brakes hit the floor

so my 06 tundra was in the Toyota dealership for a new timing belt/chain and when i got it back the brake pedal now goes all the way to the floor. it stops but I don't have any travel left so a friend of mine who is a retired mechanic helped me try to figure out why and we wound up putting a new brake booster and master cylinder on it. he tested that it pulled a vacuum and blead the brakes several times and adjusted the parking brake and it still goes to the floor. it stops the truck but when i pump the breaks the pedal has resistance, but it quickly goes to about an inch from the floor. anyone have any suggestions of what to try next.

 

What order and what method to bleed the brakes? Did he bleed the LSPV? Did he use positive pressure, or just have you step on the pedal? If he just had you step on the pedal, please tell me you didn't push the pedal all the way to the floor.

 

yes, i sat in the driver's seat and he went around to all 4 wheels as i was pushing on the pedal and when it went to the floor he would go to the next one, is there a better way. what is an lspv, sorry I'm not a mechanic. thanks for the help.

 

Your post, implies the brakes were operational before the Toyota dealership did a timing belt and when you got it back, the brakes were not working. If so, go back to the dealership and tell them. What am I missing?

 

Load sensing prop valve. It should be bled after the passenger rear wheel is bled, then the driver rear, then passenger front, then driver front. I would expect your mechanic friend to know that, and do that.

Did you, at any point, press the brake pedal to the floor, without knowing any better? It's the fastest way to blow out seals and cause similar symptoms. Again, I would expect your mechanic friend to tell you that.

 

i went back and asked them about it and they said there was something wrong with the parking brake on the driver's side and that's why it was going to the floor when i told them it wasn't like that before the worked on it they said it had to be like that.

 

would a blown out seal cause it to leak fluid because its not leaking anyplace i can see.

 

But also, what @chunk said.

Also, do you live in the rust belt by chance?

Did you confirm all vacuum hoses are in place and not cracked?

Have your mechanic friend verify the seals in the original OEM booster and MC. If OK, reinstall them. OEM parts, even with hundreds of thousands of miles, are better than any garbage you'll buy at the parts store.

No, but a blown seal will absolutely fill up the booster and render it worthless. We've seen it happen to more than one person here.

Air in the lines could also cause similar issues, and if he didn't know the correct order to bleed in, and didn't bleed the LSPV, there's a good chance there's air in the system. Positive pressure, like a Motive bleeder is recommended, so nobody does something stupid like push the pedal to the floor while bleeding, causing something to blow out. Your buddy should've put a 2x4 on the floor to stop you from pushing the pedal all the way down.

There's a link to a service manual in this thread, around the 4th or 5th paragraph, along with other links. I recommend to stop now, download it, and read how they do it at the factory/dealership. Show to your mechanic friend, let them follow Toyota's directions. This truck isn't a Ford/Chevy/Dodge, it was a learning curve for me also, coming from a world of GM trucks.

But seriously, have your friend check the old booster and MC, and if it's alright, reinstall it. Return the parts you bought to the local parts store, unless you actually bought OEM from a dealership. Tell them they didn't fit. If I had a dollar for every person on here who bought non-Toyota, non-Aisin, non-Denso parts and installed on these trucks and had problems, I'd be eating out all day tomorrow. A lot of folks who don't know these trucks will say I'm full of shit. What we see here on this forum suggests otherwise. There's some parts you can get away with. Others ... not so much.

 

my mechanic friend has never worked on a Toyota before, I just called him, and he didn't know about not pushing the pedal to the floor. he's going to come by tomorrow and look at the lspv valve with a friend of his that does work on Toyotas, so we'll see if I blew a seal. I didn't keep the old booster, i was going to but my wife didn't get the message and returned it for the core charge. I still have the master cylinder though. would the brake fluid reservoir loose fluid if the booster was filling up. if not, how would i know if that's the case. thanks.

 

Yes, level should go down. But I think it's more like you got air in the system.

Let us know how it pans out. I also see you have a double cab now you updated your truck info. You don't by chance have this setup do you? Little stubby master cylinder with a keg can for the booster? If so ... I think there may be a special process to deal with that little keg can on the side, but I don't know what it is. If you have the big black UFO-shaped booster, disregard.

 

So as usual....make sure your parking brake auto-adjusters are working. Since the parking brake was specifically mentioned by the dealer, I would look into it. (along with everything else mentioned here)

A non-functional parking brake, means non-functional adjusters....which can cause this problem.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/rear-brake-adjustment-theory-and-practice.99575/

 

And as far as the LSPV, and the assembly that makes it work, more info in this video over here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/need-help-abs-fuse.73960/#post-3291307

 

Thinking back now, back in 2018 when I got the rear axles done, I bled my brakes by myself. I pressed the pedal to the floor. Now my booster is full of brake juice. I'm starting to think my seals are bad on the MC. Do they make a rebuild kit or does toyota sell new seals? A new MC is only about $120. Also, how would you empty the booster?

