rotors look fine minus surface rust.

I would definitely not bother with the extra work right now, but that's your call.
Rears are also more of a pita with the inner parking brake shoes to deal with also.

 

Rears usually last quite a bit longer. Seems to
Me like I swap fronts twice as often as the rear. Doing your own breaks is an easy way to save yourself money, and Tundras are the some of the simplest pads to swap. Good luck and enjoy the extra money in your pocket!