BiggHertz - DZTLIMO

Sweet! Still need these myself

 

Schnebly hill, watch out!!!

 

Know someone that ran them, maybe still does. Remind me next time I see you, got a funny story… lol

 

why tease us like that?!?

 

The wish washy, strange rebound feeling in the front end was bad after the Florence run w/ @KevinK , @TRDFerguson and @AT x AT, but after GFF…it was even worse…lol

 

In chatting with Dave, he reminded me that about the Prospeeds. I was on the fence on trying out the Kibbe or the Prospeed Billets, but went Kibbe because they’re using off the shelf urethane bushings…

prospeed’s…

https://www.prospeedautosports.com/products/prospeed-tundra-billet-motor-mount-set

 

Yea I’ve seen kibbe’s and Prospeed’s. Can’t go wrong with anything over the stock units. The kibbe’s look sick. Maybe I’ll give the Prospeeds a try

 

Are these better than Solid?
I have had these for almost a year, they really need to go in.

 

I wouldn’t say that one is better than the other. Just slightly different engineering and manufacturing techniques.

 

Very nice build thus far. Loving all the wiring work and schematics. I’ll have to pick your brain soon about your rock light setup.

 

Thank you, and feel free to reach out anytime.

 

Forward facing lighting refactor:

After destroying my 3rd set of OEM fog bezels, I decided to transfer the Baja Designs Squadron Sports to @Bannock452 's fog lamp plates which is a far more solid of a mounting solution, even on plastic end caps.



Downside is they're not longer operating as a forward facing "fog" lamp and more of a cornering lamp...this is by design.



So in attempts to mitigate this, I chose to borrow my a pillar mounted S1s, bolt them to the sides my 30" onx6 stealth, tie them into the same circuit as the "fogs" and trim lower grille to fit.

Before:



During:




After:



Which yielded a much better near field lighting pattern...




Day:



Night (heavily filtered to capture the "look"):




-JS

 

This looks great @BiggHertz, I've never seen someone piggyback off the OnX6 mounts with S1s but that is a great idea.
Best,
Brandon

 

I know you're just waiting to see what crazy scheme I come up with next...

 

S1s are perfect in so many ways what really adds to the versatility is the ability to index lens to fit the desired application...I had them bolted up to my XL racers for the longest time and they were truly a game changer for a high mounted near field corning setup especially when trying to throw some light over the tall brush...

 

@Baja Designs Brandon,

My only wish would be some other lens options for s1's or s2's. I was scheming on building a removable rear chase bar (including directional indicators) out of an array of 9-S1s, but they only come white/amber, so I looked into 7-s2's, but the colored lenses are only available in spot configurations and I know you have the RTL series, but I like having the control of the function of each indicator group independently.

4 - Red - running(L) & Brake/Turn(H) - via external PWM
2 - Amber - chase - Constant w/dim or strobe control from SP9100 PDM
2 - white - Reverse lights controlled by vehicle.
1 - green/blue - for "I'm a slow boy" indicator if need ever arrises.

Configured in

Red - Amb - Red - Wht - Blu/Gn - Wht - Red - Amb - Red

 

Very cool!

 

Hey @BiggHertz,
One of the main reasons there are not a handful of different colors and lens patterns is heat dispersion and demand. With the S1 light having the LED featured on our XL80 light having a deeper color lens like red will limit the projecting light and over time heat up the housing and lens excessively. Also, the color would not be as true with the output of the LEDs on anything but the S2 Sport model.
Best,
Brandon

 

I know the science, even @memario1214 and a handful of us were discussing thermals of different lens variations at tundras to sedona. It was more of a wishful thinking/rant than a “why don’t you make this” kind of comment.

Everything on the truck is BD, with the exception of rock lights, I love the BD rock lights, but the convenience of mounting KC cyclones with random bolts on the underside of the cab, changeable lenses and cost effectiveness is tough to beat.

The BD rock lamps have the better of the mounting patterns with a smaller foot print and anti rotation provided by 2 mounting points, but the likely hood of having 2 perfectly placed holes on center with the BD lamp is none. Yes, one can use self tappers but most locations are going into sheet metal and pull out/backing is a real thing when beating the trucks to death. Thru bolt, great, but sometimes things are in locations where backsides of the panel are nearly inaccessible. So then there is one of my recommendations…jack nuts/rivnuts for blind fasteners. But higher level of effort and most error prone as the likelihood of getting spacing proper for most individuals can become challenging…

The new Diode Dynamic rock lights are nice and utilize a single center mount bolt too, but they fell short the fact that they used m5 (5mm) diameter bolts for securing to vehicle or bracket. Most underbody is either m6/m8 on modern vehicles. So they should go back to the drawing board IMHO.


-JS
#BD4Life

 

Hey @BiggHertz, I appreciate the feedback about the rock lights. We are always looking for improvements to make on our products and useful information like this is what helps get some of those changes rolling. I will send this information over to my R&D team so we can provide a more competitive option to the market. Thank you for your constant support and for choosing Baja Designs for the majority of the lights on your truck.
Best,
Brandon

 

I even thought about building billet bases that had a rubber gasket for anti rotation (or allow a spacer to help over come irregularities in mounting surface), a recessed opening in the center for an appropriately sized fastener to go thur and properly spaced threaded holes for the rock light thread into. More time then I wanted to devote to said project…lol

 

Were the 1/2” bumper spacers enough to clear your 37s of your front bumper or did you have to trim the bumper too? Sorry if I missed it somewhere.

 

Second page post #36

we are one and the same as far as front bumper question goes

 

a lot depends on wheel and tire along with your alignment.

I’m pretty confident that anybody who will be driving will absolutely need to modify front bumper liner regardless of spacers vs no spacers.

As highlighted by @Shanet421 the below post has some brief details to get you going…If you need further details feel free to ask!

https://www.tundras.com/threads/bigghertz-dztlimo.101679/page-2#post-2614468

 

Thank you!

I will be running 37x12.50x17 with +25 offset, ADS Remote resi’s (up to 4” lift), SPC UCA’s. I just added the Toytec bumper spacers. Still have to get the BMC done. Was hoping I wouldn’t have to cut the front bumper…

 

Forgot to ask, was going 37s worth the effort or would you stick with 35s knowing what you know now?

 

I’ve pushed the front liner as far as possible…have the bumper shims and BMC done. I’m on icon 2.5s with minimal lift to match stock rear suspension. Method 701s 18x8.5 +25 and stock UCA.


I would also not like to have to cannibalize the front bumper to fit 37s. I feel like I’ve prepared as much as possible…time to just leap!

Thinking
Toyo ATIII 37x12.5x18

 

I think having adjustable UCAs help clearing with caster. I ordered 37x12.50x17 Mickey Thompson Baja Boss M/T’s and they run more true to size than others. The Toyo’s also run closer to stated size than others. Could be a bad thing when trying to clear!