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Big 3/4 wire upgrade

Discussion in '3rd Gen Tundras (2014+)' started by joeguam, Jan 31, 2017.

  1. Apr 24, 2019 at 1:42 PM
    #31
    smslavin

    smslavin On a plane...

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    so, i can take the original wire and connect direct to battery?
     
  2. Apr 24, 2019 at 8:11 PM
    #32
    smslavin

    smslavin On a plane...

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    couple more questions. just a bit confused on your images and i want to make sure i connect everything correctly tomorrow.

    in the first picture, at the small red dot, you have removed the cable. in the second picture, it looks like you've made a new cable to go to the battery, yes? is this the same gauge wire as your new cable to the alternator? the stock connector at that location is pretty small.

    also, just to verify, you are now going alternator -> anl fuse -> battery. is the anl fuse necessary? i have one on the route to my amp but do i need one between the alternator and the battery?

    i think i have everything dialed and still have plenty of red cable to make a short from the voltage regulator to the battery.
     
  3. Apr 24, 2019 at 10:00 PM
    #33
    LEKS

    LEKS Truck name “Sancha”

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    I did an upgraded wire there. Removed the factory one and replaced with 2/0
     
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  4. Apr 24, 2019 at 10:04 PM
    #34
    LEKS

    LEKS Truck name “Sancha”

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    I know guys that go straight from alternator to battery, no fuse. I did a circuit breaker in mine because I also did an upgraded alternator (270a). It’s just another layer of protection. 9D1C9AF7-2D87-4DCF-844F-EEF49DDD9EF6.jpg01E0C08D-1DBD-413F-B4F8-33D0BCB3E0C0.jpg
     
    GeneVS, jstrahn, WildCat1982 and 5 others like this.
  5. Apr 25, 2019 at 5:34 AM
    #35
    smslavin

    smslavin On a plane...

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    thanks for the input. an alternator is on the list for me and i have plenty of wire left over. i’ll drop something in there.

    nice job on your wiring. :cheers:
     
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  6. Apr 25, 2019 at 2:49 PM
    #36
    smslavin

    smslavin On a plane...

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    one more question for you as i'm still trying to figure out how to make everything fit. the stock positive cable that has the L terminal connector on it, i believe it comes from the starter, where did you put that? that's the one that is really giving me the most issues fitment wise. i think getting a set of those flat battery terminals like yours will help as well.
     
  7. Apr 25, 2019 at 3:22 PM
    #37
    LEKS

    LEKS Truck name “Sancha”

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    I extended the factory starter wire so that I had room to wire it nicely. One of the two black wires you see on my positive terminal is it, the other black wire goes to the bottom of the fuse box. I believe that’s connected to the fusible link.
     
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  8. Apr 25, 2019 at 3:50 PM
    #38
    smslavin

    smslavin On a plane...

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    what's the best way to do that?
     
  9. Apr 25, 2019 at 4:53 PM
    #39
    LEKS

    LEKS Truck name “Sancha”

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    I went to a local electric supply store And picked up some butt splice connectors. I forget what gauge it was, I took a piece of the wire with me.
     
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  10. Apr 25, 2019 at 4:54 PM
    #40
    LEKS

    LEKS Truck name “Sancha”

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    GeneVS, Flyinryank and smslavin like this.
  11. Apr 25, 2019 at 6:04 PM
    #41
    smslavin

    smslavin On a plane...

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  12. Apr 25, 2019 at 8:19 PM
    #42
    LEKS

    LEKS Truck name “Sancha”

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    Haha, All good man. Sadly I’m in California now . My family is still in Hawaii so we go back pretty often to visit.
     
  13. Jul 10, 2019 at 9:17 AM
    #43
    TruckyTruck

    TruckyTruck Dumbest Username

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    Damn... That is just really clean.
     
  14. Jul 10, 2019 at 10:09 AM
    #44
    birdman076

    birdman076 Bird, bird, bird...bird is the word

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    Upgrading grounds is one of the first mods I do to any vehicle. Learned it the hard way with the older pontiacs and anything dodge lol. Didn’t know of anyone doing a kit so that’s pretty cool. I usually source marine grade wire though through west marine or online as it is typically tinned and decent copper is used.
     
  15. Mar 28, 2020 at 10:37 PM
    #45
    TruckyTruck

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    So with the original system, the voltage regulator controls how many volts get sent to the battery. I've read 13.7-14v depending on engine bay temps.

    What happens when you bypass this and go straight to the battery from the alternator?

    How many volts will be sent then?

    The reason I ask is due to this Northstar battery. You have to keep 14.1 to I think 14.8 volts going to it in order for them to warranty the battery. I bought this little jewel to make sure that happens.
    https://www.hkbelect.com/product/297-mk4-adjustable-alternator-voltage-booster-2013/

    To you guys that have done the big 3, have any of you checked to see how many volts your alternator puts out after bypassing the voltage regulator?

    If not, could I ask one of you to check for me?

    Edit: I may be missing the concept here. So after your power from alt to battery, you then run a smaller wire from the battery to the voltage regulator? Keeping the voltage regulator and fuse in the loop?
    Yep, maybe I better stop reading and go to sleep.
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2020
  16. Mar 30, 2020 at 9:43 AM
    #46
    lonelydriver

    lonelydriver New Member

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    wow thats a huge difference thanks for the writeup
     
  17. Sep 16, 2020 at 8:17 PM
    #47
    GeneVS

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    Well done Joe and LEKS. :thumbsup:
     

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