 

There’s supposedly is a kit, but it was felt to be non-existent / unobtainium for a while. Then someone posted about it one day. Can’t remember if it was a kit that would work, or specifically for these MC. Chances are if you did the flooring it routine a few times at a high mileage and damaged your seals, the plunger is pitted and it wouldn’t hurt to just go replacement. I would be tempted to T100 mine if it needed replacing.

 

Yeah, looks like there was one at one time, but now discontinued:



So the other shitty thing, I was gonna go the @shifty` approved route and get an OEM replacement, but:



Unless I'm not looking at the right part, it's d/c as well. I guess that leaves me with one of these:

 

my raybestos MC has been working like a champ for 3 years now.

 

just an "FYI" - if you replace a master cylinder or it runs dry, you need to specifically bleed the master cylinder before you hook it up to the rest of the system and bleed the system. Instructions are in the shop manual, but this is standard procedure for any master cylinder replacement.

And the best way to bleed brakes is with a pressure bleeder. They are worth every penny - https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/brake-bleeder-kits

 

Purchased. Should be here Friday.

 

Honestly, the Mityvac kit sold at HF for $50 is a good buy too. Only downside to the Motive unit is you need a custom adapter to fit over the MC rez.

 

I have a Motive from when I had European cars -- it works really well because the master cylinders on those cars have screw on caps that seal.
IMHO, the Motive is a pretty good deal if they make a kit for your brand of car. Could you do it cheaper if you roll your own? Sure. But I think $70 is a fair price for a complete system that's well made and just plain works. The problem is, they don't make a cap for Toyota/Lexus.

I bought one of these to use on my Toyotas, but I haven't used it yet:

$37 SMOTIVEPRO 43mm Master Cylinder Bleeder Adapter Compatible with Toyota and Lexus

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09SPCSGP9?ie=UTF8&th=1

If I didn't have the Motive, I'd DIY it. I'd get a 1 gallon garden sprayer at Home Depot ($12), cut off the spray valve and adapt the tube to fit the master cylinder adapter I linked to.

 

Their "universal round" adaopter works on Toyotas. That's what I used on my Tundra: https://www.motiveproducts.com/coll...ic-adapters-adapters-classic-marine-universal

 

2.5 stars rating out of 5. And $33 added to an already spendy product. Seems not ideal.

 

It's high quality, it works very for its intended purpose, and it's readily available. I'm not a fictional star that means nothing, but a member of this forum giving an honest opinion from my personal experience working on my own truck. Do you have a cheaper, alternative product of equal or greater quality that you have personal experience using? People on this forum would appreciate that information, so please share.

 

correction - "works very well..."

Also, this adapter, as you noted, is cheaper than the $36 adaptor listed by the previous poster, so I was actually helping people find a cheaper alternative. Thanks for your feedback.

 

I use the

$70 power probe ba10 small adapter for toyota

power probe ba10 adapter iirc. But it's now like 2x the price.

 

Thank you for this positive, meaningful feedback, How does this adapter work? Did you have any problems with it (leaks or otherwise)? Would you pay that amount for it again considering the alternatives considering the drivabiltiy of your truck, and effectiveness of your brakes depended on it?

 

Yes, I do! And as always, I'm happy to share, even for someone who thinks it's alright to come other members here sounding like a 5-year old dickhead with chip on shoulder.

@oscardog86 outlined a much-less-expensive solution that works great. He touched on how to build it from spare parts it in this post: https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1615#post-3186401
You could probably easily make it using a Dorman replacement MC cap which runs around $10.

Here's a similar solution PHM build back in the day, $6: https://www.tundras.com/threads/motive-brake-bleeding.58535/page-2#post-1536220

Took all of 2-3 minutes to find both using search. I can't fathom paying Motive's highway-robbery extortion-level prices for something others on here have repeatedly found "seals like crap" and reviews on scAmazon saying the same, when you could quickly fab something up for a little of nothing.

There are options. Better options. @assassin10000 has also outlined how to fab up a functional alternative to the Motive with a cheap garden sprayer from the big box hardware store. Not gonna look it up. Search is in the upper right corner.

General consensus is, the is a solid buy for less overall cost. Should save at least $20-30. It's more of a pull vs. push system. Motive is nice enough to create a video outlining how to use the product. There's also a cheap hopper-style fluid feeder I've seen that allows you to keep the MC rez topped off as you pull downstream. Mightyvac sells a refill kit to go with it, but you can build a refiller pretty cheap.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uz2efRXIswE​

 

This type of process can be basically free.

https://youtu.be/ag-Q_lP0dOk

+1 that mightyvac is good for a variety of things including vacuum integrity checks.

 

Was it @VR6T that showed using a spray bottle nozzle recently?

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=A9ItBkbYrtA

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=JNJ957hAM1M