Bilstein 5100 with Torch add-a-leaf?

Hello all,
Purchased a 2005 DC. Engine and body in great shape only 200k kilometres. Suspension and brakes original lol. Needed everything. On a tight budget, so bought returned parts I could afford. Please don’t belittle what I’ve done because it’s really all I could do on my budget. All new Moog lower control arms, lower ball joints, sway bar links, outer tie rods, rough country N3 2.5” strut assemblies, raybestos e3-discs, drums, pads, shoes, callipers, cardone rack and pinion, cardone cv axles, diff drop kit, torch add-a-leaf.
Issues-
1. Moog replacement ucas, like stock made contact with the strut assemblies which I would have known and not done if I read this forum first. I only did the RC because I got them for $200. I have Freedom Off-road UCA’s on the way. This cost me money I didn’t have.
2. My steering wheel is crooked of course. I centered the rack, but when I was putting it back on I must have turned the steering wheel. Now I have to fix that. Annoying, but can be done. Learned to tie off the steering wheel!
3. The aftermarket SPC camber kits for the LCA’s are terrible. Cleaned up originals and purchased one cam sleeve I had to cut to get old LCA out.
4. Bilstein says the 5100 for the Tundra rear shock is only for up to 1” of lift. Torch says it’s lift is 2”. I have the Rough Country N3 and the 5100’s here. I prefer the Bilstein, but not if it’s going to be stressed with the Torch kit.
5. Getting front and rear diff fill and drain plugs out sucks.
I welcome all constructive comments and suggestions on all of this! Please help me! I’m doing this all on a slanted driveway7

 

Realistically, with the age and use of these trucks, you'd be better off getting replacement leaf springs.

Members here have reported wildly different heights with the same add a leaf kits regardless of brand and some have reported no added lift at all after install

 

Also moog is not the same company they used to be.

I would replace the lower ball joints with oem for peace of mind

 

Thanks for your responses.
I can’t really spend another $1,000, so at this point I probably need a different solution than changing lower ball joints and springs to new OEM.
Anyone else have any experience with Torch and Bilstein 5100’s?

 

The springs don't have to OEM just the bill joints

 

Nobody replying in this thread is trying to belittle you. They're trying to warn you about a common mistake folks make out of sheer lack of knowledge with one specific part replacement. It was such a problem Toyota actually had to recall on their original design, because it wasn't beefy enough.

OEM lower ball joints are important and don't cost that much more. $130/ea I think? It's the single part everyone that's seen a failure in the wild will tell you to NEVER compromise on, because it's the Achilles heel of the 1st gen suspension. Toyota knows this, and over-engineers their lower balljoints to compensate. Most aftermarket suppliers DO NOT over-engineer theirs, not even MOOG - who, by the way, had a pretty serious recall on their lower balljoints less than 2 years ago. Like Noah said, "not the company they used to be". They sub out their part manufacturing these days.

Don't believe us? You end up seeing lots of pictures and posts from folks like , , this, this, this, this, this, this, this and .... I'll stop there despite a plethora of other pics. It's so commonly-known you'll find window stickers all over the internet "OEM or DIE" emblazoned over balljoints. There's a lot of non-OEM you can get away with. Lower balljoints is NOT one of those things. Why you gonna spend all the money you did when there's a pile of evidence so large, to save a few bucks, because you didn't know?

The main problem is a failure of the truck owner to listen, just look at that comment in the 2nd link above, same as many threads/posts you'll find"... I am writing this post to reinforce the warning that I did not listen to" -- I get it ... people don't want to hear about making a bad choice, but you gotta know, people like me can't just rapidly bust out a list of links to examples on something that's not such an obvious, glaring problem...

But you do you. People have had their aftermarket LBJ's fail in less than 5k miles after install. And it did a hell of a lot more damage than the couple hundred bucks you'll spend installing OEM LBJs today, before a failure.

 

I’m not feeling belittled. I listen. I am simply trying to find solutions I can afford. The threads you posted actually support the use of Moog (at least the first one), but I am looking at if I can find OEM. What aftermarket springs do you all suggest? Anyone have any opinion on the 5100’s with 2” rear lift?

 

I’m finding some OEM for about $250 USD for the pair. Can I reuse my bolts?

 

You do NOT want to use Moog lower ball joints. They will fail quickly and cause you additional money and possible damage to truck.

For the rear, I would wait until you can afford new leaf springs rather than waste money on add-a-leafs. Those are just a band aid. There are affordable after market leaf packs available from companies like General and ATS. If you do a search on here you'll find a lot of different reviews.

 

Are the bolts new or original? Ideally you want to get new bolts.

 

Just to be clear. I already have the Torch

$190 add-a-leaf kit for 1999-2021 toyota tundra - 21.5" short AAL set with isolator pads and square bend u-bolts

add-a-leaf kit. I can’t return it. I will use it either way at this point I guess. I will also look for springs in the meantime I guess.

 

The OEM LBJ’s don’t come with bolts. I have the original OEM bolts.

 

If the thread I posted gave you the advice that it's OK to use Moog LBJ's, let me know where. I wrote it, and I need to correct that ASAP. That is absolutely bad info.

 

you’re absolutely right. I was reading another post at the same time and got them mixed up. It was from someone on here, “KNABORES”. I will try to get the OEMs as soon as I am able. Hopefully these will be ok for a couple of months. Changing them at least is not a huge job. Does it change the alignment?
I’ve spent hours on the concrete under this thing now. I sure hope this truck is worth it when it is all said and done

 

Yep, stay away from Moogs. They issued a ball joint recall a while back. Stick with OEM. Buy once, cry once.

