Bilstein 6112 DIY Install

Hi Folks,

I just installed 6112s on my 2015 Tundra in my apartment complex parking lot using regular hand tools, a jack and jackstands and thought I'd share some lessons learned for those looking to do the same. There are several videos on youtube that show how to install coilovers and spacer leveling kits, of which I viewed several times to get an idea on how to do it. There are also PDF install instructions posted on here for the TRD Pro suspension, which I also referred to. But there are always certain particulars about an install that instructions or a video may not always explain.

Anyway, I know of only three main ways to manipulate the control arm assembly to install these:

1. Separate upper ball joint from upper control arm;
2. Separate hub/CV axle assembly from lower ball joint assembly;
3. What I call the "He-Man" crowbar method;
4. Any other method? (Combo crowbar and lower ball joint separation method, maybe?)

I've only seen the first two methods on videos. I couldn't find the he-man crowbar method on video, although I've read of a few strong and skilled folks actually using this method. I've used this method myself on several 1st gen Tacomas, but their components are much lighter and as a result the 1st gen Tacoma is much easier to work on than our heavy Tundras.

Of the first two methods, I don't know which is faster or easier on the Tundra, since I've only done one method - the 2nd (separate lower ball joint assembly). I initially tried the he-man crowbar method, since it was the only method I was familiar with after having used it with 1st gen Tacomas. But I soon discovered the tension on the lower control arm bolts was such that it was very difficult to keep the control arm assembly down, even with a big, long crowbar, all while trying to wiggle a heavy (at least for me) coilover up and in between the CV axle, tie rod, etc. So I resigned myself to choosing one of the other two methods to separate the control arms enough to fit the coilover in.

I won't belabor the R&R process since there are several youtube videos showing how it's done. However, I will say that it helps to jack the truck up as high as safely possible, using good quality jack stands and a hydraulic jack. This will allow for more room to work underneath. It also helps to not only disconnect the front stabilizer bar from the lower control arm, but to also loosen the two front stabilizer bolts on each side (4 total), so that the bar can rotate freely up and done and allow for a bit more room to R&R the coilover. I don't remember if those two stabilizer bolts (4 total) are on the front frame rails or some cross member. Of course, removing the stabilizer bar completely makes it that much easier to work on the truck, but I was lazy and didn't feel like manhandling it back in after installing the coilovers. I suppose if you plan to run without it, though, then that point is moot. Also, if you have a TRD Pro skid plate, it helps to remove or loosen it enough to access the those two front bolts on each side.

I was also too lazy to remove the skid plate and then have to manhandle it back on. So I removed all the middle and back bolts and then loosened the front ones by the tow hooks to drop the skid plate enough so as to allow access to the front 4 stabilizer bolts. This only applies to those who have a TRD Pro skid plate. I don't know how it would work with a regular, lighter skid plate or if you even have to mess with it since my Tundra never came with one.

Some posts and videos show disconnecting the outer tie rod. I can see how that would allow for even more room and access. I was lazy and didn't bother with that, though.

If you're going to remove the lower ball joint assembly in order to move the lower control arm down enough to R&R the coilover, it helps to loosen, but not remove, the lower control arm nuts (two on each side). I found mine to be on really tight, requiring a breaker or cheater bar for added leverage and lots of strength to finally break them free. I loosened mine just enough to get the lower control arm to drop down with a bit of a push. Once the lower control arm drops and the last stock coilover nut is loosened, be careful when lowering it. It helps to hold the coilover with one hand while removing the last top nut (there are 4 top nuts total). Otherwise, the coilover can drop and possibly cut or damage the outer rubber CV axle boot. Wiggling the coilover out take some finesse and finagling to prevent damage to the boot. Also, with the lower control arm dropped, the hub/CV axle assembly may move slightly forward towards the front of the truck, reducing further the space necessary to remove the coilover. It's kind of hard to explain, but while sitting down, I used my knees to move the hub/CV axle assembly back towards the rear fender a bit to create a bit more space when lowering and removing the coilover. I did the same when installing the new coilover, which was a bit harder for me to do since now I had push it up and work against gravity with its heavy weight. It took several tries for me to get the new coilover in and upwards into the top shock tower. I had to angle it almost sideways from the bottom at first all while trying to avoid brake lines and the CV axle boot.

Once the new coilover is in the top shock assembly, it helps to loosely thread the 4 top bolts of the coilover to make it easier to wiggle the lower shock mount into the lower control arm cup and align the lower shock bolt holes. I used a long, strong screw driver to align the lower shock bolt holes with the lower control arm. I found this part much easier than anticipated with the lower control arm flopping loose. I imagine it would be much more difficult, but not impossible, to do using the he-man crowbar method of pressing down on the lower control arm while simultaneously aligning and then installing the lower shock bolt.

The next step of re-connecting the lower ball joint assembly was much trickier than I thought it would be. I had read of others struggling with this part, and my experience was no different from theirs. I had seen videos and read of others using ratcheting straps to help join the two components together. Although I had ratcheting straps, I couldn't figure out where to safely attach them without risking messing up brake lines and what I assume to be the ABS wires, despite what the videos showed. Instead, I used a hydraulic jack to raise the lower control arm assembly up to join it with the hub/CV axle assembly. I had to jack it up fairly high to get them together. This part was easy enough, but just because the two components were joined didn't necessarily mean the two assembly bolt holes were aligned. Using a big strong flat-head screw driver, I pried and manhandled the assemblies enough so that they finally aligned up to begin threading the two lower ball joint assembly bolts. I threaded the first one loosely to allow for the ability to pry and fiddle with the other side enough to align it and thread the second bolt. Otherwise, tightening down one made it difficult to align the other side, or at least it did with me. I then tightened them both up all the way to keep the two assemblies tightly together. Afterwards, I removed one bolt, applied red threadlocker to it, then re-tightened and torqued it up. I then did the same with the other bolt.

I tightened and torqued everything else up except the stabilizer bar, which I kept disconnected to help with the other side. Once done with the other side, I re-connected the stabilizer bar. Like the lower ball joint and hub/CV axle assemblies, the stabilizer links also required a bit of finagling, but it was still a bit easier. I've read from others that it helps to reconnect the links when both tires are back on and the truck is lowered from the jacks, but I was able to reconnect them by using the hydraulic jack on the lower control arms and jacking them up. It helps to not thread any link bolts in until the links on both sides are equally as aligned as possible. I still had to tap the bolt on one side in with a mallet, though.

Anyway, I hope the above help others thinking of doing this install on their own. It obviously helps if you've had prior suspension experience. Again, check out the videos and TRD Pro suspension install instructions. Good luck!