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Blower motor replacement

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by CascadeSkyline, Jun 6, 2024.

  1. Jul 31, 2024 at 9:27 AM
    #31
    TnPlowboy

    TnPlowboy New Member

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    2004 Tundra SR5 AC 4.7L 4WD, Tow Package: Blue Marlin Pearl
    The DC blower is noticeably deeper.
     
    Mr.bee likes this.
  2. Jul 31, 2024 at 9:31 AM
    #32
    assassin10000

    assassin10000 New Member

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    Andrew
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    Remote start alarm Removed keyless entry piezo Qi phone charger & dash mount Subaru underseat subwoofer Hopkins Easylift Steering wheel audio controls No-tenna mod 3/4 adhesive anti-rattle shim D/S door
    @Mr.bee do it. For science.


    Plus I'd like to know. So when I get around to installing that 3d printed cabin filter I can upgrade.
     
    Mr.bee and FrenchToasty like this.
  3. Jul 31, 2024 at 9:48 AM
    #33
    KNABORES

    KNABORES Sarcasm incoming

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    BroHon and FrenchToasty like this.
  4. Jul 31, 2024 at 10:02 AM
    #34
    Mr.bee

    Mr.bee King Turdra

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    Hardwire a switch to bypass the knob & resistor or whatever? Be able to crank it to 11 for polo (or science)

    really helped when i blew the vents out & replaced the foam after changing the integration relay. Is the evaporator pull through or blow through? I havent messed with the passenger side yet. Bet the foam seals on that side need attention, too.
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2024
  5. Jul 31, 2024 at 11:49 AM
    #35
    assassin10000

    assassin10000 New Member

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    Remote start alarm Removed keyless entry piezo Qi phone charger & dash mount Subaru underseat subwoofer Hopkins Easylift Steering wheel audio controls No-tenna mod 3/4 adhesive anti-rattle shim D/S door
    Blow through.
     
    Mr.bee[QUOTED] likes this.
  6. Jul 31, 2024 at 11:52 AM
    #36
    Mr.bee

    Mr.bee King Turdra

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    Scared of the work its gonna take once i see a 23 year old condenser. Cause once you're in there, you've gotta do something about it.
     
  7. Jul 31, 2024 at 12:00 PM
    #37
    KNABORES

    KNABORES Sarcasm incoming

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    The evaporator isn’t that hard to clean. I did mine not too long ago. Pressurized spray cleaner and a pump sprayer worked great after vacuuming out the debris with a shop vac.
     
    Mr.bee[QUOTED] likes this.
  8. Jul 31, 2024 at 1:49 PM
    #38
    TnPlowboy

    TnPlowboy New Member

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    2004 Tundra SR5 AC 4.7L 4WD, Tow Package: Blue Marlin Pearl
    Just a few notes on the blower motor replacement with the DC assembly. TMC Part No. is 97103-0C022 is the larger DC fan assembly that fits in my 04 AC. For aftermarket, the VDO PM9213 is a solid and a tried and true replacement choice that lasted about as long as the original. This part used to be sold by O'Reilly's and most recently, by AZ under the Continental/VDO, (and later Duralast) labels [Continental make a lot of parts for AZ under the Duralast brand]. The VDO also used to be sold on Amazon, but no longer. Looks like AZ now sells a PM9213 made by Standard Motor Company (SMC). My guess is anything on the net listed under PM9213 will fit, but who knows what one might get?

    Here are some dimension specs, on the VDO from an online website [Note they also list the DC 97103-0C022 under Part Interchange]:

    https://www.finditparts.com/products/4996125/vdo-pm9213

    Historical fact and trivia - The BM is the first OEM part that failed on my Tundra. I have been running the larger DC version ever since.

    One fitment fail of note: The 4Seasons A/C Blower Motor [Part No: 35202] as a DC replacement on 04 AC model Tundras does not fit. Of course, it was single digit weather when trying to replace, so I didn't mess around with it too long before going in a different direction...lol.

    Removal and Installment Tip of the Day: Removal and installation goes a lot smoother if you remove the glove box door for better access. Just pop of the two tapping screws at the hinge bottom with a PH screwdriver and voila...you can see what you're doing. I believe the three mounting bolts at the bottom can be removed with either one of a 8mm wrench-socket or a small Torx bit. The bolt head is equipped for both options. The one at the back is the most difficult to access...hence the GB door removal. I think I used a 6-in extension straight-on the back and a 3-in for the front and RH bolts. No swivel necessary...or is it too soon?
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2024
  9. Jan 5, 2025 at 2:17 PM
    #39
    Neo

    Neo New Member

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    (See Signature for Trucks Info)
    2002 AC LTD 4x4 4.7 L
    There's a lot of good info here. So, I wanted to build on it. I pulled the blower on this vehicle yesterday because it had been squeaking intermittently. Fortunately, I didn't find a rat's nest, just some caked on dust and a bug carcass.
    [​IMG]
    I tried pulling the wheel off the motor so I could wash it in the sink and also get to the shaft to apply some PTFE Dry Lube. But I started to worry that the 20+ year old wheel would crack. The retaining clip came off easy enough, but the detent tab just wouldn't budge and the wheel seemed molded to the shaft. So, I cleaned the wheel vane by vane with a Q-tip and then hit the whole unit with compressed air. That got rid of the bulk of the dust.
    [​IMG]
    I went to Rock Auto looking for a replacement as an option. The original is (surprise) a Denso part, but there were no Densos listed. Also, I didn't see the wheel available by itself. I did see the VDO / Continental part (mentioned in the post above) listed in the economy section, but it didn't come with a wheel. Summit Racing doesn't list a Denso replacement either. So: 1) Is there a source for just the wheel (in case I break this one); 2) what's the consensus on the next best replacement brand after Denso?
     
  10. Jan 5, 2025 at 2:57 PM
    #40
    KNABORES

    KNABORES Sarcasm incoming

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    Don’t mess with non-OEM. I had one and it didn’t blow as much air and squeaked and whistled. Put another OEM one in and it’s quiet and smooth. Definitely better air flow as well.
     
    Neo and bfunke like this.
  11. Jan 6, 2025 at 7:22 AM
    #41
    shifty`

    shifty` Just like witches at black masses

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    (see signature for truck info)
    This means OEM is your option, buying Denso direct from Toyota. The part direct from Toyota is REALLY not that expensive, last I looked it up.

    Denso made some parts for factory use only. They make other parts for factory and resale/replacement.
     
    Neo[QUOTED] likes this.

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