 

Just for everyone to know. Everything is already installed except the rear leafs and shocks. I did this on a super tight budget. I appreciate the advice on the LBJ’s. I will replace them in the next couple of months. I drive very little, so that will likely be less than 2,000 miles. My truck is in kilometres, so right now it has about 125,000 miles. I’m pretty sure it’s worth the investments. I do have to put wheel spacers on as well unfortunately as the previous owner purchased Tacoma rims. I am putting on 1.5”. I got the special lugs for the spacers and I think I’ll use blue loctite. I know the geometry isn’t perfect with spacers, but until I can afford Tundra rims this is my lot. One other thing. My parking brake cable is frozen. I can’t seem to isolate the part number. Anyone know it?

 

Ok. Hopefully someone can confirm this
Does 04006-6213 fit the 2005 Tundra 4.7L? It’s a kit with L and R. Lots of people mention it, but parts sites don’t guarantee figment regardless of VIN. Is this because it’s a recall kit and not really supposed to be retail?

 

OEM is the way. But it’s not the only way. Is it worth purposefully taking a chance and buying cheap off brand LBJs? No. Are there other non-OEM ball joints that will work? Yes. Are Moogs any good? Nope, not anymore. Is your truck gonna fall apart? Probably not, but more likely than if you had proper OEM. I myself am riding on non-OEM LBJs. When I finally get around to doing my front wheel bearings I am replacing the upper and lowers with OEM and getting new upper and lower A-arms with new bushings.

 

Wasnt there a 555 ?sankei? Lbj that was supposed to be adequate?

okay, nvm. They seem to be popular with landcruiser guys, but their knuckle has the lbj in compression.

 

There is this thread, which gives some "didn't kill me yet" options: https://www.tundras.com/threads/corner-of-shame-oem-minus-or-plus.122591/

On the wheels ... may just want to keep an eye out on Kijiji, Craigslist, Offerup, whatever for someone clearing out their garage/basement, might find some OEM wheels that are better fit, if that's what you need.

This thread ... you can skip all the lower text, just use the bullet points at the top: https://www.tundras.com/threads/howto-use-the-toyota-parts-system-to-find-order-parts.113808/

That website will give you VIN-specific data. Once you plug your VIN into Search box at the EPC-DATA website, you'll want to click on the "Transmission and Chassis" section. Then scroll to the 2nd image and click on "PARKING BRAKE & CABLE" from the linked list to the right. Then click on "open full size schema" under the picture to see the big view of parts. If you hit a wall, LMK. I think it's important to give you a chance to fish. Sometimes all anyone needs is the right tools and instruction to show you the way.

 

Thanks.
I found the lower ball joint OEM kit in Canada.
Part number 04006-6213. It is a US recall replacement kit. I searched the forum and it is what was used for others when they were replaced on recall. Canada can’t confirm fit because it was a US recall program. Can you or anyone confirm this is the right part? Here is the notice.
http://media.fixed-ops.com/toy_campaigns/70b.pdf
I did a lot of fishing on this one lol

The wheels are brand new. I have 265/70/R17 Nokian Oupost AT which are also brand new. I got the tires as takeoffs. I’d like to keep the tires for sure.

 

Part number looks wrong. Here is the NHTSA report on that part: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2007/RCRIT-07V013-5417.pdf

Parts Ordering
The necessary parts can be ordered through the dealer's facing PDC. Please refer to the table below and the Technical Instructions for part number information. I
Part Number - Part Description - Quantitv
04006-62134 - Front Lower Ball Joint Kit - 1
​

Confirm in that report your VIN is in the affected range before you pull the trigger on parts.

 

Actually, Dave had some interesting comments over here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/lower-ball-joints-part-numbers.97100/page-3#post-2471206

Late '04 - '06 kit # 04006-62134
Early '02 - '03 kit# 04005-21134
Early '01 - '02 kit# 04005-04134​

Oh and if you want to buy individually, these part numbers should be appropriate for your DC '05:

43330-39825 - Right Lower Ball Joint
43340-39595 - Left Lower Ball Joint
90105-A0187 - Fresh Bolts (8 needed)

If you order online from McGeorge Toyota, coupon FREESHIP at checkout will get you free shipping unless you're in Canada, which you might've said you were.

Anyway, there you go.

 

Man. Too many late nights. This is the part number I ordered:
04006-62134
I don't know what that other number is!
It's the kit from the recall notice. It's a program part, so there is no returning it, but it only costs $170 Canadian for me to get it here at the local dealer.
If there aren't different steering knuckles and lower control arms produced for 2005 Tundras which the parts guys confirmed I don't see how they wouldn't fit/work

 

I think you did right, per the recall. And $170 CAD is a steal IMO.

 

Yep. They were $212 a piece up here. I ordered two for $40 less than one. I guess because it really is only a program/dealer part. I built a good relationship with the parts guys up here, so that helps too. The LBJ's are supposed to be here tomorrow, so if they are the right fit I might buy the whole lot and resell them lol. I also ordered the bolts. I can put it all together before I get an alignment as I am getting the cam sleeve tomorrow as well.
I had trouble with the SPC replacement cam bolts even though people here seem to really like them. I don't like how the bolt itself sits in the frame. It was really hard to turn and tighten, and I didn't feel it allowed the arm to sit in the right place in comparison to the OEM. Just found that interesting

 

It's the SPC upper arms we like.

The lower sleeves/bolts I don't like.

 

@shifty` these 90105-A0187 - Fresh Bolts (8 needed) are correct for an 05 dc 4wd?

 

I just pulled the number out of the linked thread, which I believe was posted by an '05-'06 owner. I mean, if it were me, I'd peruse through Spiker's LBJ bolt shoot-out for replacement bolts: https://www.tundras.com/threads/spiker-engineering-lower-ball-joint-bolt-test-1st-gen.111746/

I have it stuck in my head that recall campaign kit OP linked contains bolts though.