BiggHertz - DZTLIMO

You options for front bumper fascia clearance are:
1.Buy new bumper
2.Modify OE bumper to allow you to push the liner forward <- Path I chose for now...
3. Viper cut. - @Deaner713 made a thread with great insights. https://www.tundras.com/threads/viper-cut-mod.113228/ <- Functionality wise, way too many compromises for myself.

@PaulROahu - has a great example.

the 35 vs 37 debate...

Even in my own head, I've asked myself if the step up to 37's was worth it...

Pros:
- Additional "1 inch" of real ground clearance over 35.
- Additional volume within tire allows for lower pressures overall improving small bump compliance.
- Increased radius allows for rolling over obstacles a bit easier.
- Added mass to resist motion, better traction over the washboards at speed.
- Aesthetics.

Cons:
-Increased rotating Mass:
-Reduced Braking Performance.
-Reduced "power" output.
- Weight, My spares are about 125 ea and I carry 2 in a chase rack. So an extra 350 lbs of payload is consumed as is precious bed space.
- No longer fits under the bed for on board spare. Really a bad Idea IMHO off road, your spare could easily un inaccessible if you have a flat or two on rear axle.
- Increased ground clearance can make lifting vehicle more difficult as you may find yourself at the limit of your Jack's useable lifting range.
- Taller tire reduces the amount of up travel as the top of the tire makes contact with the fender apron at compression reducing effective up travel that the suspension can still provide.
- Increased wear and tear on front end suspension components. Tie-rods, rack, etc
- Increased cost.


Whatever selection you chose, make sure you have 5 or 6 of them. Better yet, don't be the only one in the group that has a wildly different setup as you may find yourself in a situation where you need to borrow from a friend when ish goes sideways out in the middle of nowhere.

There are ways to mitigate some of the con's above, but you really should ask yourself if you're in for the total cost of ownership of 37's including everything that goes along with them...

My truck is not a daily and really doesn't move unless I need it to do truck things...but YMMV


-JS

 

If your plan is to balance the need for clearance at the expense of performance, I suggest you re think your strategy.

There is a very delicate relationship between the hub and everything else going on around it...

eg...Use the LCA alignment eccentrics in both out position, moves the hub outwards from the chassis, taking your +25 offset wheel and reduces it down to a plus (25-Y as the offset of the wheel is based of the hub, not the relation to the hub and everything else around it)
or
alignment tech only utilizing the SPC UCA to set caster and then camber, not realizing that your LCA eccentrics are maxed outward in the front and max inward in the rear moving the hubs vertical center line rearwards towards your firewall, your alignment figures "in-spec" but the hub is 25 mills rearward causing you to rub on firewall/body mount etc.


I'm certainly not trying to discourage you, just want you to be aware that you bought a component that is part of a system as such, you tune the system for the desired outcome. Improper tuning of the system will cause you much grief...

-JS

 

Yeah, I have no idea about anything you just said, lol. I know nothing about alignment. The consensus seems to be “+25 is the sweet spot” for fitting 37s with less cutting/modification. And SPC UCAs are loved by alignment techs and makes adjustment possible to help clear 37s. I’m going off the advice of everything I’ve read on this site and I’m still learning. I appreciate any critique you can give because I really have no experience doing any of this.

This truck is not a daily driver but mainly for family camping/off-roading.

 

For sale in phoenix. Your chance to officially turn your truck into a broverlander like you’ve been talking about

 

lol, the intrusive thought of a GFC have crossed my mind more than a few times…

but for the sorry amount of camping I do, i might be a ground dweller with a swag sleep system on top of a cot.

 

How has your rear suspension held up and what if anything would you do different?

 

For everything I have put the truck through thus far…Everything in the rear of the truck has held up phenomenally. I still haven't gotten around to building limit straps just yet but it is a to-do item.

Would I change anything? Prob not.

The shock relocation was a great compromise to enable the widest range of motion within the physical constraints of chassis and drivetrain, the shock choice might change from the 3.0x12 bypass, to a 3.0x12 smoothie. I feel as the truck rear damping would be more consistent as the rear payload varies and you "sit" into the travel, that transition ride zone to bump zone does become closer the heavier the back becomes.

A different option that has recently become available, is the customized @AccuTune Offroad rear shock this is a great alternative to an IVD RXT rear shock, both of which bolt into the OEM pintop and lower shock mount.

Good news is you have options, bad news, you're gonna have to pick

 

Good to read. I’m looking forward to installing this kit.

 

Everything?

 

Well not everything held up perfectly...bombing through the rough stuff at 70+mph, you tend to find out that stuff breaks.

Few good points:
1. you can absolutely tell that the trac bars work over the chop. when the defective part failed it was immediately noticeable in the driving dynamic of the truck. Once I noticed this change, truck went from planted feeling to a lil more jarring and I stopped as safely as possible to investigate. found that the axle side bushing housing gave way and It was dragging. As you can see, it wasn't dragging for long because it really was the polarizing with and without.



2. The support from SDHQ could not have been any better. They wanted me to bring the truck back the next morning to allow them to make sure that everything on the truck was still true and that no damage occurred to the front trac-bar hanger, they inspected and replaced both links without question. Even though I performed the original installation.

So yes, I know that some feel that SDHQ is a bit on the pricier side of vendors, but the products and services they offer are indeed top notch!

A slight hiccup, certainly. I do think they have a positive effect and are worth it.

-JS

 

Truck’s recovery plan getting one of its last major components…



Sooooooon

 

Lies. It’s AI generated. I can tell by the number of cylinders.

 

damn ai, should’ve been more descriptive with my prompts…

 

Wonder if the new Maggie would tuck under that guy

 

It will not

 

#thoon

 

octothorpeteetwoessprep

 

is it prep or is it recovery from teetwopee?

 

Yes

 

After stalking your page I have come to the conclusion that your whole setup is exactly what I need in my life

If I remember correctly you mentioned that the U748 springs were pretty stiff when unloaded when you first installed them. Has the ride quality changed when unloaded now that you've broken them in?

You also mentioned that if you were to do it again you'd run the 3.0x12 smoothies vs bypasses. Is this because you have constant changes in your payload weight, or just solely because you've been loading up heavier than you originally anticipated you would?

I originally just wanted to keep the factory shock mounting locations in the rear with an overload replacement leaf pack but now you've got me convinced the extra fab work is worth it. Picking up my first harbor freight welder as soon as the black friday deals hit stores near me so I can begin my own driveway fabricating journey